Asian Safari Destination Nepal

Nepal’s amazing biodiversity, on account of the fact that the elevation ranges from 70 meters above sea level in the Terai to 8,848 meters (Mt. Everest), and that this range is within less than 400 kilometers distance, assures a wealth of different fauna within areas that aren’t very far from each other. 

Nepal is rich in bird species, with Shivpuri, Pokhara, Chitwan, Lumbini, and Koshi Tappu being the prime locations to view more than 870 species of birds. Koshi Tappu, the first Ramsar (wetland) site to be developed in the country, is a birdwatcher’s paradise, and on a two-week tour, you may see a many as 300 species. Along with the wetlands, the Sapta Koshi River provides refuge for many migratory birds and waterfowls, including the elegant white Ibis. 

Nepal has around 20 globally endangered bird species, which include the lesser Adjutant Storshoi, but at the same time, specie like the barn owl, which is in the danger list in many countries due to rampant use of harmful chemicals, is pretty safe here. Also safe is the Eurasian large owl. However, the Terai’s white rumped vulture is not safe. Many have died because of indiscriminate use of the pain-killer Diclofenac Sodium (which has a toxic effect on the kidneys) on livestock, the carcasses of which vultures gorge on.

The Eurasian Griffon, black kite (of Mustang), and the Lammergeuer (an eagle with a three-meter wing span that soars over the Himalayan valley and is known as the protector of the Himalayas), are particularly interesting bird species found in Nepal. The Sarus crane of Lumbini, among the large variety of cranes, and tallest of flying birds, is believed to be the harbinger of bumper harvests and a happy conjugal life. During the second week of October, one may see the Demoiselle crane (karyang kurung), a migratory bird that travels from Dar E Salaam, over the Himalayas, and on to Gujarat and Rajasthan. As for the butterfly; experts state that Nepal has about 650 species. It’s an amazing number or such a small country. 

Coming to four legged creatures, the Suklaphanta Reserve has the largest herd of swamp deer (Bara Singhe), while other deer like chital and hog deer are found aplenty throughout the country. The Blue Bull, largest antelope of the sub continent is also found in Nepal, as is found the fierce arna (ancestors of the domestic buffaloes) although they number only a few hundreds, if that. The Gaur bison, the world’s biggest wild cattle, is to be found in the Churiya hills, although many have succumbed to foot and mouth disease. 

Regarding the endangered one-horned rhino, although the scenario was bleak during the 1950s and 1960s, conservation efforts have paid good dividends, and now there is quite a good growth in their number. In addition to this rare species of wildlife, the presence of royal Bengla tigers, sloth bear, Himalayan black bear, brown bear, wild boar, common leopard, clouded leopard, snow leopard, red pandas, jharal (himalayan mountain goat), bharal (blue sheep), etc. justify Nepal’s claim as an Asian safari destination. 

Revisiting the History of Nepal Part 3

In 1972, the 27-year-old Eton-educated Birendra became king after his father’s untimely death, and in 1979, he held a referendum to choose between the Panchayat system and a multiparty one. The former garnered 55% of the votes, while the multiparty faction received 45 percent. Of course, the latter were unhappy with the result, and they continued pushing for change. In early 1990, over 200,000 people demonstrated on the streets of the capital. They were met by bullets and tear gas, and thousands were arrested. On April 9, the king conceded to lifting the ban on political parties, and on April 16, he agreed to become a constitutional monarch. An interim government was formed by the opposition. 

Some years later, in 1996, the Maoists, who were thoroughly disenchanted by the corrupt practices of those in power, declared a 'people's war', which began in the poverty-stricken regions of far-west Nepal. It was an insurgency that steadily gathered momentum throughout the country. Then, on June 1, 2001, an event occurred that shocked not only all Nepalis, but the entire world. At one of the regular family gatherings in the Narayanhiti Palace in Kathmandu, Crown Prince Dipendra apparently gunned down most members of the royal family, sparing just a few. To add to this grief, the political situation in the country turned from bad to worse, with personal enrichment becoming the norm for politicians, and the Maoist war raging unabated in the countryside. 

Thus it was that, in February 2005, King Gyanendra, one of the survivors of the palace massacre along with his family, and who had been crowned king, declared a state of emergency and dissolved parliament. He gave his word that there would be return to democracy within three years, but he wasn’t to have that time. In April 2006, following massive and sustained demonstrations, he was compelled to restore parliament, and the very next month, the first promulgation of the reinstated parliament was to reduce him to a figurehead without any powers. Later, that year, the government succeeded in forging a peace deal with the Maoists, who then went on to win in the ensuing election held on April 10, 2008. One month later, the new parliament voted to abolish monarchy (560 votes to four), and a new government was formed under Maoist leader Pushpa Kamal Dahal (a.k.a. Prachanda).

Well, as is obvious, new pages are being added to Nepal’s history with amazing rapidity. The country has a new name now: Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal. The Constitutional Assembly elections that were held for the first time some six years ago put over 600 members in the Assembly. However, in its four year’s mandated time, it couldn’t come up with a new constitution, and another election had to be called for. This time around, the major parties in the Assembly agreed to act as one in ensuring that a new constitution was made, which they did some months ago. But, instead of improving the situation, it has led to a complete shutdown of the country, with the Terai (Madhesh) parties crying foul that the agreements with them have not been honored, and resorting to a continuous bandh (shutdown) for the last two months, along with blockage of the major transit points with India, resulting in acute shortage of fuel, especially, in the country. There’s a general feeling that India is hand in glove in ensuring the success of the blockade. 

