Patan at a Glance
The word Patan means a beautiful city. It is a synonym used to describe the city of Lalitpur, the oldest town in Kathmandu valley. Within the boundaries of present-day Lalitpur, protected by a diamond mandala, lies the historic Patan. An area which at times feels as if it stood still while the world around it transformed.
The Kathmandu valley has three principal cities: Lalitpur, Kathmandu and Bhaktapur. The founding stones of these territorial divisions can be dated several hundred years before the Lichhavi era. The first settlement created in this valley is Manjupatana, a beautiful town founded by Boddhisatva Manjushri. Historical evidence presents it stretched from Svayambu till Guheswori.
Various other ancient townships such as Bishalnagara, Deopatana, Matilinagrama, Irshyarajya, Yapagramadranga, Dipavati, Bhatgaeon existed but assimilated into the present-day large cities.
The area in focus, Patan, was a title used for an ancient settlement. It laid within a diamond mandala. Its four points are ancient earthen mounds known as Thur. Today they are called:
A. Ibah stupa (North)
B. Lagankhel stupa (South)
C. Imadol stupa (East)
D. Pulchowk stupa (West)
Historians and archaeologists have not been able to accurately date these structures but believe they are from 2-3 BC. They pre-date the Lichhavi period of Nepal.
As per another local legend, the city was called Lalitpatana, a beautiful city created by architect Lalita. Locals believe that the name got shortened to Patan.
Why was this town so beautiful?
Having been founded on the principles of Buddhism, this town featured an ample amount of monasteries. Each locality (twah) had its watershed (pond), well and water spout. The widest street stretched from the entry points of the city (four stupas) and all other roads connected to this main street. A sizeable number of rest houses (pati, falcha) lined the streets. Housing was uniform featuring the same architectural style.
The countryside was khel (pasture) and cremation sites. Areas further away were farmlands and forests.
Materials utilised were clay, red brick, terracotta and wood. Decorative elements included carved wooden doors, windows and items; painting, wall art, metal gilding, statues and monuments.
The towns centre is the ever-glorious Patan Durbar Square. This beautiful palace cortex was home to both Lichhavi and Malla kings.
Today the square is equal to an open-air museum. It holds monuments, temples and structures of a bygone era. What makes this centre unique is the concept of heritage for all. People are allowed to bask and mingle in the temple premises. Plentiful shops and eateries cater to guests all over the world.
Due to the cultural significance of the area, UNESCO included it in its World Heritage list. Apart from the tangible heritage, Patan is home to numerous intangible ones. The most important of which is the ever-present harmony between Hinduism and Buddhism. Inhabitants of this area identify themselves as Hindu-Buddhists. It is a rare scene in today’s world. Numerous scholars have praised the tolerance, acceptance and religious harmony of this city.
The largest festival is of Rato Matsyendranath, also known as Karunamaya. Historians date the inception of this chariot festival to 5 AD.
A five-storey chariot housing the idol of Karunamaya is pulled by devotees and revellers through a designated route.
Patan is also the home of the master architect Arniko. He is a national hero due to his contribution to expanding the art of this valley. In the 13th century, he led the first batch of eighty artists to Tibet under the request of Phags-Pa, the state preceptor of Kublai Khan. Due to his ingenuity, skill and courage, he gained an audience with the emperor. He was impressed by Arniko’s persona, honesty and creative genius.
He commissioned Arniko to built a large monument. Today, it is known as the White Dagoda in Beijing. This masterpiece for centuries has stood as an emblem of perpetual peace and friendship between Nepal and China. He also founded a school of Nepali art where he taught countless enthusiasts the techniques of Nepali fine art.
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Nepal at a Glance
A fruitful adventure isn’t just booking a flight and experiencing a generic itinerary. A skilled traveller absorbs the destination by conducting his/her homework. This allows them to gain an edge, which makes the visit even more fruitful. This article is a compilation of quick facts and helpful tips for your visit to Nepal.
Nepal, at a glance, is beautiful. Small, quaint, yet surprisingly large for a traveller to unearth, its trove of knowledge and serenity shall take one a lifetime to experience.
The thrill of an adventure is always the unknown. But it's good to gather some quick facts and tips about your destination. It shall allow you to truly absorb it, connect with the people better and add value to your trip.
HERE ARE SOME QUICK FACTS AND HELPFUL TIPS
Area: 147,516 km2
Estimated Population: 28 Million (Estimated)
Ethnicities: 103+
Dialects: 93 + spoken languages
National Language: Nepali
Nepali phrases to charm:
Namaste!
Ma (your home country) bata ayeko ( I came from _____ )
Sanchai Hunu Huncha? (Are you well?)
Ramro Cha (It is beautiful)
Dhanyabad (Thank you)
Best time to travel: Specific regions of Nepal can be travelled through out the year while others are best in spring and autumn.
Climatic Zones
Special Climatic Zone: Transhimalayan (Land that falls in the rainshow of high ranges)
The treks that fall in this region are called Transhimalayan trails. Some of these trails can even be traversed during the monsoon season due to low precipitation in the area. However, other parts of Nepal experience rainfall.
