Sikali: A Unique Take on Dashain
While most of us rejoice for nine days in the most auspicious festivity of Dashain, people of the Newa community partake in a unique cultural blend in a historic town. For ages, the post-harvest celebration has had its own significance and this Newar festival for the people of Khokana is parallel to the ideologies of Dashain, ‘Victory of good over evil.’
Historically speaking, the festival is dedicated to the name of the goddess Sikali, more commonly known as Rudrayani and Ajima. Famously known for carrying the reputation of a healer in society, Sikali are guardians committed to being the protector of children. During the seven days long festivals starting from Ghatasthapana, Goddess Rudrayani is carried in a wooden chariot for a stroll throughout the village. She then rests in front of the Sikali temple where she belongs surrounded by religious copper vessels.
On the day of Fulpati, they commemorate the occasion with a special cultural dance in the heart of Khokana. In the Malla era of the 15th century under the ruling of the King, Amar Malla made various temples under the name Matrika’s (Mother Goddesses). Amongst them, Rudrayani, commonly known as Maheshwari became a well-renowned deity. A special temple was made in her name and the town of Khokana dedicated its life to her service. For that matter, the King selected Dangols and Maharjans and relocated them to Pachali Bhairav for maintaining and catering service. While establishing the foundation of the Kingdom, the city was famously known as Jitapur.
So, in today’s era, how is tradition conducted? Well, it is conducted by the prestigious priests with decorative ornaments and plain white robes. About 14 masked goddesses come together to perform a graceful dance with each other. Locals have strong faith that their devotion to protecting them and their town from grave calamities and misfortunes. Previously, the deeds performed in the festivity were also known to reduce the high child mortality rate in Nepal. It was a common myth before modern medicines and vaccines came into existence.
Talking about the origin of the word Khokana, it is a Newari word Khokana where “Kho” means to weep and “Kana” means to tell. Legend says that in this land a respected Maharjan priest of Pachali Bhairav residing in Kathmandu lost consciousness because of a high cold fever. The village Vaidya, in a state of shock and confusion, thought he was dead and was taken to the bankside of Bagmati for cremation. His wife joined beside him in the pyre following the historical Hindu practice of Sati Pratha.
A heavy downpour then resulted in everyone leaving the cremation and running towards the shelter. But surprisingly, as the pyre started burning, the priest gained consciousness. Thinking of this as a bad omen, the people of the locality didn’t allow both of them to enter the city again.
With nowhere else to go, they decided to make their living in Kudesh, ‘Ku’ meaning Bad and ‘Desh’ meaning country. There’s a hearsay that claims Goddess Sikali Devi blessed the couple and they started a new settlement on the northwest side of Khokana, the rest is history.
During the final day, a distinct performance is held by the elders of the community. Presented in an archaic form of storytelling, it involves traditional music with people in godly dress up and a mask of famous gods and notorious demons. This represents a great diversity of people coming together as one. A huge commotion is created by individuals to witness the auspicious occasion of Sikali being taken to the temple. The spectacles take blessing from her for health and prosperity. Even tourists from far and long come to get a glimpse of this holy entity.
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Yenya Punhi: A Jubilation of Kathmandu - Part II
According to legends, it is believed that the mother of Lord Intra required a Parijat( a white flower) to perform a ritual. For which Lord Indra descended to earth in search of the flower. He disguised himself as a commoner and while trying to take the flower out of the lawn of a Jyapu. He caught Lord Indra and held him captive blaming him of trying to steal. Lord Indra was imprisoned and not allowed to go back to heaven.
Regarded as the biggest festival of the then Kingdom of Nepal Valley, the true origin of the festivals are still debated. But this festival is believed to be founded during the Licchavi Era by King Gunakamadeva, the founder of the city of Kantipur (Kathamandu). The celebration of Indra Jatra is made of three different series of rituals: Kumari Jatra, Indra Jatra and Bhairava Jatra. Each have their own legends and ceremonial components but as a whole, turn the centre of Basantapur Durbar Square into a grand affair. The square is a sight to behold from the break of dawn till midnight, as the chariots of Kumari, Ganesh and Bhairava make there way through the inner city of Kathmandu. Every street comes to life with masked dances, merry music during the eight days of festivities.
According to legends, it is believed that the mother of Lord Intra required a Parijat( a white flower) to perform a ritual. For which Lord Indra descended to earth in search of the flower. He disguised himself as a commoner and while trying to take the flower out of the lawn of a Jyapu. He caught Lord Indra and held him captive blaming him of trying to steal. Lord Indra was imprisoned and not allowed to go back to heaven.
The mother of Indra grew worry some as her son hadn’t returned from Earth. Phul Khusi ( The Vahan of Indra) descended upon Earth to find his master and wondered around the streets of Kathmandu. During when a great festival was occuring in the Kathmandu and after hours of searching, Phul Khusi found Lord Indra. Phul Khusi took the news to heaven after which, his mother descended from heaven to free her son. She requested the villagers to release her son, but didn’t heed to her words. Only after Lord Indra reveled his true form. The mother of Indra made a promise to the villagers to give in return a final rainfall for their harvest to prosper and she would lead them to the gateway to heaven.