As in 1950, when it was the capital of the revolutionary Nepali Congress provisional government, Birgunj, today, is also the focal point of the Madhesh movement, it being by far the most important transit point with India. And, interestingly, Kerung, from where Chinese troops once invaded Nepal in 1792, has become a focal point for opening trade routes to China, so as to reduce the dependency on India. History has a peculiar way of bringing up old scenarios to the forefront again.

Revisiting the History of Nepal Part 2

During that time, however, a ruler of the tiny hilltop kingdom of Gorkha, King Prithvi Narayan Shah, was setting out on his quest to unify the country, and in A.D. 1768, he took over Kathmandu, and then, Kirtipur, one year later. He set up his capital in Kathmandu, and thus began the dynasty of the Shah rulers, who reigned for almost 240 years over the country now known as Nepal. In the initial stages, within six years of taking over Kathmandu Valley, Prithvi Narayan Shah’s victorious Gorkha army conquered eastern Nepal, as well as the adjoining state of Sikkim. Next, it turned its attention westwards into Kumaon and Garhwal in India, where a one-eyed Punjabi king named Ranjit Singh just about managed to stop them at the Punjab border.

It was a heady time for the new kingdom, with its army winning one battle after the other, and with new territory being added with every victory. But, in 1792, an excursion into Tibet was not so successful, a bit too much adventure for the valiant Gorkha army to swallow, and they suffered defeat at the hands of a large Chinese army, which then advanced to within 35 km of Kathmandu, advancing down from the Kerung Valley. Leaving this unfortunate episode aside, Nepal had expanded considerably by now, its borders stretching from Kashmir to Sikkim. 

Of course, as with everything else, all good things had to come to an end, and the Gorkha’s exploits eventually brought them face-to-face with the all-powerful British Raj in India, resulting in the first Anglo-Nepali war that carried on for two-years, with the British finally emerging victorious. However, the amazing fighting spirit of the Gorkha’s was admirable, and so, the British began to recruit Gorkhas into their own army. At the same time, they also came up with the Sugauli Treaty of 1816 that halted Nepal’s expansionist ambitions, and drew its modern boundaries. This meant giving up Sikkim, Kumaon, Garhwal, and a substantial part of the Terai.  In 1858, to show their appreciation of Nepal’s support in putting down the Indian Mutiny, some of this land was restored.

In between all this, King Prithvi Narayan Shah died in 1775, and his death led to intrigue-riddled succession struggles, which culminated in the Kot Massacre of 1846 that was engineered by Jung Bahadur, a young nobleman of the Chhetri clan. He, with the queen's consent, arranged for the massacre by his soldiers of hundreds of noblemen, soldiers, and courtiers who were made to assemble, under some pretext, in the Kot courtyard near Kathmandu Durbar Square. Next, Jang Bahadur exiled thousands of the murdered victims’ families to ensure that there were no revenge attacks. The result was that the Shah dynasty was pushed into the sidelines, with Jung Bahadur’s dynasty becoming all powerful. Changing his family name to the more prestigious one of Rana, he claimed for himself the designation of Prime Minister, and later, entitled himself maharajah, a title that would henceforth be hereditary. Thus, the Ranas became another ‘royal family' within the kingdom, keeping a firm hold on the rein of power, and this they continued to do for another 100 years. The Shah kings became mere figureheads.

Finally, in late 1950, King Tribhuvan Bir Bikram Shah took refuge in the Indian embassy, and was flown to India. At the same time, a political party called Nepali Congress led by a man called B.P. Koirala succeeded in forcibly taking control of most parts of the Terai, where they established a provisional government with its capital in Birgunj. In 1951, the king returned to Nepal and established a new government made up of Nepali Congress party members and some demoted Ranas. In 1955, the king died, and was succeeded by his son, Mahendra. In 1959, the country held its first general election, as per the provisions of the new constitution that provided for a parliamentary system. The Nepali Congress, expectedly, won, and B.P. Koirala became the new prime minister. It was a short-lived reign, however, because in late 1960, the king took over complete control, and had the cabinet thrown into jail. He then established a party-less Panchayat (council) system in 1962, and banned political parties.

Revisiting the History of Nepal Part 1

Nepal has a proud history of never having been colonized by external forces, unlike many other nations of the world, including its two closest neighbors, China and India. This proximity between such large countries also meant that Nepal has enjoyed a geographical advantage by being a neutral route between the two, a route utilized through the ages by traders, travelers, and pilgrims. This gave Nepal a measure of prosperity and self sufficiency in the days of yore. However, with modernity came modern needs, and it is as clear as day that today Nepal is completely at the mercy of outsiders when it comes to fulfilling its energy needs, without which there is total collapse not only of progress and prosperity, but even of conducting everyday life. 

In this background, it would be interesting to revisit this small nation’s history if only to indulge in a bit of nostalgia. Though Nepal’s modern history begins in the 18th century, its recorded history begins in the 7th or 8th century B.C., with the coming of the Kiratis, a Mongoloid people, from the east to Kathmandu Valley, which they ruled. The first of the 29 Kirati kings was King Yalambar, whose name is mentioned in the Mahabharata. In the 6th century, a momentous event occurred in the country. A prince was born in Kapilvastu, near Lumbini, in the southwest terai. He was Siddhartha Gautama, who in young manhood, renounced all he had, including his family and his title, to embark on a path of meditation that led him become the Buddha, ‘The Enlightened One’. 