Seasons:
As per rainfall:
1.Wet Season (June to September)
2.Dry Season (October to June)
Specific to Nepal:
1.Spring (Mid-March to Mid-May)
2.Summer (Mid-May to Mid-July)
3.Monsoon (Mid-July to Mid September)
4.Autumn (Mid-September to Mid- November)
5.Pre-winter (Mid-November to Mid-January)
6.Winter (Mid-January to Mid-March)
Attractions:
Major Trekking Areas
1. Annapurna Conservation Area
a) Annapurna Round
c) Lower and Upper Mustang Trek
d) Manang Region
e) Lamjung Region
f) Ghandruk Region
2. Rolwaling Valley
3. Everest Region
4. Kanchanjunga Region
6. Manaslu Region
7. Dolpa Region
Major Festivals
1. Dashain
2. Tihar
3. Indra Jatra
4. Rato Matsyendranath Chariot Festival
5. Seto Matsyendranath Chariot Festival
6. Biska Jatra
7. Losar
8. Chhat
9. Janai Purnima
10. Holi
11. Buddha Jayanti
12. Mataya
Major Lakes of Nepal
1. Gosaikunda
2. Rara
4. Tilicho
5. Phewa
UNESCO World Heritage Sites
Museums in Kathmandu
1. National Museum: Located in Chauni, Kathmandu
2. Patan Museum: Located in Mangal Bazar, Lalitpur
3. Hanuman Dhoka Museum: Located in Basantapur Durbar Square
4. Bhaktapur Museum: Located in Bhaktapur Durbar Square
5. Narayanhiti Palace Museum: Located in Durbar Marg, Kathmandu
6. Jyapu (Farmer Community) Museum: Located in Chyasal, Lalitpur
Reliable Cellular Providers: NTC, Ncell
In case of emergency:
1144: Tourist Police Hotline Number (They also have a mobile application, Tourist Police Nepal)
100: Local Police
101: Fire
102: Ambulance Service
103: Traffic Control
197: Telephone Inquiry
Also,
Have the number of your embassy on speed dial
What to wear:
Light clothes from April to September
Warm clothes from November to March
Certified specialized clothes while travelling to the Himalayan region
What to carry:
A raincoat, poncho or umbrella from March to July
Windcheater from September to March
Map of the visiting or trekking region
What to avoid:
Street hawkers, local stores, and street food
Be careful about:
Public transportation, pesky tourist guides, shady trekking agencies, shopping online, being extra-overcharged!
Do not forget to:
Have fun!
Best souvenirs from Nepal:
Good times and great memories!
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Architectural Marvel: Shikharas
Shikhara is a Sanskrit word that means mountain or peak. This architectural style is one of many found in the Indian sub-continent, used to create an altar for gods. An accurate timeline of its introduction to Nepal is unavailable. But, it's evident how we preserved the old and added to it elements from our knowledge and skills. Today, these legendary temples stand in beautiful squares, monasteries and religious sites: amplifying the atmosphere.
Growing up in Patan, the unique temple of Krishna at Patan Durbar Square always marvelled me. As per locals, particularly elders busy discussing politics and indulging children in folk tales, masons carved it from one stone. I was pleasantly surprised! One single stone? To which they added, brought from Kailash, home of Lord Shiva. I was flabbergasted!
Later on, I learned how the story was completely false.
The emergence of this technique is in present-day India. One should not mistake it for Vimana style, which looks similar but is steps to create a pinnacle than a curve. In present-day Nepal, only the Shikhara format in Nagara style exist. This style of Shikhara is North Indian. It has various cousins such as Dravida, Vesara amongst the notables.
Newars took elements from their skills building stupa and pagoda and introduced them to Shikharas. They also began creating variations. They maintained the tradition and also amplified it. A great example of this is the Krishna temple..
Amongst various temples of this kind, the oldest in Kathmandu valley lay ruined in the Pasupati heritage region. The Durbar Squares of Kathmandu, Lalitpur, Bhaktapur and their neighbouring areas feature plenty of temples in this format. Western Nepal also features a few temples in this style erected by Malla rulers.
As per local chronicles and beliefs, apart from the Shikhara's present in Pasupati, the oldest of this style is Matsyendra temple (Karunamaya) in Bungamati. The tale of his arrival into the valley is around the mid- Lichhavi era. This temple collapsed during the earthquake of 2015: reconstruction efforts are underway. The most popular are the Mahaboudha and Krishna temple.
They are called either Degah or Lhwaega. Lhwaega is a term used to acknowledge temples built of stone. Lhwa means stone in Newari. Degah, meaning home of god/ gods, is a general term.
Alike me, countless fall victim to either elders or pesky tourist guides about the material and make of these temples. Materials for their construction include special bricks, red brick, natural or dressed stone and terracotta. Polished bricks used for the facades are known as chika awpa. Chika means oil in Newari, whereas awpa means bricks. Unpolished big bricks are known as maha awpa. The Krishna temple of Patan features stone dressed and jointed tight. Whereas, Mahaboudha is a stunning hallmark of Newari terracotta masonry.
Mahadeva temple and Vatsala Durga temple of Bhaktapur are amongst the finest Newar masonry done in terracotta and natural stone.
A shikhara temple which was the crown jewel of Kantipur (former name of Kathmandu), was restored in full recently. It was the home of Khasarrpa Lokeshwara, established by Lichhavi king Gundakama-deva, the founder of Kantipur.
The temple was ransacked by soldiers from Western Nepal, according to historical sources. The protective deity of the temple, Bhairab, was stolen and established in their city. They also attempted to steal the chef idol, but due to some reason, they threw it at a river junction. During the rule of Yaksha Malla, the statue of Khasarrpa Lokeshwara was rediscovered but housed in another area. The temples original glory was restored by Pratapa Malla. He also dug a pond around it. During the earthquake of 1934 AD, the temple collapsed. The Rana rulers of Nepal built a Mugal dome as a keepsake.