Accepting the conditions the villagers freed Lord Indra and let him go with his mother, a group of villagers followed them to the outskirts of Kathmandu to find the doorway to heaven. But Lord Indra’s mother tricked the villagers by putting forth a large mist which left the villagers confused and in dismay as Lord Indra and his mother went to heaven. To commemorate this event, during the celebration of Indra, a Dagi ( Procession) takes the same path every single year. “The circumbulation of the city is performed in order to reach heaven in the Dagi’s footsteps to meet the dead relatives. The families scatter grain by the wayside so that they would not forget the way home. One finished, they throw what remains of there offerings in a plce called Bhuta Satta, near Kasthamandap, and wash their faces at Maru Hiti fountain. Afterwards, they either return home or go to bathe in Indra’s Pond ( Yamki Da), which is located on a hill 12 kilometers west of Kathmandu.” Toffin,1992,86)
The festival of Indra Jatra is a feast to all senses, the air is scented with the smell of incense, and the sound of drums and traditional instruments tranquil once ears. For the eyes, one can behold the procession of Living Goddess Kumari along with Lord Ganesh and Lord Bhairav. The chariot is pulled for three consecutive days. The first day is known as Kwaneya during when the chariot makes its way from Basantapur, Maru, Chikanmugal, Jasidewal, Lagan, Bhimsensthan, Baru and ends at Basantapur. The second day is known as Yenya Punhi on which the chariot procession begins from Basantapur to Pyaphal, Nyata, Tengal, Nhyaokha, Nhaikan Tol, Asan, Kel Tol, Indra Chowk, Makhan and ends at Basantapur. The final day of the procession is known as Nanichaya, the chariot is pulled by revellers from Basantapur tp Pyaphal, Yatkha, Nyata, Kilagal, Bhedsing, Indra Chowk, Makhan and ends at Basantapur.
During the festival of Indra, various idols and masks of goddess are taken out of their normal abode to be exhibited to the people. The most prominent of which are the Sweta Bhairab mask and the idol of Akash Bahiran. Similarly an image of Indra is displayed at Maru and Indra Chowk. Various forms of dances such as of Lakhe Aju, Mahakali Naach, Halchowk Bairab, Phul Kushi, Devi Kyakhan are performed on specific days and nights of the festival.
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Yenya Punhi: A Jubilation of Kathmandu - Part I
Amongst the great celebrations of this valley, nothing beats the pomp and flair of Yenya Punhi. Commonly known as Indra Jatra- a name derived from the lore of Indra- the heaven king's visit to Nepal. This festival is larger than life, with symbolism and meaning going back thousands of years- neatly preserved by the Newars.
The jubilation of Kathmandu is a combination of festivals. It features the veneration of multiple deities. The Newar name Yenya denotes "Celebration (ya) of Kantipur/ Kathmandu (yen)". The township during the Lichhavi era was called Yen. Its sister cities were respectively called Yala (Lalitpur), Kwopa (Bhatgaon/Bhaktapur) and Kipu (Kirtipur).
The origins of the festivities are very vague. However, the careful analysis presents a similarity to ancient paganistic rituals of Europe. The day of Yenya Punhi aligns with the change of season in this valley. The season transfers from Barsha (Monsoon) to Sarad (Autumn). Reviewing the procedures of various festivals in the valley: evidence is drawn to how the Yasi/ Yosi (Ceremonial Pole) is hoisted to alert the citizens of change. The same was observed in medieval Europe. The ceremonial May Day pole symbolized the advent of spring. A stark similarity to Bhaktapur's Yoshi was erected during Bisakh Jatra to celebrate the end of winter and the beginning of spring.
After the Earth, the festival features associations with the guardian deity of Nepal Kingdom- Bhairava. The association was made during the Licchavi Era. A legend goes as follows:
As instructed, the King merged the existing villages of Koligram (Yambhu) and Dakshin Koligram (Yengal). He defeated rulers of various petty states and created his new city. He also established a beautiful stone spout gilded in gold, Lu Hiti (Gold- dhara/ Sundhara). It featured an intricate water-management system, and royal canals (Rajkulos) channelled river water to the spout. He named the city Suvarna Pranali Kantipur. Here, Suvarna means golden, Pranali means system. Kantipur is a mixture of two words - Kanti, meaning beautiful and pur, which means place.
To celebrate the momentous occasion, he initiated a festival known as Yenya. The word is a mixture of Yen- the Newari name of the city and Ya- celebration. It is also called the celebration inside the town.
It is possible King Gunakamadeva’s celebration overlapped the change of seasons, and the two elements became one.
The inception of Indra in the festival is a great mystery. Indra is a god from the Vedic era. He had deep roots in the classical Indian pantheon, but his worship slowly began to fade. Some believe that due to his nature his worship began to fade. Anthropologist G.S Nepali writes, "The festival of Indra Jatra suggests perhaps the memory of a conflict between the two tribes- the followers of Indra and their opponents. The festival is perhaps an Indo-Aryan feature which survives in Nepal, but is totally forgotten in India."
The goddess of Indraghat arrived in the Nepal Kingdom during the rule of King Dharmadatta. The goddess is referred to as Indrayani, locally known as Manamaiju. The hill where she settled in this valley is referred to as Manamaiju. It could be that after her arrival, the worship of her husband Indra also began.