The religion he created, Buddhism, however, declined down the ages, with Hinduism reasserting itself along with the coming of the Licchavis from north India. These new arrivals, in A.D. 300, overthrew the Kiratis, who returned to the east. The Licchavis were culturally progressive, and between the 4th and 8th centuries, they introduced and established many cultural aspects to life in Kathmandu Valley. One of the oldest testimonies to their cultural brilliance is the Changu Narayan Temple, located north of Bhaktapur, where one will find many fine examples of wood, stone, and metal craft, aside from architecture. The Licchavis are also credited with making many of the original stupas of Swoyambhunath and Boudhanath. 

In A.D. 602, the first Thakuri king, Ansuverma, came to power, and he was as astute a ruler as one would find anywhere. To ensure consolidation of his power in the north and south, he married his sister to a prince of India, and his daughter, Bhrikuti, to King Songsten Gompo of Tibet. In the 10th century, King Gunakamadeva found Kantipur (later, Kathmandu). Around A.D. 1200, the valley saw the emergence of the first of the Malla kings, whose dynasty carried on for the next 550 years, a period of progress and prosperity in all spheres. The valley was united by King Jayashithi Malla (A.D. 1382-1395), who then codified the laws. 

However, in A.D. 1482, after the death of King Yaksha Malla, his sons divided the valley among themselves into three kingdoms: Kathmandu (Kantipur), Bhaktapur (Bhadgaon), and Patan (Lalitpur). The rest of the country, as it was then, consisted of about 50 independent states scattered from Palpa to Jumla, as well as two semi-independent states, that is, Pharping and Banepa.  The three kingdoms of the valley competed with each other for excellence, and this was manifested most obviously in the building of temples and monuments. King Pratap Malla (1641-74) of Kantipur stands out, specially, in this regard, with Hanuman Dhoka Palace and Rani Pokhari being two of his most famous creations.

King Jaya Prakash Malla, in 1750, built the Kumari (Living Goddess) Temple, and not long after, another grand example of Newari architecture was built in Bhaktapur, that is, the famous Nayatpola Temple. Doubtless, the Malla era gave birth to most of the artistic and architectural wonders that define Kathmandu Valley today, with some of them being listed as world heritage site monument zones by UNESCO in the 1990s. Many of the valley’s festivals, too, originated during the Malla period, two well known examples being the vibrant chariot festivals of Indra Jatra and Machhendranath. Indeed, the Malla period was a golden period in Nepal’s history, or more precisely, in the history of Kathmandu Valley. However, all that was to change soon with the arrival of King Prithvi Narayan Shah of Gorkha. 

Trek to Ghalegaun Village

The Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) trek is a very popular trek; most trekkers put it right up there with the best in the world. However, this time around, let’s take the route northwest of the main ABC trek trail, and visit a lovely little village called Ghalegaun (2,016 m). This short trek is also very popular, especially for those pressed for time, since you can do it in a matter of just three to four days.

It all begins by driving down from Kathmandu to a bustling town called Besisahar; should take around six to seven hours. From there, the trail goes alongside the Marsyangdi River to Khudi (2,493 m), and then meanders along the Khudi River, before climbing steeply for four to five hours. Once you are at the top, you’ll get to see awesome sunsets and sunrises over the lofty Annapurna and Manaslu ranges. That aside, you’ll be coming across lovely waterfalls on the way, and walking across swinging suspension bridges, besides hiking through some very charming villages that are made all the more picturesque by the surrounding terraced paddy fields, bamboo groves, and rhododendron forests.

It will take you some seven hours to reach Ghalegaun from Khudi, but what a seven hours it’s going to be! Stunning views of ice-capped Himalayan peaks will certainly mesmerize you. And, these are really tall peaks, such as, Annapurna I (8,091m), Annapurna II (7,939 m), Annapurna IV (7,525 m), Bouddha Himal (6,974 m), Himalchuli (6,747 m), and Machhapuchchhre (6,693 m). Just so you know, Annapurna I is the 10th highest peak in the world. 

Ghalegaun, snuggled in the midst of green hills and surrounded by majestic Himalayan peaks, is home to the Gurungs, who have earned name and fame for their martial prowess. They are one of the major ethnicities that go to make the fearsome Gurkhas. However, away from the battlefield, they are some of the most hospitable, polite, jocular, and friendly people you’ll find anywhere. This, you’ll see for yourself when you are in Ghalegaun, more so, because you’ll be most probably staying in a homestay, meaning that you’ll be living with a local family in their home, and sharing meals and experiences. 

The homestay arrangements have been fine tuned in Ghalegaun, whereby, even if you are living with a family, you are assured of complete privacy and most modern amenities. A walk through the village in the evening takes you along cobblestoned paths between traditionally made houses huddled close together. You’ll get plenty of people to talk to you, and dodging lots of chickens on the way. A night’s stay is often rewarded with a cultural program, where you’ll be treated to traditional songs and dances performed with youthful vigor.

Back in your home, a nice dinner awaits you: customary dishes like dhindo (a porridge-like food made from a mixture of maize and wheat) and kukhura ko masu (chicken curry) with vegetable, spinach, pickle, and so on. You’ll also find the setting to be quite agreeable: sitting on the floor with the glow of the cooking fire providing light, and pleasant light-hearted conversation all around. You go to bed quite early. You don’t want to miss out on one of the primary highlights of your trek, that is, watching the fabulous sunrise over the lofty peaks, and to view these peaks in the early morning light when the view is the cleanest. So, at the crack of dawn, you’ll be up on the tower on the nearby hill with a hot mug of tea in your hand. Don’t blink now, because sunrise is an event that occurs without warning, and you’ll find the dark sky suffused with sunlight in an instant.  