Click Here: To read more on this temple and its deity.
Today, Rani Pokhari isn't just a pond but also a reminder of how things once lost can be revived. Numerous temples in Shikhara format used to exist before 1934 AD. Some are oblivious, while others lay in ruin. These temples should be celebrated by the world, not just as a house of god but as a marvel of architecture.
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Architectural Marvel: Stupa
Amongst the various marvels found in Nepal, stupas are the most marvelous. Envisioned in the Indian sub-continent, they found sanctuary in the valley of Kathmandu. The Newars, native inhabitants of this valley, welcomed this symbol with open arms and took it to new heights. Even the origin of this valley features the foundation of a world-famous stupa, Swayambhu.
The Kathmandu Valley is home to numerous arcane wonders. Amongst them are a series of beautiful monuments and temples created incomparably.
Newar architecture embraced styles such as stupa and shikhara. These have been symbols of religious devotion in the Indian sub-continent for ages.
The native inhabitants took the style further and added their ingenuity. This amalgam gave birth to a unique architectural style known as Newar architecture. Today, the valley and various other regions where Newars settled during their trade endeavours feature beautiful symbols created with these cues.
The style in focus is stupa, a dome/mound structure topped with a finial. The exact origins of this style are unknown, but archaeologists discovered remains of similar structures in present-day India dating back to the pre-Buddhist period. Records also speak of the remains of Lord Buddha (Shakyamuni as per Newar vernacular) were buried by the recipients (seven noble families and the Brahmin) in earthen mounds.
For a layman, these stupa's are nothing more than symbols of a culture. But in reality, they are dome's protecting the remains of an individual or great power. The stupa of Svayambhu, according to various chronicles, is covering the light of Buddha. Boddhisatva Manjushri saw Buddha in his purest form, 'light' emanating from a lotus. Sage Santikar covered the 'light' with a stone and built a dome over it after he foresaw how people would misuse it in the Kali Yuga. Later in the 15th century, the stupa began getting referred to as Adibuddha (the most senior Buddha).
The stupa of Boudha protects the remains of Anshuvarma, according to local legends. He was a king of the Lichhavi era of Nepal. As per Tibetian belief, the stupa holds the remains of Kasyapa Buddha, the predecessor of Lord Buddha (Shakyamuni). The stupa was founded in the 5th century by King Manadeva. It was named Khasa Chaitya as it fell adjacent to the historic trade route to Khasa, Tibet.In Newari, it is called Khasti Mahachaitya, Khasti meaning dewdrop. Locals speak of how the builders faced a water crisis while making the bricks. Thus they spread lines of cloth and left them overnight. They then squeezed the dew in the morning.
If you're curious why I am not adding 'nath' to their names, it's because it was only in the late 1900s that this trend began. It is credited to the influence of Hinduism and generally called Hinduisation, a process of converting non-Hindu elements into Hindu.
The four Asokan stupa's of Patan hold great architectural and historical importance. But nowadays, they are only viewed as landmarks. The only available data on these monuments are through research of Western enthusiasts. Locals believe the Mauryan emperor Asoka built them. Others state it was not him but his daughter Charumati who commissioned them in honour of her father after his death. In general, they are old. Older than Boudha, not older than Svayambhu.
Pioneers such as Arniko, the great architect, developed the unique style of Swetchaitya (White Dagoba). He took with him at the tender age of 16 the glory of Nepalese art to Tibet and further to the court of Kublai Khan.
While trekking Nepal, a traveller might notice stupa's alongside the trail, especially in the upper hilly and Himalayan region. These fall in the category of Tibetan stupas. They might look similar but are not the same. Some hold remains of an individual, whereas others hold belongings, texts, jewels and spells. The family members commission them to assist the ascent of the departed. Today, they help guide the way and protect travellers on their adventure in the Himalayas. Locals encourage a trekker to built a stone stupa for themselves from flat stones near rivers. The belief is, they (stupas) shall be your home in heaven.
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Lakes of Nepal - Part III
An evening at the shores of water with a cup of coffee is bliss unmatched. The flow of water takes with it the vast ocean of thoughts, worries and pain. Time flies, heart sighs, and mind lightens with every drift of the heavenly waters. In the final edition of Lakes of Nepal, we dive into Phewa and its sister Begnas along with the holy Gosaikunda and unearth Dumba, the hidden gem of Mustang.
An evening at the shores of water with a cup of coffee is bliss unmatched. The flow of water takes with it the vast ocean of thoughts, worries and pain. Time flies, heart sighs, and mind lightens with every drift of the heavenly waters. In the final edition of Lakes of Nepal, we dive into Phewa and its sister Begnas along with the holy Gosaikunda and unearth Dumba, the hidden gem of Mustang.
Phewa and Begnas
The valley of Pokhara holds many natural wonders; amongst them are the lakes of Phewa and Begnas. These two, along with Rupa, are the most popular among its eight sisters. Each lake has developed as a major tourist attraction with Phewa is commonly known as Lakeside. Numerous hotels, restaurants, cafes and bars cater to the large influx of tourists who visit Pokhara independently or as part of their trekking itinerary.
The lake's water also used for generating electricity. Commercial fishing in this region utilises cages. Tal Barahi temple, located in the centre of the lake, is an important religious site.