The third fold of this festival is the female guardian of the Nepal Kingdom- Kumari. A Kumari is a living goddess embodying the energy of the divine feminine. She is worshipped as Taleju Bhawani, Durga or Parvati. During the Malla Era, King Jaya Prakash Malla had an unfortunate encounter. He lost the trust of his tutelary deity Tulaju Devi (today known as Taleju). After multiple requests, she came to his dreams and directed him to begin worshipping a virgin girl of the Bandra (Buddhist Newar) community as her manifestation.
To read the full version of the incident click here
These elements combined have created an atmosphere of great jubilation. The core activities related to these deities are accompanied by various magical creatures and the presentation of beautiful dances and plays.
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10 Essential Things To Do In Kathmandu Valley - Part II
The valley- is an astonishing amalgam of religions, culture and heritage. It isn’t just the political centre point of our nation but also the melting pot where you can discover the country through one beautiful melting pot.
In the previous article, we mentioned visiting the Hanuman Dhoka Palace Museum and hunting down UNESCO World Heritage sites of the valley. In this part, we shall explore more activities.
3. Visit Chandragiri
Chandragiri is a popular hill station in Kathmandu Valley. Before the gondola transportation system, this region was under the radar. This point is a great vantage to see the valley basin. It also has historical significance.
The hills are 16 km from central Kathmandu. A drive or ride would face South-West. It is situated at an altitude of 2551 metres, making it the second highest hill point in the valley after Shivapuri at 2732m. The last two hills are Pulchhowki at 2695m and Nagarjun at 2095m.
If a gondola isn’t your cup of tea, you can hike, drive or ride to reach the top. The trip would be nothing short of an adventure as the terrain is uneven and rocky.
From the highest point in Chandragiri, depending upon the season, you can see numerous peaks of the Himalayan Range. During perfect weather, you can even see Mount Everest.
4. Indulge in the local cuisine
A diverse cultural scene equals culinary diversity. The melting pot of Kathmandu Valley has establishments that serve numerous ethnic cuisines. Even though it might seem like fast food and Newari cuisine dominate the landscape, it is not true. With a bit of research, you can create a beautiful culinary exploration map to try mouth-watering delicacies.
Two regional cuisines are dominant- Thakali & Newari. Thakali flavours are from Western Nepal, and their staple dish is a divine Thali.
The second cuisine is of the indigenous inhabits of the Kathmandu Valley- The Newars! Their stride in the crafts can be seen in the iconic squares, whereas their exceptional choice of taste is visible in their assortment of dishes.
The Newar cuisine represents the migratory roots of the Newar people. Multiple ingredients were brought to this valley by merchant families during their trade adventure. Some dishes are similar to out neighbour nations. However the Newar touch makes the version available in the valley unique.
Other ethnic groups as Rai, Tamang, Sherpa have their eateries set up in this valley. They stride to serve you an authentic taste using native ingredients and spices.
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10 Essential Activities In Kathmandu Valley - Part I
The valley of Kathmandu at times feels like a chaotic amalgam of traditional and modern culture. This transitional era of Nepal has given birth to numerous activities in the Kathmandu Valley both traditional and modern
The Valley of Kathmandu is home to numerous cities. The most popular are Kathmandu (Capital of Nepal), Lalitpur, Bhaktapur & Kirtipur. These three, along with their confederate states, were considered the Kingdom of Nepal (Nepal Mandala) before the formation of the modern kingdom of Nepal by King Prithvi Narayan Shah.
In 1769 AD, after the successful assault on Bhaktapur where he had cornered all the (King Jaya Prakash Malla of Kathmandu, King Tej Narsigha Malla of Patan & King Ranjit Malla of Bhaktapur) claimed victory over the valley.
King Shah made the valley a focal point of his expansion campaign due to the power and treasures accumulated by the Malla kings. Once conquered, the Malla controlled checkpoints, and their treasures and strategic forts now belonged to King Shah.
1. Visit The Hanuman Dhoka Palace Museum
The history mentioned above is just a teaser of the rich political past of Nepal. King Shah, after 1769, moved to the former royal palace of the Mallas. This valley later became the centre of his political and military advance. He and his descendants walked the halls of this palace museum, once a glorious palace home.
This palace museum hosts well-preserved artefacts, relics and reliefs of the bygone era of Nepal. This place is the perfect place to start your deep dive into rich cultural, political and military history.
2. UNESCO Heritage Site Hunt
The valley of Kathmandu is home to 7 of the 10 listed UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Nepal. The list goes as follows:
These sites are in close proximity to each other. You can explore them with ease. During your visit to these iconic sites, absorb as much of the place as possible.
The furthest location on this list is the magnificent temple of Changu Narayan. Historians believe that this temple is the oldest in Nepal. Some sources are that it was built during the 2nd century during the Lichhavi rule. However, the local experts state that the temple is much older.
In the upcoming blog, we shall explore more essential activities for Kathmandu Valley.
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Trekking Annapurna
The Annapurna region of Nepal is a surreal gem of Nepal. This region is home to ample natural beauty, flora and fauna. This region today features the most traversed trails in our nation.