Savor the moment; savor the feeling of tranquility that falls upon your senses as you watch the breaking of a new dawn. Soon enough, everything—the mountains, the valley, the rivers, Ghalegaun village—present themselves to your sight, all at their pristine best. It’s a fantastic experience. You’ll also see far-off Besisahar, from where you started your trek, so clear is the air, and thus, the view. After you have captured memories for a lifetime in your camera, you walk back to your home, where there’s some serious breakfast waiting for you. Again, delight in traditional Gurung fare like kodo ko sel (round shaped bread made of barley) and rajma ko tarkari (bean curry), along with plenty of steaming hot tea.

Having fortified yourself, you are ready to make a more thorough exploration of Ghalegaun, where you’ll discover ancient shrines and even a dhunge dhara (stone spout). On the hills around, you’ll come across grazing donkeys and horses. You’ll be delighted, no doubt, to know that the village also has a museum, where you can see traditional wear of the Gurungs, ancient and not so ancient tools used in agriculture, photographs of mud houses that once served as their homes, and so on. You will also be surprised to see a large sized tea garden that’s situated some distance away from the village. 

After your pleasant sojourn in this lovely village, you might want to extend your trek, to Ghanapokhara, which is a one-hour walk, and Bhujung (two-and-a-half-hours). The trail then goes uphill for some three hours to Khumre Danda (2,000 m), before descending to the Mandi River, and then to Pakhrikot (6 hours). From there, you walk to Thusmsikot and take a ride to Pokhara.

Copper in their Veins, the Tamrakars

When I was working on “Treasures of Nepal”, a book profiling national award winning artists/craftspeople of Kathmandu, I discovered that many of them lived in some pretty historic places. One such artist-cum-craftsperson is Mr. Chin Kazi Tamrakar, whose house is right behind the famous Kasthmandap Temple in Maru, next to Kathmandu Durbar Square, after which Kathmandu city was named. According to the octogenarian, the locality is inhabited by people of the Tamrakar clan, and 28 Tamrakar families live there currently. The famous temple was brought down to rubble by the devastating April 25 earthquake, and many of the houses in the locality have been damaged severely. While restoration of the temple is of prime concern today, there are also serious discussions going on about how to go about repairing the damaged houses of the Tamrakar locality. This is because all the houses are linked to each other, and anything done on one house is sure to affect the other. It’s all a bit challenging, one can be sure of that. 

That having been said, the Tamrakar community in Maru is only a small part of the whole. Known as ‘Tamo’ or ‘Tamot’ in ‘Nepal Bhasa’ (Newari), the Tamrakars are widespread within and outside the valley, but mostly concentrated in the heart of Patan. As everybody knows, the Newars, especially those of Patan (or, Lalitpur, the ‘city of the arts’) are renowned for their artistic skills, and there are many different clans, each specializing in a certain vocation. The Tamrakars’ vocation is making copperware. The word ‘Tamrakar’ is derived from ‘tama’ meaning copper, and ‘aakar’ meaning shape or, to give shape.

Mr. Chin Kazi discloses that, once upon a time, the entire Maru Tamrakars were involved in copper work, but now they have all discontinued the profession. And, while his own family has a couple of workshops, they now only do work in silver nowadays. He himself is famous as a repousse artist, and as the pioneering maker of trophies in the country. However, as mentioned above, most of the Tamrakars are concentrated in the heart of Patan. If you wander along the streets south of the Patna Durbar Square, you will discover a row of shops displaying copper, brass, and bronze ware, and most probably, the names of these shops will have the word, ‘Tamrakar’ or ‘Tamot’ in them, for example, “Tamot Traders” in Tangal, and “Tamrakar Handicrafts” in Chakrabahil. As a matter of interest, one of the oldest such shops established was in Haugal by Mr. Tirtha Lal Tamrakar, whose grandson looks after “Tamot Traders”. Unlike Maru’s Tamrakar families, in Patan, the Tamrakars continue to do business as usual, making beautiful copper items down the generations. 

While, originally, the Tamrakars mostly made household utensils and ritual items for worship, later on, they were drawn towards more artistic work involving various integral requirements of temple architecture, which of course also included deity images. You may have noticed the intricate toranas above temple doorways; they are mostly repousse works in copper, made by skillful repousse artists like Mr. Chin Kazi Tamrakar. Likewise, the deity figures, too, are made of copper, or its major alloys, bronze and brass. It is interesting to note here that, previously (before 1955, or thereabouts), nobody in the valley made deity figures using copper, mainly because it was difficult to attain the high degree of heat required to melt it. This is where a man called Mr. Bhim Shakya, a chiseler of acclaim (81 years old now), who leaves in the premises of the beautiful Rudrayana Mahavihar in Okubahal of Patan, came into the picture. Realizing the absence of copper figures, on which much finer chiseling and face painting could be done, compared to brass and bronze, he figured out that the valley craftsmen didn’t know how to bring in coal, which could ensure the high degree of heat required to melt copper. He went about doing the needful, and commissioned sculptors to make copper statues that he would embellish with his fine chiseling and painting skills.