Begnas, on the other hand, is a popular destination for retreats. It has numerous resorts which cater ample facilities to visitors. The lake water irrigates nearby cultivable land. The range of Annapurna and Manaslu are visible from the lake. Whereas from Phewa mountain peaks of Annapurna along with Dhaulagiri range and Macchapuchhre are visible. Their reflections mirror on the surface of the lake.
Gosaikunda
This lake lies at an altitude of 4380 meters above sea level in the district of Rasuwa. It is one of the holiest lakes of Nepal. Pilgrims visit this lake during the auspicious occasion of Janai Purnima (Full moon).
The itinerary can feature one of two distinct routes, Dhunche-Helambu and Langtang Valley. The most popular path to date is the route via the Langtang valley. A trekker doesn't just get to favour the eye candy that is Gosaikunda but also indulges in the Himalayas during the trek. In recent years, the route via Helambu is also gaining popularity with sound investment in tourism and hospitality infrastructure.
Did you know? In the city of Lalitpur lies a pond that people believe is fed by the waters of Gosaikunda. As per local legends, a duck owned by a local farmer fell into the pond and disappeared. During the month of Bhadra, the locals honour a recently departed family member via a pilgrimage to Gosaikunda. As he had recently lost someone, he embarked on this journey. Surprisingly, when he was about to dip in the lake, he saw a duck in the shoreline. Upon inspection, it was his duck, which had mysteriously disappeared.
From this moment on, individuals visit this pond during Janai Purnima. Especially those who cannot make a pilgrimage to Gosaikunda.
Dhumba
Dhumba, commonly referred to as a hidden lake, is a gem of Mustang. It lies at an altitude of 2760m, and sandstone cliffs surround it. The famous peak of Nilgiri is visible to its south and Putang mountain from the north.
from Jomsom or a longer itinerary that features Tikhedunga, Ghorepani, Tatopani, Ghasa, Marpha, Kagbeni and Muktinath. The first begins at Jomsom. A bus ride from Kathmandu- Pokhara- Jomsom averages 15 hours, whereas a flight from Kathmandu-Pokhara is 25 minutes and Pokhara- Jomsom, 20 minutes. The second requires a drive to Nayapul, which is 1 hour away from the city of Pokhara.
This journey doesn't just include a chance to bask in the oasis that is Dhumba but also explore the Annapurna region. A short hike from Ghorepani to Poon Hill offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the Himalayas. Mountain ranges of Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, and others in the faint glimmer of sunrise are a sight to behold. The Gurung villages along the trail look picturesque, with the Himalayas as a backdrop. Crossing into the region of Mustang is a journey back in time. The outback seems never-ending, and the stone masonry of Tibetan villages in awe.
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Siti Nakha: A day with deeper meaning
Siti Nakha is a special day in the Newar community dedicated to cleaning water sources. From spouts to taps, wells to ponds, the people band together to ensure its cleanliness. If not done right, great evil spawns from these depths, which decimates the entire city.
The Kathmandu Valley is the home of the Newars, an indigenous group that has reached pinnacles in all genres of society. Archaeological finds from as early as the 6th century present a highly developed community.
One of the most striking elements of the Newars is the sizable amount of cultural rituals and traditions. These festivals, customs and events aren’t just celebrations. They hold various meanings: symbolic and literal.
The day in focus, Siti Nakha is a similar event that holds a deep and dark meaning. Historians have not been able to pin when this tradition began, but it has relations with the urbanisation of this valley. Historical materials are scarce due to the practice of surface archaeology.
If you’ve been around the present-day central areas of the three cities, you’ll notice something peculiar. None of them has a dedicated natural water source. They are almost 4-6 km away from the dwelling. Thus, citizens rely on groundwater.
The secondary is through spouts. These feature an intricate system of ‘Raj Kulo’ ( royal water channel system).
The monarch’s primarily Lichhavi kings, also devised an intricate watershed system. These are for emergency or to maintain stock of the vital resource. It is the prime reason why Newar cities feature ample amounts of man-made ponds. Each community has its pond, spout and wells.
Now, why is this important?
Siti Nakha is marked right before the prime plantation season, which is during peak summer and beginning of monsoon. This time of year equals waterborne illnesses and pests if the spout, shed or source are contaminated. Stagnant pools are a haven for mosquitoes; they always make things worse.
Crowding in urban areas, improper waste management system, open defecation and unsanitary habits gave birth to gruesome epidemics. Elders still speak of these hellish days when life hung on the balance. The state and community devised Siti Nakha to mitigate the nightmare. It falls on the sixth day of the bright fortnight of Jestha (Siti Sasthi). The day begins with the worship of Lord Kumar/ Kartikeya, the eldest son of Lord Shiva and Parvati. A mandap (mandala) of Lord Kumar is drawn at the Pikhalakhu (a place outside the house) by the elder.
While the male members make ready cleaning supplies, women mince lentils soaked overnight. They are then pan-fried. This delicacy is known as Wo, pan-fried lentil patties. It is served as an accoutrement during a bhwe (Newar full plate) or consumed as a snack. Individuals then embark to their closest water area and work full-swing to ensure its fit. Depending upon the community, lunch for this day is Chatamari, rice flour crepes. It is either served with sides or topped with delicious toppings such as eggs, diced vegetables or minced meat. Modern renditions include toppings such as sauce, cheese and aged meat. Chatamaris versatility gives it status equal to an American Pizza in the Newar community.