Annapurna- the giver of food and nourishment! The region named after the snowy peaks of Annapurna stands true to its name. Since time immemorial, these mountains have been the source of the elixir of life- water! The stream and rivers that flow from these mountains helped shape its unique lifestyle and beauty. Even today, these mountains and their ecosystem provide bread and nourishment to numerous families all over Nepal. The world comes to witness this natural yonder and traverse its beaten trails.
The gateway to this immaculate wonder is the peaceful lake town of Pokhara. This picturesque valley is a bustling tourist hub featuring ample amenities set up to cater for the flock of adventurers and trekkers who descend upon this valley all-around the year, especially during spring and autumn, to escape in the tranquil lap of nature.
Every day and every mile in this region is a new adventure here. The diversity of ecosystems and terrain is out of this world. The Annapurna Conservation Area begins at 790 m above sea level and reaches 8,091 m at the summit of Mount Annapurna I, the 10th tallest peak in the world.
Enchanted forests, magical high passes and breathtaking scenes await a traveller in this region. Some of the most popular treks in the region are as follows:
Poonhill Trek
Basic Itinerary Days: 4-5
Route: KTM-PKR (Flight)-Naya Pul (Drive)- Tikhe Dhunga- Ghorepani- Tadapani- Poonhill (morning hike)- Ghandruk- Naya Pul- Pokhara (Drive)- Kathmandu (Flight)
Trek Style: Tea House
Max Elevation: 3210m
Attractions: Poonhill view point, sunrise view, culture and lifestyle of gurung people, panoramic mountain views
Ghodepani is synonymous with Poonhill, the magnicent mountain viewing station literally takes ones breath away with surreal views of the Annapurna Range and Dhaulagiri Range. A strenuous trek of 5 days bears the fruits of beautiful opportunity to experience the himalayan lifestyle and indulge in the beauty of the Himalayas.
The Ghodepani Circuit is part of the larger Annapurna Circuit which starts from Besiahar Lamjung and ends in the pareses known as Pokhara. The 21-26 day tour is a stretch that most cannot endure thus the Ghodepani Circuit though challenging is short enough for most to conquer and experience the Himalayas.
Lower Mustang Trek
Basic Itinerary Days: 9 Days
Route: KTM- PKR- Jomsom ( Flight) - Kagbeni (Trek) - Jharkot (Trek) - Muktinath (Trek) - Lupra (Trek) - Jomsom - PKR (Flight)
Trek Style: Tea House
Max Elevation: 3795 M
Attractions: Red Gompa, Apple Orchids, Muktinath Temple, Panoramic Peaks View, Thak Kola, Bonpo Monastery, Sayka Gompa
Best Season: May- Nov
The barren landscape of Lower Mustang at times can feel like an otherworldly experience. With its rustic atmosphere, barren hills and tantalizing view of the Himalayas, it also offers the travellers an opportunity to experience the traditional lifestyle of the Thakali people who have called this region home for thousands of years. A far and easy trail which departs from Jomsom, with moderate altitude climbs and features a fair trial for all to enjoy.
Royal Trek
Basic Itinerary Days: 5 Days
Route: KTM- PKR (Flight/Bus)- Bijayapur (Drive)- Kalikasthan (Trek)- Syaklung(Trek) - Chisapani(Trek)- Sundare Danda ( Trek) - Pokhara (Drive)
Permit: Basic Permit (T.I.M.S)
Cost: USD $25
Trek Style: Tea House
Max Elevation: 1730M
Attractions: Lakes such as Rupa, Begnas and Fewa, Rhododendron Forests, Panoramic Peaks View with mountains such as Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Machhapuchhre, Annapurna and it’s sisters.
Best Season: September - December and March to May
The trail gets its name after Prince Charles and his entourage explored Annapurna region through this path in the early eighties. One of the most popular short trails in Annapurna Conservation Area, the basic itinerary of 5 days is great for adventurers who don’t have much time but still wish to explore the region. Located in the North-Western side of Pokhara, the trails of Royal Trek allows you to experience the majestic mountains of Machapuchre, Manaslu, Annapurna, Lamjung Himal and Dhaulagiri and others. It also provides you with an opportunity to witness the life of the ethnic communities of Gurungs and Magars.
The trek passes through beautiful Gurung hamlets, where one can indulge in the traditional lifestyle, culture, and traditions of the Gurung people which they have preserved and maintained even till this day.
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Mohni- A Cultural Experience
For an outsider to truly experience Mohni, s/he has to be invited by a Newar to their home. Over the years, due to its close celebratory proximity to Dashera, the grand festival of India, it was also considered Dashain- the Nepali rendition of Dashera. But, in reality, Mohni features a few similar elements brought by migrants from the south. Apart from this, the customs and traditions are completely different.
The core celebrations are private. But the Newars, over the years, found a way to liven the public atmosphere as well. Thus, various smaller events take place during the core two-week festival. As these cultural traditions take place in public spaces, one can absorb the cultural experiences easily.
To learn more about the celebration: Click Here
Mentioned below are a few of these events. They amplify the celebrations of Mohni via the presentation of numerous dances, skits and others.