Besides household utensils, deity images, toranas, and other temple decorative items, gagaris, ghyampas, and so on, ritual items for worship (by both Hindus and Buddhists) make up a significant part of the Tamrakars’ work. These include ‘mana’ (prayer wheel), ‘dhupdani’ (incense holder), ‘bhumbha’ and ‘sherkem’ (small vessels for holy water), ‘pauwahi’ (a vessel to contain rice for holy offering), ‘panas’ (tall-standing lamp), ‘kotaha’ and ‘kalaha’ (to carry puja items), ‘khadelu’ (hanging oil lamp), etc. Early in the mornings, and during festivals, you’ll see plenty of women carrying such items, on their way to some temple or the other. While such ritual items continue to make their presence felt, there’s a definite decline in the use of household utensils made of copper, due to the availability of more modern kitchenware. Be that as it may, there is a certain exoticism about copper utensils, which is why you’ll see plenty of them being used as decorative items in both houses and hotels. Copper has a charm all its own, that’s for sure! And, the Tamrakars of Patan will keep on at their traditional vocation, no doubt about it.   

Conquering Everest

There are some dates in history that have become landmarks in the passage of time of our world. One such date is Friday, May 29, 1953. This was when man stepped for the first time atop the highest point on earth, Mount Everest (8,848 m), a.k.a. Sagarmatha, in Nepal. Actually, it was not one man, but two, Tenzing Sherpa, 39, and Edmund Hillary, 33, who have the credit, jointly, for being the first to conquer Everest. It was a long time in coming, since Everest had been identified as the highest peak on earth way back in 1852. 

In the six decades since (1953-2013), a total of 5099 ascents have been recorded, with 3144 climbers from 83 countries succeeding in achieving this singular feat, while 227 climbers perished during the expeditions. Successful climbers have included a fair number of women, along with a few physically challenged climbers, octogenarians, and teenagers. With the passage of time, climbing equipment and techniques have improved considerably, routes have been well defined, and conditions better understood and analyzed, with the result that critics have been forced to say that climbing Everest is no more the great challenge it once used to be.

So it is understandable that the Nepal government has issued a directive that anyone wishing to climb Everest will have to prove their experience in climbing high altitude mountains before attempting a summit of the highest peak in the world. The last couple of years have not been good years for climbing Everest, with a record number of deaths, and the devastating earthquake this year on April 25. A Japanese climber, aiming to be the first to summit this year after the earthquake, failed to do so, and had to abandon the ascent. 

Looking back again to history, there were some serious attempts made by the British to summit Everest since 1852. The eighth attempt, in 1953, was made by a Royal Geographical Society Alpine Club team led by John Hunt. The expedition included 13 climbers and 35 Sherpa guides, and 350 porters to carry 18 tons of food and climbing equipment. On May 26, 1953, Tom Bourdillon and Charles Evans almost reached the peak, but had to turn back just 300 feet short of the summit due to the failure of one of their oxygen masks. Three days later, Tenzing and Hillary achieved the feat, becoming the first two to conquer Everest. 

On May 23, 1956, Swiss climbers Ernst Schmied and Juerge Marmet posted their names in history as the third and fourth summiteers to climb Everest, and on May 25, 1960, three Chinese mountaineers, Wang Fu Chou, Konbu, and Chu Ying Hua, reached the summit from its more difficult northern side for the first time. Nawang Gombu of India, the 10th summitteer to conquer Everest, was the first man to do it twice, in 1963 and 1965. In 1973, Sambhu Tamang, 18, became the youngest climber to summit Everest, and in 1978, Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler became the first to do so without the use of bottled oxygen. 

On May 16, 1975, Junko Tabei of Japan became the first woman to reach the summit, and in April 22, 1993, Pasang Lhamu Sherpa became the first Nepali woman to reach top of the world, but tragically, she died on the way down. In 2000, Pemba Doma Sherpa became the first Nepali woman to climb Everest via its north face, and she went on to climb it a record six times, the last one in 2007. Unfortunately, she lost her life when she fell from a height of 8,000 m while climbing Lhotse later. The first woman to climb Everest from both sides is Maya Sherpa, while Ming Kipa Sherpa became the world’s youngest woman to conquer Everest, on May 24, 2003, at the age of fifteen. Her 31-year-old sister, Lhakpa Chiri, who had already summitted in 2001, accompanied her. On May 30, 2005, Moni Mulepati, 24, became the first non-Sherpa Nepali woman to climb Everest. InMay 2008, the ‘First Inclusive Women Sagarmatha Expedition 2008 Spring’ (Sushmita Maskey, Maya Gurung, Usha Bisht, Chunu Shrestha, Shailee Basnet, Pemadiki Sherpa, Nawang Phutti Sherpa, Nimdoma Sherpa, and Asha Kumari Singh Chaudhary).succeeded in reaching the summit. And, Churrim Sherpa became the first woman to summit Everest twice within a single season (May 12 and 19, 2012). 

Well, it’s been a long time since that day man first stepped on the highest point on earth, and the pioneers, Tenzing Norgay Sherpa and Edmund Hillary, have already passed away (on May 9, 1986, at 72, and in 2008 at 88, respectively), but Everest still holds a formidable challenge to men and women everywhere, notwithstanding modern developments in climbing.

Nepal’s Most Popular Festival, Tihar

Ask any Nepali what their favorite festival is, and chances are that most of them will say, Tihar. Also known as Deepawali (festival of lights), it’s a really fun festival lasting five days, during whichtime, dogs, crows, cows, Goddess Laxmi (goddess of wealth), oxens, and brothers are worshipped on different days. And, yes, in the order mentioned above. 