Families delight themselves in a Newar full plate accompanied by traditional liquors such as Jaad/Chyyang (Rice Beer) and Aila (Spirit) during the evening. Dessert includes a light portion of beaten rice followed by a generous serving of yoghurt topped with sugar, radish and carrot sticks.
Another significance of this day, it marks the completion of the festive calendar. Newars for the upcoming month engage themselves in rice plantation. Once complete, they place or throw scarecrows (Gathe Mwo) at the nearest crossroad. This day is known as Gathe Mugah. It marks the beginning of the Newar festive calendar as well. Communities must also complete the Dewali Puja, ceremonial worship of the tutelary deity before celebrating Siti Nakha. Dewali Puja includes a ceremony that welcomes the newlywed daughter-in-law into the family.
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Lakes of Nepal - Part II
The mundane world amplified by the troubles of life at times is a burden to one's soul. Escaping into the arms of mother nature is solace beyond words. What can be more tranquil than the heavenly shores of pristine water? In its reflection, we get a chance to rediscover ourselves and let go of all our troubles.
Tsho Rolpa
The Rolwaling valley of central Nepal for years has laid under the shadow of its neighbouring Everest region. Its possibility as a tourism destination has for years been talked about by tourism specialists. But lack of interest made this valley a hidden gem.
Its crown jewel is the Tsho Rolpa (Cho Rolpa) glacial lake situated at 4,580 m (15,030ft). In recent years, it garnered attention due to the accelerated melting of the glacier.
Reaching Tsho Rolpa is a challenging trek, but the tranquil glacial water is worth the hardship. This area is home to the Sherpa community, dispersed in beautiful villages. This trek also allows one to experience their traditional culture and lifestyle. An extended itinerary to explore the Daldlung Pass features splendid views of the high Himalayas.
A generic itinerary features an 8-hour drive from Kathmandu to Singati Bazar. The trek further is anywhere between 7-9 days. The route has a circuit pattern and is best during the months of spring and autumn.
Rupa
This lake for years has been under the shadow of Phewa and Begnas in the district of Kaski. The region only gained popularity a few years ago with sound investment in tourism infrastructure. At an altitude of 600 meters, Rupa is a 30-minute bus ride away from the valley of Pokhara.
It over the years has developed into an independent attraction with ample activities to indulge in for a traveller. The lakes wetland ecosystem is home to 36 species of waterbirds and plenty of flora and fauna. The region's economy largely encompassed fish farming before investment in tourism and hospitality.
Today, Rupa is a bustling destination with itineraries such as a village tour, eco tour, three lakes (Phewa, Rupa and Begnas) tour and others.
Gokyo Ri
The valley of Gokyo is an intricate complex of 19 lakes under the shadow of Mt. Cho Oyu. The clear freshwater is a sight to behold after a strenuous trek. An average itinerary ranges anywhere between 14-20 days. The longest features an ascent to Gokyo valley, followed by a walk to Everest Base Camp through the Cho La Pass. It also includes a hike to Kala Pathar for an up-close view of Mount Everest. The descent features a visit to the stunning Tengboche Monastery and Khumjung village.
There are six prime lakes in the valley. Thonak Cho is the largest amongst them. Gokyo Cho, one of the six, is also known as Dudh Pokhari due to its milky appearance.
Tilicho
In the far lands of Manang district at an altitude of 4919m lies the mystic waters of Tilicho. Heavenly, tranquil and beautiful are general synonyms used to describe this destination. It is accessed either via the Annapurna circuit route or an independent trek to Tilicho. Trekkers need to cross the Thorong La Pass at 5416 m to reach the lake.
The journey through the pass is quite demanding. Thus, this lake is also known as the fruit of Thorong La. An alternate route that skirts the lake from the north is slowly gaining popularity. But it requires at least one night of camping due to the lack of teahouses and lodges.
It also has high significance in Hinduism as this lake is often referred to as the ancient Kak Bhusundi Lake mentioned in the epic Ramayana. Peaks such as Khangsar, Nilgiri, Tilicho and Muktinath flank the lake, adding their magnificent reflections: accentuating the view.
In the next article we shall look into Phewa and Begnas of Pokhara, Gosaikunda and Dhumba lake.
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Lakes of Nepal
Nepal is yonder. Its beauty is unparallel, at times feels fictitious. A step beyond its urban realm is a year back in time. One gets to experience mother nature, inhale her sweet perfume in every breath and rediscover tranquillity and bask in her lap. This nation is home to numerous lakes. Reaching its shores is an adventure, one worth every sweat and tear.
Birendra Lake
Locally referred to as Birendra Taal (Lake), its freshwaters are from the Manaslu glacier in the Gorkha district. Its vicinity is known as Samagaun and is near Punhyen glacier and gompa (monastery). To reach this heavenly destination, one must embark on the trails of Manaslu.
The main trek is a 13-day journey with a few additional days added to it by your trekking agency for sightseeing in Kathmandu. The region has plenty to offer for an explorer, but the strict regulations make it troublesome. Thus, many opt for Annapurna's circuit instead.
The trek begins around Soti Khola. The drive is around 8/9 hours. After which, daily trekking time average around 6 hours to Samagaun. A day of site seeing and acclimatisation later, the trek to Samdo begins. Another day for acclimatisation is added as the journey further peaks at 5135m while traversing through Larkya La Pass.
The final destination is Syange. After which, it's a 7/8 hour drive to Kathmandu. This trek offers more than just a chance to see Birendra lake. An excellent panoramic view of the Himalayas awaits you at Larkya La.