Sikali Jatra
On the southern end of the city of Lalitpur lies the picturesque village of Khokana. Historic in nature, stepping foot inside the settlement is equal to walking back in time. The old mud-brick houses and ancient heritage mingle with the new concrete construction.
A unique aspect of this village is how the inhabitants do not celebrate the main festival of Dashain. They, however, rejoice in a celebration known as Sikali Jatra. It begins on the day of Ghatasthapana and ends on the day of Fulpati.
During this period, the inhabitants perform ancient rituals. Amongst these are the Sikali Naach and the skit of Khokhana. Elders adorn the masks of various deities and re-create a play depicting old tales. Whereas in the premises of the Sikali temple, an arcane ritual takes place.
Asta Matrika Dance
Traditionally known as Ga Pyakhan, this ensemble features 13 masked dancers who embody the principal mother deities of the city and chief gods. In Nepal Bhasa (Newari), Ga means group and Pyakhan- dance, whereas Asta Matrika Dance in Nepali.
This dance originated in the 17th century. As per chronicles, the king saw the deities dance towards his palace and enter the courtyard. The king rushed to take their blessings, but as he entered the court, they vanished. To commemorate this auspicious event, he initiated this dance.
This performance is annual and begins on Ghatasthapana- the first day of Mohni. The dancers follow strict discipline for eleven days. Primarily the presentation takes place in the evening, but on the seventh and tenth day, the show takes place during the day at Mul Chowk of Patan Durbar.
Pachali Bhairab Jatra
Towards the southern end of Kathmandu lies an open-air temple with a peculiar deity. The worship of Pachali Bhairab, as per numerous chronicles, began in the 10th century, during the rule of king Gunakamadev. The festival of Pachali Bhairab takes place on the fifth day of Mohni. Devotees flock to the temple to seek his blessing and to witness the chariot festival. The deity is carried on a palanquin by community members and take a designed route on the old city roads. At Hanuman Dhoka, the idol rests, and special puja is conducted. Post which, the procession heads towards Kumari Chhen (House), where the living goddess locks eyes with the bronze idol. Until she instructs that she is satisfied, the ritual doesn’t stop. After her instructions, the procession completes the circuit, and the statue rests inside the temple premises.
Khadga Jatra
On the morning of the tenth day, three scared swords are brought to Patan Durbar Square from the temple of Mahalaxmi in Lagankhel. Young boys tease the sword-bearer, and a deadly chase ensues. It is a spectacle that attracts a handsome crowd. Once they reach the palace cortex, the sword-bearers are welcomed with a special ceremony. The swords are then placed inside the temple and taken out in the evening.
Thecho Navadurga
The ensemble from Thecho, a semi-urban village south of Lalitpur, visits Patan Durbar Square on the evening of the tenth day. It features masked dancers who embody mother goddesses and other chief gods. They perform a sacred dance in the palace courtyard and indulge in a feast as well.
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Gai Jatra A Day of Remembrance
Annually on the day of Bhadra Krishna Pratiprada, the valley of Kathmandu wakes to celebrate a festival like no other. Known as Sa Paru in Newari, and Gai Jatra in the Nepali, during the day individuals choose to commemorate the members of their family who have recently departed.
The thing that makes this festival so unique, is the way of commemoration, it isn’t done shedding tears but by spreading laughter and love. The festival is observed for a total of eight days, but the grand festivities occur on the first day. Celebrated only inside the Kathmandu Valley, by the natives of the Newar Community each city of the then Kingdom of Nepal celebrates the day in their unique manner.
According to legends, it is believed that King Pratap Malla of the Malla Dynasty instituted the Gai Jatra after the death of his son. His wife had been stricken with grief and all remedies of had thus failed. King Pratap Malla couldn’t bare the condition of his beloved wife and thus instituted a long procession, to bring forth to the Queen that it wasn’t only she who had lost a dear member of the family. Seeing the procession eased her sorrows, but it didn’t get the job done. Thus he announced a reward would be granted to anyone who would be able to put a smile on the queens face. It is also believed that, he granted full freedom of speech during the festival. The citizens accepted the challenge and came forth with various jokes and ridiculous apparel. Seeing which, the Queen finally broke a smile and laughed.
After which the celebration of Gai Jatra took a new leaf in the valley, where it became not just a way to commemorate the departed but also a way to spread joy and happiness to the once who did. Anil Chitrakar in his article for ECS Nepal states another legend related to the beginning of Gai Jatra, “As the Buddha was going around teaching the Dharma, a woman by the name of Krisha Gautami approached him crying and carrying a dead child. She demanded that if he was as great as people had told her he was, the Buddha should bring her child back to life. It is said that the Buddha calmly asked the woman to get some mustard seeds from a home where there had been no deaths so that he could sprinkle them on the child and bring him back to life. The woman agreed and began her quest to get the seeds from a home where no one had died. House after house she had to listen to sad tales of death in each family. As the day wore on, the woman realized the futility of her effort. The process of healing had begun.”
It is believed that Gai Jatra is a tribute to the departed soul. In Hinduism and Hindu mythology the cow is believed to a holy animal which would lead wondering spirits of the departed soul towards heaven. The departed are believed to hold the tail of the cow while they make their journey across the Vaitanrni River( The river between Earth and Naraka, the realm of Yama the god of death) without facing any hurdles.