November 9, the first day of Tihar, is known as Kag (Crow) Tihar. Now, if you are wondering why crows, of all birds, should be so honored, know that they are the messengers of Lord Yamaraj, the god of death. So, people try and ensure that these deadly messengers don’t carry the wrong message to their master, by feeding them delicious tidbits on at least one day of the year. A plate full of such delicacies is kept outside in the courtyard or the terrace of every Hindu household. 

November 10 is Kukur (Dog) Tihar. Dogs get their deserved due on this day, and you’ll see all sorts of dogs, even some of the X-breeds on the streets, with a garland of marigold around their necks, and with bright red tikas on their furry heads. They are treated to teeth gnashing, lip smacking morsels especially prepared for them. Most people feed them a couple of boiled eggs along with other delicacies. Now, you might be thinking that it’s a day to show one’s gratitude towards dogs for being such loyal friends, but there’s more to it than that. Dogs are believed to guard the gates to the netherworld, and their master is yes, the lord of death, Yamaraj himself! So, it’s a good idea to ingratiate oneself with animals so well connected with death. Everybody dies. Remember?

November 11 is Gai (Cow) Tihar. The cow, a most sacred animal for Hindus, has always been the national animal of Nepal (a Hindu kingdom for ages), yet, there were some who believed that this would change in the newly promulgated constitution of the now secular Nepal. However, it has retained its honored position as the nation’s national animal, and so you can imagine that Gai Tihar is a very important day. The cow is a fantastic animal, giver of so many provisions, from nourishing milk to holy manure to soul purifying urine. 

November 11 is also Laxmi Puja, simply the most important day in the lives of all Hindus, for this is the when you get to invite the goddess of wealth, Laxmi, into your humble, or not-so-humble, abode. This is the day when villages and towns and cities twinkle and sparkle with brightly colored lights, and all houses are decorated with strands of marigold garlands over doorways, windows, etc. In the golden days of simpler times, people illuminated their houses with rows and rows of diyos (small earthen vessels with cotton wicks dipped in oil), and it was a tremendously satisfying sight to behold. Nowadays, most houses are illuminated with twinkling strands of electric lights. Still, that is not to say that diyos are not used, they are, but to a lesser degree. Oil has become pretty expensive, don’t you know?

Anyway, the main thing to know is that all homes undergo a thorough cleaning, new curtains are put up, as are new bedsheets, and so forth, and those who can, have their houses repainted. The purpose of all this hard work is to make sure that Goddess Laxmi finds your home up to her standards to pay a visit. To double make sure, she is worshipped with much pomp and fanfare in the evening, with lots of sweetmeats and cash offerings. A female member of the household dips her hands in red mud and imprints them in front of the main doorway, making a trail leading to the puja room. People are expected to try out their luck on this day, and so there’s a fair bit of gambling in many homes, with card games like flush, paplu, and marriage being the favored card games. 

November 12 is Goru (Oxen) Tihar, also known as Govardhan (literally, cowdung wealth) Puja. Cow dung has many significant uses: as manure, fuel, and biogas, and for cleansing the courtyards and other surroundings of houses, and plastering mud walls of village houses, etc.

November 13 is Bhai (Brother) Tika, a day when brothers are invited to their sisters’ homes to be worshipped. The symbolism is clear:  brothers are supposed to be their sisters’ protectors, and they are therefore duly appreciated for this on Bhai Tika. This day is the last day of Tihar, so everybody takes it a bit easy. The puja of the brother is a long drawn out affair, with a lot of merrymaking. Lots of foodstuffs are offered to the brother, plenty of fruits and dry fruits, sweetmeats, homemade traditional bread (sel roti) and other sweets, fried fish and meat, yogurt, alcohol, etc. The sister gets cash or other gifts in return.  

There are other asides of this fun festival, with song and dance being the highlights. Girls go to homes in their neighborhood in groups, and dance to the singing of songs known as bhailo. Boys, similarly, go around singing songs known as deusi while some of them dance. They receive cash and foodstuff for their efforts. Another highlight is the setting off of firecrackers on Laxmi Puja day; literally, millions of rupees go up in fire, smoke, and thunder on this day! Dancing, singing, gambling, feasting, firecrackers…indeed, there’s a lot of reasons why Tihar is the most popular festival of Nepal. 

There’s a Festive Air in Nepal

As I write this, all the factories and workshops and wherever mechanical implements are used in Nepal are festooned with colorful pennants. Owners and workers alike are enjoying a holiday to commemorate Viswakarma, the divine architect and carpenter, one of whose major achievements was the creation of Dwarka city, the birthplace of Lord Krishna, and who is credited with designing and making numerous weapons for the gods of the Hindu pantheon. A statue of the god is installed in the above-mentioned establishments and homage is paid with worship and offerings. This festival is known as Viswakarma Puja.

This day, too, women are flocking to temples to cleanse themselves of any sins committed, consciously or unconsciously, during the year, by worshipping the Sapta Rishis (seven powerful sages; namely, Atri, Bharadvaja, Gautama, Jamadagni, Kasyapa, Vashishta, and Vishwamitra), whose figures are made using cow dung. This day is known as Rishi Panchami, and it is the culmination of the Teej festival that was observed with great joy over the last three days. The women take a purification bath before sunrise in a sacred river such as the Bagmati. In Kathmandu, the focal point is a particular temple in Teku, where a fair is also held on the day. According to tradition, the women are supposed to scrub themselves with mud from beneath an elephant’s foot, along with roots of the tulsi and amala plants. Teeth are brushed vigorously with the stem of an herbal tree (datiyon), and leaves of this tree are also part of the offerings to the sages.