Peaks such as Himal Chuli (7193m), Ngadi Chuli (7893m), Mt. Manaslu (8163m) and Manaslu North(7157m) and Shringi Himal (7187m) are the highlights of this trek.
Rara
The mystic and calm waters of Rara has been the calling for adventures for countless years. It is a bucket list destination for many Nepalese due to its popularity. The lake is in the district of Mugu. The closest airport is Jumla or Talcha airport, which is accessible through a flight from Nepalgunj. The main trek begins at Jumla airport and ranges from 2 to 3 days. Whereas from Talcha, it is a few hours walk.
The neighbouring dense green hills are home to several rare species of birds and animals. The national park established in 1976 protects these alpine and sub-alpine ranges along with the wetlands. It is the largest lake in Nepal and lies at 2,990 m.
A journey to this region is recommended from April to May (Spring) and September to November (Autumn).
Fun Fact! The lake is widely popular due to its ability to change colours into various shades during the daytime.
Shey Phoksundo
The turquoise water of this magnificent lake at golden hours is hard to describe. Sitting by it with the distant sound of a waterfall under an open blue sky is an experience straight out of heaven. The Phoksundo lake is within Shey Phoksundo National Park, the largest and only trans-Himalayan protected area of Nepal. On the southern end of the lake lies the village of Ringmo on top of a landslide dam created 30-40,000 years ago.
This body of water lies at an elevation of 3,660 m (12,010 ft). Surrounded by glaciers in its upper range, it is famous for its magnificent turquoise colour. Near the lake's outlet is the country's highest waterfall. The trek to this part of Nepal is strenuous, but the reward is an experience worth multiple lifetimes. The trip offers landscapes beyond words. Getting to experience the lifestyle of the ethnic community is a bonus.
The region is best visited between March to May (Spring) and September to November (Autumn). The closest airport is Juphal airport in Dolpa. The far-western region of Nepal is only accessible through the airport in Nepalgunj. The main trek ranges from 4-5 days to Ringmo. By road, the journey includes a 24-25 hour bus ride from Kathmandu to Radi Bazar.
In the next part of this article, we shall discover the lakes of Tsho Rolpa, Rupa, Gokyo and Tilicho.
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Good Reads on Nepal
The richness of Nepal at times is unfathomable. Discovering, experiencing and understanding its various facets is a tremendous task which altogether is a lifetime experience. This journey can be aided by endeavors and knowledge of great individuals who have defied odds, broken barriers and traversed miles to unearth Nepal's beauty.
Beyond Possible by Nimsdai Purja
ISBN: 978-9937-9341-4
I start this list with the book of a former soldier who had a dream. He wished to defy odds and accomplish a task labelled impossible. I had the honour of meeting Nirmal 'NIMS' Purja during the introductory press event for his mission. At the end of which, I was rendered speechless. 14 mountains towering 8000 metres awaited a man who wished to summit them in 7 months.
On the 29th of September 2019, with the successful ascent of Shishapangma in Tibet, the world fell silent. 14 peaks submitted in six months, six days. The book is a collection of his thoughts, vision, experience and reality. It takes the reader laced in the shoes of Purja atop the death zones where life hangs by a thread. It instils upon you the importance of hope, hard work and dedication along with the beauty of mother nature.
The rest, I leave for you to discover.
Mustang by Michael Peissel
ISBN: 7088-1589-8
This book takes you back in time to a glorious kingdom in the north-western region of Nepal. The author led an expedition for fifteen days from Kathmandu to this mystical ground in the mid-twentieth century.
His experiences have been compiled in this book. Even today, it is good to guide you through the regions unique heritage. Within the walls of Lo Mantang, he witnessed an ancient world. The regions culture, history, traditions and settings are well documented in this book.
Yak Girl by Dorje Dolma
ISBN: 978-93-5076-186-1
Yak Girl is a memoir of Dorje Dolma who's parents summoned all the courage to embark on a month-long trek from Dolpa to Kathmandu. Their daughter, age 10, was suffering from a life-threatening condition.
Where there is a will, there is a way.
The path for Dolma is through the mystic lands of Dolpa, one of the most isolated places in Nepal. Even today, this region is referred to as the 'Virgin lands of Nepal.' Her memoir allows you to discover Dolpa in the 80's and her journey spanning continents to save her life.
The Newar Merchants in Lhasa by Keshar Lall
ISBN: 99933-0-187-6
The Newars, an ethnic group native to the Kathmandu valley, gained a stout reputation as merchants in medieval times. Their ability, courage, strength and wit enabled them to dominate the tributaries of the ancient silk route above central Nepal.
Every adventure is a glorious tale in the making. This book by Keshar Lall complies the untold accounts of these daring men across the great Himalayas. The author's ability to mute his voice during the translation is utterly remarkable.
This quick read takes you on a journey with these men through the high mountain passes and into the heart of Lhasa in Tibet.
Kathmandu by Thomas Bell
ISBN: 978-81-8400-578-3
No book to date has been able to compile the history of Nepal like Kathmandu by Thomas Bell. The author takes a structural approach to building the foundations of this country based on selected readings and experiences. He adds to it his personal encounters, which gives this book a unique touch.
The author came to Nepal on an assignment to cover the civil war. Who knew he would find a fit here and settle down. This book is highly recommended for those who wish to gain a good understanding of Nepal's settings.