The festival of Gai Jatra has multiple forms of observance in each city of the then Kingdom of Nepal Valley. In the city of Kantipur (Kathmandu), the procession makes its way thorough the old routes of the city and to the Durbar Square. Revellers of all forms can be seen, but the pack is normally lead by children dressed what we call, “ Gai Jatra” attire. In Patan, the day of Gai Jatra has very less participants as Patan( Lalitpur) celebrates Mataya. Mataya and Gai Jatra bare similarities, both long processions and mostly observed by individuals who have lost a member of their family in the recent year.
If one truly chooses to see the grand festival of Gai Jatra, then one must head to Bhaktapur. The entire Durbar Square area, lights up in a grand celebration with chariots known as Taha-Machas, which indicate the departed are taken around the city. The most unique paradeis known as Ghinta Ghisi which has two rows of individuals each with two small sticks hitting each others stick. It bares similarities with the Indian dance of Dandiya.
The festival of Gai Jatra holds a special communal importance in the Newar communities. The communities come together to organize, songs and music for the procession. The festival brings together members of the community where they can share condolences and also provide encouragements to the family members of the departed. It also helps make aware the younger generation, the cycle of life and how everyone has to die and it is a part of life. But that doesn’t mean that one has to always stay in mourning, and sorrow and the activities of the festival help bring love, laughter and joy into their lives.
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An Adventure in Ghale Gaun and Bhujung Gaun - Part III
The villages of Ghale Gaun & Bhujung Gaun are two great examples of life in the Annapurna region. The beauty of the panoramic vista along with the smiles of the humble people are enough to create memories that last a lifetime.
Day 4: Sightseeing day at Ghale Gaun
The fourth day is dedicated to exploring all the elements of the village. We recommend waking up early to witness the sunrise from the viewpoint. It is 10 minutes from the main town. You can take great photographs of the Himalayas and the village from this site.
After breakfast, you shall head towards Ghale Gaun Museum. It displays various tools, artefacts and clothes of the local community. You can borrow the traditional attire to take a few pictures for yourself. After the museum tour, you can visit the local religious sites such as the Uttarkanya temple and the local monastery. Further, you can take a small break at the tea garden.
There is a beautiful lake in the area named Talangyo lake. It is a popular site for bird watching. In the afternoon, make sure to witness the sunset.
The village community shall organise a cultural dance and music program before dinner.
Day 5: Ghale Gaun- Khudi - Besisahar - Kathmandu
After a good breakfast in the early morning, we embark on Khudi. The hike averages 4 hours. Once at Khudi, you shall get on board a vehicle that shall take you to Besisahar. A bus shall be waiting for you that shall take you to Kathmandu.
Once you reach Kathmandu, you can further explore this beautiful city. Out hotel features multiple tour packages. It includes an experienced travel guide along with a private shuttle. You can enquire about our offerings at the travel desk located in our hotel lobby. If you choose to explore the valley on your own, you should remember a few things.
Things to remember while exploring Kathmandu
1. Make sure to stay away from street hawkers: As Kathmandu Valley is a tourist destination, the streets of the major sites and monuments are filled with street hawkers. They shall approach you to sell a variety of local and imported goods. We advise you to polity decline any offerings provided by them. If you feel like you are being harassed by them, you can call the hotel or dial 1144 to contact the tourist police.
2. If you travel via public transportation, please be cautious of your surroundings and belongings. A safer option would be to hail a cab or use ride-sharing applications such as Pathao and Tootle. The fare charged is nominal and less than a cab. These rides are safer than public transportation.
3. Always check restaurant reviews for a better dining experience.
4. Make sure to wear a mask and proper covering to avoid air pollution.
5. Try and learn a few phrases in the local language. This makes travelling more convenient.
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An Adventure in Ghale Gaun and Bhujung Gaun - Part II
The two villages of Ghale Gaun and Bhujung are one of the oldest settlements in this region. The native people, and the ethnic community of Gurung, feature a rich cultural history. They are the masters of this terrain and have lived sustainably in these mountains for centuries. This trek offers you the chance to not just indulge in the natural serenity but also witness the lifestyle of the people. Their smiles will strike your heart, and their humble hospitality shall make this trip a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
About the trip
Difficulty: Moderate
Average Duration: 4 Nights and 5 Days
Maximum Altitude: 2157 metres
Accommodation Type: Tea House
Route: Kathmandu- Besisahar- Khudi- Ghale Gaun- Ghanpokhara - Bhujung- Ghale Gaun- Khudi- Besisahar- Kathmandu
Day 1: Arrival at Kathmandu
Once you arrive at TIA (Tribhuvan International Airport), our staff shall receive you at the airport (if you've requested airport pick up). If you're staying at Hotel Shanker but didn't opt for pick up, you can take a taxi. You can use Google Maps if the driver doesn't know the exact location.
You can take the day to travel to the capital- Kathmandu. The city is a unique gem that boasts its unique cultural heritage and monuments. The valley of Kathmandu, with its three cities- Kathmandu, Lalitpur, and Bhaktapur combined features 7 of the 10 UNESCO world heritage sites of Nepal.