Now, to add to the festive air, the powers-that-be have requested all the countrymen and women to observe the promulgation of the new Constitution on September 20 by lighting lamps in their homes. It’s also a holiday, as perhaps September 21 is too, when the government has planned all sorts of celebratory events. Only thing is, they might be limited to only some parts of the country, the Terai and many other parts having declared September 20 as a ‘Black Day’, and calling for the people to observe a total blackout in their homes. All in all, the following week will be a very interesting week indeed!

Whatever happens in the coming days, no matter who lights lamps and who observes a blackout, all this will probably not dampen the expectancy of all towards the coming month, when the biggest festival of the country, Dashain, will be celebrated from Oct 13 to Oct 27. In fact, most people will have already started planning for it, beginning this month itself, since for many there’s a lot of travel involved. The major highlight of Dashain is that it brings families together, even if it’s just for a few days. People, no matter where they are, make it a point to visit their ancestral homes to celebrate this great festival with their families.

Dashain lasts for 14 days, beginning with Ghatasthapna on Oct 13, when barley seeds are sown in sand-filled earthen pots in all Hindu household puja rooms. The sand will be brought from nearby riverbanks. A thick-wicked lamp is lighted, as well, and the lamp holder is filled with oil continuously to ensure that it remains lighted for the duration of the lengthy festival. Unlike at other times, when women do the daily puja, during Dashain, a male member does the needful for the period. The barley seeds will sprout into lovely yellow leaves (jamara), which have a significant role on the main day of Dashain, that is, Viajaya Dashami on the tenth day.

The first nine days are known as Navaratri (nava: nine and ratri: night). People wake up early all nine days to visit all the temples dedicated to Goddess Durga and her various incarnations. In all homes, families have hearty meals that include plenty of meat dishes. The seventh day is called Phulpati; it is when jamara is brought in from Gorkha to Kathmandu in a palanquin, escorted by -musket carrying soldiers. This ritual apparently has royal tones, since Gorkha is from where its king, Prithvi Narayan Shah, set out to unify the country. The eighth day (Oct 21) is Maha Asthami, when hundreds of thousands of buffaloes, goats, ducks, and pigeons are sacrificed in Durga temples throughout the country. Young men vie to test their mettle by slicing the necks of buffaloes and goats with a single slice of the khukuri. The night is called Kal Ratri (black night).

The next days is Maha Nawami. It is when soldiers of the Nepal Army perform their own sacrifices at the Hanuman Dhoka courtyard, with officers and foreign dignitaries in full regalia in attendance. The scene is all the livelier with the military band belting out vigorous tunes, and cannons blasting off salutary shots. The Taleju Temple nearby is also a focal point on this day, because its doors will be opened to the public on this particular day only. A lot of devotees will line up patiently for hours to get a rare darshan of Goddess Taleju.

The tenth day is the main day of Dashain. It is called Vijaya Dashami, as well as Tika. Family seniors will put tika (mix of vermillion powder, rice, and curd) on juniors’ foreheads, and offer sweets, fruits, and money, along with some jamara, which will be either put on the head, or behind the ear. After tika is over in their home, people will go visit all their relatives to put on tika and get blessings from elders. It is quite a hectic day, even if it is full of joy. Though it’s the last festival day, the coming four days are also observed as part of Dashain, these four days being used to complete visits to more relatives. The final two days are known as Kojagrat Brata (Oct 26), and Purnima (Oct 27), which is a full moon day, and the end of the greatest festival of Nepal.

Oh yes, there certainly is a festive air around the country, and people are certainly going to have a great time, regardless of the political shenanigans and the aftermath effects of the great earthquake of April 25, 2015.

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Bouncing Back, Nepal’s Season of Recovery

It’s now six months since we were shocked by the biggest earthquake in 80 years in the country. It has been a most eventful six months, with all Nepalis coming together in the momentous task of recovery and rebuilding. Restoration is also on the anvil. Side by side, the Constituent Assembly has passed the new Constitution of Nepal, something that had been awaited for the last 60 years. Just as recovery and rebuilding have not been easy, and are still ongoing, constitution making has also faced many hurdles, which are also still ongoing. The Terai has seen continuous disturbances for many months and there have been tragic loss of many lives.

At the same time, proving the inherent resilience in the nation’s character, people are bouncing back with new zeal and enthusiasm. And nowhere is this more evident than in the joy with which everybody is celebrating, and are determined to celebrate, some of the country’s greatest festivals in this season of festivals. Indeed, it is the season of festivals in Nepal. Here are two of them. 

Teej: September 16

This is a really celebratory occasion, and mostly an all women affair. No doubt all festivals are colorful, but Teej perhaps is the most colorful, with thousands and thousands of married and unmarried women decked out in bright red and ravishing green dresses (mostly saris), with long strings of red, green, and yellow pote (glass beads) necklaces around their neck and shoulders. Celebrated over three days, the main day of Teej is preceded by a lot of feasting. It’s necessary, too, since they have to observe a fast (no food, no water) next day for 24 hours. In fact, the day before, the women are invited to their maternal homes to partake of lots and lots of rich nutritious food, a day known as dar khane din. The feasting goes on till midnight, and is accompanied by singing and dancing by the women present, which includes many female relatives. The day after Teej, the women break their fasts with karkalo ko tarkari (lotus leaves curry) and ritually pure food made in ghiu (clarified butter), after doing some special pujas in which banana and basil leaves play a significant role.