Taste of Nepal by Jyoti Patak
ISBN-13: 978-81-8363-085-6
A land of rich culture equals a land of diverse cuisine. Nepal is home to not just its exclusive taste. It is also a Shangri-la where aromas and delights of the Indian sub-continent meet. This prize-winning book is one of few cookbooks on Nepalese cuisine available in the market.
Cultural discovery does not always mean a trip through narrow gullies and high mountains of Nepal. A plate of food is more than just its ingredients. It is the gateway to learning about the regions topography, history, culture, technique and taste.
The author brings you more than 350 authentic recipes. It is a road down memory lane and straight to the kitchen.
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The Moving Temples of Kathmandu Valley - Part V
In this edition, we look into the moving temple of Bhaktapur. Commonly referred to as Biska Jatra, it is a unique celebration exclusive to the principalities of Bhaktapur. Celebrated with utmost veneration and respect, it overtime has become an intangible landmark. The highlights are the tug-of-war, vermilion festival and the tongue piercing ceremony.
Born and raised in this beautiful valley, I’ve had the honour of witnessing most of its chariot festivals. The moving temples are the same every year, but the pomp and flair never fail to strike a bolt of awe in my heart. The creaking of wood, thunder of cheers and clang of metal combined create a euphoric atmosphere. It never seems to get old.
In this article, we dive into the final moving temple of this valley. It is the hallmark of a unique festival celebrated in Bhaktapur. Collectively, it is known as Biska Jatra. This festival is celebrated in various dwellings of this region.
Did you know Bhaktapur was the capital of Nepal Mandala (Ancient Nepal)? This city is by far the most organized amongst its sisters (Lalitpur and Kathmandu). King Ananda Malla commissioned this city in the 9th century.
“This younger brother (Ananda Malla, son of Abhaya Malla being very generous and wise gave up the sovereignty over the two cities (Kathmandu and Lalitpur) founded a city of 12,000 houses, which he named Bhaktapur (Bhatgaon) and included sixty small villages in his territory. After this, the Raja having obtained the favour and directions of Chandeswari founded seven towns; viz Banepur(Banepa) near Chandeswari Pitha; Panavati ( Panauti) near the Pragya Tirtha of Nepal. Celebrated in the Shastras, on the site of where Panchala-des formerly stood, Nala near Nala Bhagvati, Dhaukhel(Dhulikhel) near Narayana; Khadpu near Dhaneswar; Chaikot, near the residence of Chakora Rishi; and Sanga, near Nasika Pitha.” (Wright,1990)1
Another fun fact, the festivals original name is Bisyaku Jatra. It means a celebration (jatra) after the death of serpents (Bisyaku).
Click here to read our article on the tale of Biska Jatra
On the first day of this celebration, a great tug of war ensues between (Thane) uptown and (Kone) downtown. Teams tussle to bring the kha (chariot) of Bhaila Deo (Bhairab) to their part of town. His chariot features three roofs, a dhoma (horizontal log), a golden pinnacle and four wheels.
The design features exquisite Newar woodwork with no nails. A joint based locking system (chuka) holds the chariot together. At the heat of war, it sways beautifully.
Simultaneously, in another part of town, Nakinju Ajima (Bhadrakali) is placed on a similar but smaller chariot. These two deities meet on the 4th day at Yoshin Khel. This area gets its name from Yoshin, meaning a long wooden pole erected in the middle of an open field (Khel).
Biska jatra also has another meaning. It symbolizes conjugation, creation and continuity of life. The depiction of which is the mating of Bhailo Deo and Nakinju Ajima. Their symbolic copulation occurs at Gahiti during midnight of new years day.
A local legend states how Bhailo Deo’s chariot doesn’t even move an inch during copulation. It is rather Nakinju Ajima who passionately dashes Bhailo Deo.
On the final day of the festival, the chariots head to their designated locales. The shrines are removed and carried to their temples.
Celebrations of Biska occur at various other localities of Bhaktapur. In Thimi, it is called Sindoor Jatra. Similar, Chapacho and Bode also have their version of Biska.
Click here to read our article on Sindoor Jatra.
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The Moving Temples of Kathmandu Valley - Part IV
The grand jubilation of Kumari Jatra celebrated during Yenya Punhi (Indra Jatra) is a sight to remember. A day when magic and mystery from all parts of Nepal Mandala (Ancient Nepal) meet at Yeh (Kathmandu) for an opulent festival.
Every Newar dwelling has its mammoth festivity. Matysendras chariot festival is the largest of Patan and Indra Jatra is of Kathmandu. The celebrations of the capital is unique due to the intersection of multiple facets.
Folk tales state how Lord Indra (King of heavens) descended to earth looking for Parijat (Night Jasmine). He took mortal form and found the plant in the yard of a Newar farmer. While picking the flower, he was caught and imprisoned.
As he did not return, his mother began to worry for his safety. She asked Phul Kusi, the white elephant of Lord Indra, to find him.
It searched for him day and night but failed to locate him. While roaming the streets of Kantipur (old city within Kathmandu), Phul Kusi was mesmerized by the music of the festivities. It danced its way through the streets with the locals.
Flabergasted was Phul Kusi when it reached the city centre. Chained atop a tall wooden pole was Lord Indra.
Phul Kusi took the news to swarga loka (heaven), and in a flash mother of Indra descended from heaven. She demanded her son be released. The locals told her that he was a thief. Indra watched the argument and began to grow restless. A great light imitated as he revealed his identity.