Read more on the heritage sites through the links mentioned below:
7. Changu Narayan Temple
Day 2: Depart to Khudi via Besisahar and trek to Ghale Gaun
After breakfast, we shall arrange your departure to Besishar- the district headquarters of Lamjung District. It is 173 kilometres from the capital. The bus ride averages 6-7 hours. You can read the first part of the article for further details.
Click on this link to read the first part of this blog
Once you arrive at Besisahar, you shall be switched to a private vehicle that shall take you to Khudi. The drive averages 30 - 40 minutes. Once you reach Khudi, you can relax before the trek begins. You shall then walk 4 to 5 hours to Ghale Gaun. The hike difficulty is moderate, with gradual inclines and declines. You shall witness numerous small villages which display the traditional lifestyle of the people of this region. In terms of mountain views, you shall be greeted by the panoramic vista of the Annapurna range and Manaslu.
Once you arrive at Ghale Gaun, you shall be received with great respect. The village elders shall offer you a flower garland, place a tika on your forehead and offer you a traditional beverage. The village has good cellular reception from the national carrier (NTC) and private carrier Ncell, with random latency caused by the weather. Wifi service is also good.
The toilet and bath are not attached to the main home in this region but are just a few steps away from the main compound of the house.
Day 3: Ghale Gaun - Ghan Pokhara - Bhujung Gaun - Ghale Gaun
We recommend waking up before sunrise and heading to the local viewpoint to witness the beautiful sunrise. After a good breakfast featuring both traditional offerings, you shall travel to Ghan Pokhara. The hike averages about 40-45 minutes. The hike features a good number of uphill climbs. You shall see numerous Rhododendron forests and honey hunting sites.
Once you reach Ghan Pokhara, refreshments will be provided. After a short break, you shall head towards Bhujung Gaun - the largest Gurung settlement in the Annapurna region. One of the most unique facets of this village is the arch terrace layout of houses.
The primary occupation of the people in this region is agriculture and animal husbandry. They practice a sustainable style of living. Your lunch for the day shall be at this village.
Things to do in Bhujung Gaun
Take par in the village tour
Visit the Bhujung Museum
Visit the tea garden
Visit the Kaiyo waterfall
Visit the local monastery
Visit the local hydro power site
Buy the handicraft as a souvenir
After exploration, you shall return to Ghale Gaun. The hike back to Ghale Gaun averages 2 hours. Once you reach Ghale Gaun, you can relax and take a shower before dinner.
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Exploring The Unexplored - Part III
So much is yet to be explored! A humble nation, traversed by thousands over time, still has so many new places to be discovered? There are many facets of existing popular destinations that have never seen the light of day. Let us look at a few places to explore, shall we?
Panauti
Province: Bagmati
Distance from Kathmandu: 32 km
Accessibility: Land at TIA (Tribhuvan International Airport) and take a 1.5 hour bus ride along Araniko Highway
Attractions: Well preserved traditional Newar architecture, Indreshwar Mahadev Temple, Brahmayani Temple, Tindhare Waterfall, Old Bazzar
When we think of the Newar culture; and their dominion, the valley kingdoms of Lalitpur, Kathmandu (Kantipur) and Bhaktapur come to mind. But, they aren't the only cities that feature a sizeable population of this ethnic community that once dominated the landscape of this region. Cities such as Panauti, Bandipur, Kirtipur, Bhimphedi, Banepa, Nuwakot and Palpa also feature brilliant examples of Newari culture and lifestyle.
Panauti was once a flourishing kingdom. It was a trading hub in Tibet and India's ancient Salt Trade Route. Historically, this region was a small state. As per historical findings, the settlement was created by King Ananda Malla.
“This younger brother (Ananda Malla) being very generous and wise, gave up the sovereingty over the two cities, and having invoked Annapurna Devi from Kasi founded a city of 12,000 houses which he named Bhaktapur(Bhatgaon) and included sixty small village in his territory.After this, the Raja having obtained the favour and directions of Chandeswari, founded seven towns; viz. Banepur(Banepa) near Chandeswari Pitha, Panavati(Panauti), near the Pragaya TIrtha of Nepal, celebrated in the Shastras on the site where Panchala-des formely stood, Nala, near Nala Bhagavati, Dhaukhle near Narayana; Khapu near Dhaneswaril Chaukot near the residence of Chankora Rishi; Sanga near Nasika Pitha.”
Wright 1877: 163
Later, during the reign of King Bhupatindra Malla, the state was presented his passed on to his sister as dowry (offerings given by the bride's side during marriage). Panauti is a city of great historical significance. As per chronicles and historical findings, this region was where the Panchala-desh once stood. Panchala was one of sixteen mahajanapadas (states) of the Indian subcontinent. Characters of Mahabharata such as Draupadi, Drupada, Satyajit, and Sage Dhaumya are said to be natives of Panchala.
Panauti is an example of what the entire valley once looked like once. The city is stagnant today like many other once trading hubs of the ancient salt route. This stagnation helped preserve the historicity of the city and its architecture.
Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve
Provinces: 1 & 2 ( Madesh Province)
Distance from Kathmandu:
Accessibility
By Road: 8.5 hour bus ride (338.6km) via B.P Highway & East-West Highway, Daily buses (Day & Night) service from Kathmandu to Kakarbhitta and Biratnagar, visitors shpuld disembark at Jamuha and walk 2.5 km to the reserve head quarter.