The locals were rendered speechless and feared his wrath. His mother offered them something that they could not refuse in exchange for her son.
She promised them a final rainfall before harvest season so that their crops can prosper. Also, she vowed to show them the gateway to heaven.
They freed him and followed them to the outskirts of the city. She tricked the villagers and generated a large mist. Amidst the confusion, the trio returned to heaven.
A fascinating tale, isn’t it?
The true origins of this festival, however, is still debated. The closest scientific rendition requires understanding various elements of Newar society. On a gist, the full moon of this period is Yenya Punhi. Primordially this day marked the last of Barsha (rainy season). Post which is Sarad (Autumn). Hoisting of a pole is a ceremonial act. The same can be seen during the end of winter and beginning of spring (Biskah Jatra of Bhaktapur). A similar act is placing scarecrows (Gatha Mwah) at the nearest crossroad after the saplings mature during the plantation season. This day is known as Gatha Mugah or Gathe Mangal.
Newar festivities begin in full swing after this day (Gathe Mangal) and end on Sithi Shasti/ Sithi Nakah, right before plantation season.
Now, onto the glorious chariots of Yenya Punhi.
As mentioned previously, over time this day as gained various facets. One of which is of Kumari Jatra, a grand festival of the guardian of this valley. She is viewed as the primordial protector along with Bhairab. Their worship dates back to the origin of this vale.
Click here: To read our article on the Kumari
According to chronicles, King Jaya Prakash Malla commissioned the festival. He incorporated Kumari Jatra into Indra Jatra. The living goddess and the living gods (Ganesha and Bhairab) are placed onto pagoda-style chariots and circulated on a designated route for three consecutive days.
On the first day, the chariots are pulled to Kwaneya (Downtown) area by revellers. The jubilation lasts till late as the route is quite ridiculous and narrow. At around 5 pm the next day, the trio are taken to Thaneya (Uptown). Revellers are encouraged by traditional tunes played by musicians. The final route is to Nanichaya (Midtown). It makes way from Basantapur to Pyaphal, Yatkha, Kilagal, Bedasing, Indra Chowk, Makhan and comes to an end at Basantapur.
A ritual (Kumari Puja) commences in front of the Kumari Chhen (home), after which Kumari Jatra is complete.
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The Moving Temples of Kathmandu Valley - Part III
Every temple has a story. Within it lies a deity who has provided some boon to its devotees. His/her celebration is an act of acknowledging their righteous act and reliving history. The Newars added pomp and flare to this celebration with mammoth chariots, traditional tunes and communal merrymaking.
Continued….
The trio applied their findings. In a few years, they witnessed an end to the slumber. The fields began to resemble gold swaying with the gentle winds of the harvest season. Slowly but steadily, the lost lustre returned to Nepal Mandala (Ancient Nepal).
The people hailed Matsyendra as a messiah. A consensus emerged to honour his compassion and immortalise him. A temple was envisioned on the outskirts of the principal dwelling by the trio. It was designed in the Shikhara style and built at Bunga (A small village 5.2 kilometres away from Lalitpur).
The small village was renamed Amarpur by the monarch, meaning immortal or everlasting. It was an effort to memorialise Matsyendra and make him a god. Taking it a step further a chariot festival was conceptualised.
Lalitpur already had numerous chariot festivals. The monarch instructed to discontinue them. He wanted to make room for a mammoth celebration of Matsyendra. The legend of Chak Baha Dyo (Min Nath) states how he did not want his festival discontinued. Priest Bandudatta requested him numerous times, all of which failed. Min Nath opened his third eye and projected a great beam of light. It hit a stupa outside the cortex.
His chariot festival is the only one that continues.
Why is Matsyendras chariot so tall is a common question. It is because the core features seven kha’s (levels). The first is known as biman kha. At this level, the idol of Matsyendra sits accompanied by his caretakers. The top kha is known as yaka kha, as a single member of the Barahi (woodworkers) community installs it. The remaining five levels are dedicated to Dhalaksha’s Lokanath, Matilinagar’s Batuk Bhairav, Satha’s Naryana, Calalse’s Harisankar, Kolima’s [ Kulimha’s] Mahesvara.
In a bygone era the chariot used to be pulled every year from Bunga to Lalitpur. During the Malla era, either Siddhi Narasimha or Sri Nivas Malla envisioned a glorious plan.
" Historical sources are silent on the matter, but historians have deduced that possibly as early as 1621, at any rate by 1652 when Kunu Sharma wrote his Kritipataka eulogizing the city, one or other of the two kings had taken the decision to establish a second temple of Karunamaya (Matsyendra) in Lalitpur itself.
Henceforth Karunamaya was to spend six months in each temple, thus bringing him closer to the people of Lalitpur, who were his devotees and no doubt increasing the popularity of the King. Ta Bahah was chosen as the site for his new temple. It seems that the membership of this ancient monastery had died out and some Vajracharyas from a small monastery in Dau Bahah twah called Bhelakhu Bahah [29] were assigned to it (Locke 1980:334; 1985: 137). " (N. Gellner, 1996)
References
N. Gellner, D. (1996). A sketch of the history of Lalitpur (Patan) with special references to Buddhism. CNAS Journal, 23(1), 139–140.
This trek is specially designed to reach the Everest Base Camp including Kala Pattar which is the best view point to view the sunrise over the high Himalayas including the Mt. Everest. This trek requires 13 days.
USD 1515 PER PERSON -- TWIN ROOM SHARING BASIS