By Air: 35 minute plain ride from Kathmandu to Biratnagar then a 1.5 hour bus ride
Attractions: Sapta Koshi River, last surviving population of wild buffalo, fauna species such as hog dee, wild deer, spotted deer, blue bull and rock python, panoramic views of Himalayan peaks including Makalu (8643m), 441 species of birds (14 endemic)
Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve KTWR) is a marvellous example of conservation at its finest. Originally this area was announced as a Hunting Reserve in 1969 with a total area of 12 km2. In 1976, the reserve area was enlarged to 65 km2. A third phase extension was conducted in 1980 to feature the present total area of 175 km2.
When we think of the conservation area projects in Nepal- the eastern flank is highly reclusive. Due to ineffective development of transportation and lack of adequate promotion compared to its western siblings are less traversed.
KTWR is the last habitat for Babalus arnee, also known as Wild Buffalo or Arna in the Nepalese language. It is also the habitat for 14 endemic species of birds that thrive in this wetland. This area has thee distinct seasons- Summer (February through May), which is very hot with minimal precipitation. The monsoon beings in late May/early June and lasts till September. The monsoon features intense flooding of the region. Winter beings in October and lasts till January. Even this season features moderate temperature, it can get cold sometimes.
The last time KTWR came into the spotlight was when Gangetic dolphin's were spotted in the lake system. The reserve is home to the endangered Gharial crocodile and is the perfect habitat for various migratory birds.
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Exploring The Unexplored - Part II
We travel for various reasons. Some do it to recreate, while others to discover oneself and the world. It is a unique process that allows us to understand life and its multiple folds. Nepal’s potential as a great retreat is a fact known to all. But within the explored lies countless other places which await you.
The Barun Valley
Province: Province 1
Distance from Kathmandu: 173 km
Accessibility
By Road: 12 hour bus ride to Tumlingtar
By Air: Land at Tumlingtar Airport- 2 hours then a 3 hour drive
Attractions: Panoramic vista of the Himalayas, Makalu Himal- 5th highest mountain in the world, Makalu Base Camp, Salpa Pokhari, Thulo Pokhari, Barun Pokhari, Dudh Pokhari, Shiva Dhara, Kirat culture and monuments, plethora of flora and fauna.
The great himalayan outback is pristine and unexplored. Much of this great space is unknown to travellers. This remoteness has helped preserve the regions authenticity but it has also hindered it from advancing and truly meeting its tourism potential. Amongst such destinations is the Barun Valley. This beautiful valley, something straight out of a sci-fi plot is magical. It features breathtaking views of the great panoramic vista, and exotic flora and fauna species. This valley is located at the base of Mt. Makalu in the Sankhuwasabha district of Nepal. It is a part of Makalu Barun National Park.
This valley was created by the Barun River. In terms of inhabitants, historians believe that it was previously inhabited by Yakkha and Limbu people centuries ago. This valley is also mentioned in the ancient Buddhist books- seven Beyul (Nghe- Beyul Khimpalung). This book mentions great mystical lands in the Himalayas where no one gets old. It is said that if a great cataclysm occurs, these seven areas of the world will only survive. One of the seven Beyul is said to be situated in the Makalu- Barun region. Historians state that it could well be this pristine valley.
Palpa
Province: Lumbini
Distance from Kathmandu: 273.7 km
Accessibility:
By Road: 8 hours and 14 minutes
By Air: Land at Gautam Buddha International Airport in Bhairahawa and drive 2 hours and 24 minutes to reach Palpa region
Attractions: Argeli Palace, Rambha Devi Temple, Ranighat Palace (Ranimahal), Rishikesh Complex, Tansen Bazzar, Bhairabsthan Temple (Tansen Bhairab), Shrinagar Hill, Tansen Durbar
Travel Season: Throughout the year
The region of Palpa has much to offer in multiple genres of tourism. The potential of this region as a religious site along with sightseeing and cultural tourism is strong. The central attraction of this place is the hill station of Tansen. In 2008 AD, UNESCO added this area to its tentative list for World Heritage in the cultural category.
The whole of Palpa has a strong note of Magar culture, but there is Newar influence in multiple locales. The souvenir of this region has always been Palpali Dhaka. It is a unique cloth produced by the local Newars. One of the most famous landmarks is the “Golghar”, an octagonal pavilion in the middle of Sitalpati, the main market square. Srinagar hill is a popular viewpoint that offers a beautiful panorama of the high Himalayas. Peaks such as Dhaulagiri, Tukuche, Nilgiri, Annapurna, Himchuli and others are visible on a clear day.
The unique fusion of Palpa makes it a great destination. It offers something for all genre of travellers, which has always been its greatest strength. Exploring the core settlements of Tansen at times makes you feel like you are in Kathmandu due to the strong influence of Newar culture.
This trek is specially designed to reach the Everest Base Camp including Kala Pattar which is the best view point to view the sunrise over the high Himalayas including the Mt. Everest. This trek requires 13 days.
USD 1515 PER PERSON -- TWIN ROOM SHARING BASIS