On the main day, they visit a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva; most women of Kathmandu make a beeline for Pashupatinath Temple, one of the biggest Shiva temples in the world, and a UNESCO designated world heritage site monument zone. You can expect a carnival like atmosphere there, with long queues of women waiting to get a darshan of the Shiva Linga inside the famous shrine, and to make their offerings. They will all seek the lord’s blessings for the long life and prosperity of their husbands, as well as of their families. Unmarried women will seek blessings for a husband as greatly endowed as Lord Shiva himself. Teej is celebrated in remembrance of Goddess Parvati’s dedication to acquire Lord Shiva’s affections and companionship for life as her husband. It was an endeavor that required her to fast and pray for a very long time. In the end, Lord Shiva was aroused form his state of deep meditation high up on Mount Kailash, and he couldn’t help himself from falling in love with his determined paramour. 

Indra Jatra: September 27

With the end of the monsoon season, denizens of Kathmandu Valley will pay homage to the god of rain, Lord Indra, to thank him for his benevolence, and to ensure that in the coming year, too, the valley will have plenty of rain. It’s a tradition that has continued from as far back as one can remember. Celebrated over eight days, this festival has many highlights—a procession of chariots, one of which carries the Living Goddess Kumari; the once-a-year display of the giant masks of the gods Swet Bhairava and and Akash Bhairava, with free flowing alcohol pouring out of the former’s mouth during the festival; plenty of traditional dances and dramas, most of them involving masked performers; and huge throngs in Kathmandu Durbar Square, another world heritage site monument zone, where the lively festival is held. 

Indra Jatra is only celebrated in Kathmandu, and its name in Newrai is Yenya, which means “Kathmandu festival”. It’ a festival that historians say was first initiated in the 10th century by King Gunkama Dev to celebrate the founding of Kathmandu city, aside from the rain factor as mentioned above. The first day sees a totem pole (linga) with Lord Indra’s banner flying on top being erected in the renowned square. On the third day, statues of Lord Ganesh and Lord Bhirava, along with Living Goddess Kumari, are taken out on chariots in a regal procession through the old parts of the city. 

This festival includes performance of many types of traditional dances by vigorous dancers. Some of the notable dances being Majipa Lakhey (a demon dance); Devi Pykhan (a masked deity dance); Mahakali Pykhan (a dance of black-furred mythical creatures called khyaks); Sawa Bhakku (dance of Bhairava’s blue incarnation); and so on. The ancient tradition of Dabu Pyakhan (dramas held at street corners) is also upheld. In some temples, a tableau of Lord Vishnu’s 10 incarnations (Dus Avatar) is presented as well.

In Hanuman Dhoka, throngs of men swarm towards the Sweta Bhairava mask to take a few sips of the alcohol flowing out of the giant mask’s mouth. In the meanwhile, in nearby Indra Chowk, another giant mask, that of Akash Bhairava, is also displayed to the public. The festival ends on the eighth day with the bringing down of the linga.

Kathmandu’s Chinese Cuisine with Jin Jin Cheung

While Jin Jin Cheung and I were being treated to a lavish breakfast at Hotel Shanker, the manager, Mr. Bijay Krishna Shrestha, casually mentioned that they also had great Chinese cuisine. Jin Jin was quick to take him up on that, and said that she would like to taste some of the dishes before she left for China. Apparently, her fertile mind had come up with the idea to do an article on Chinese food in some of the swankiest hotels in Kathmandu. We decided on three popular ones, namely, Hotel Shanker, Hotel Yak & Yeti, and Hotel Annapurna, which we thought would be enough to get a good idea of what was on offer in the capital.

We started with Hotel Shanker, where they invited us to a Chinese dinner in the cozy Kailash Restaurant. We were requested to order what we wanted from the big menu. (The hotel hadn’t yet made a separate Chinese cuisine menu, although they had a separate chef specializing in Chinese food. This was something common with the other two hotels, too; that is, no special menu.) Speaking for myself, I thought this was something worth considering, what with the increasing number of Chinese tourists visiting Nepal. However, when I shared this with Jin Jin, she said that most Chinese going abroad first preferred to try out more of Western cuisine, since they were now getting more used to it back in China. An interesting aside here is that, when I took Jin Jin to an Indian tandoori fast food restaurant in Jawalakhel, she really loved the butter naan and chicken tandoori. We visited the place a couple of times, since she relished the Indian dishes. 

Anyway, Jin Jin took her time going over the menu at Hotel Shanker, and made the following selection: Kong Pao Chicken, Sweet and Sour Fish, and Roast Duck (Cantonese style). The Executive Chef, Mr. Keshav, joined us at the table along with Mr. Bijay Krishna, and we spent an interesting 20 minutes or so over pleasant conversation and iced latte coffee. Finally, two waiters came carrying our food. As you can imagine, we were in a pretty famished state by now, and immediately, we dug in. At this point, Mr. Bijay Krishna politely pointed out to Jin Jin that there were chopsticks on the table if she wanted them. Laughingly, she exclaimed that if she stayed some more days in Kathmandu she would forget how to use chopsticks, the fork having become more of a familiar implement since her arrival two months ago.

The Executive chef and manager looked on expectantly, waiting for her pronouncement on the dishes.  The first thing she noted was that we were served long-grain rice along with the other dishes, and she told her attentive audience that, back home in China, people preferred to eat sticky rice. The roast duck, she said, was excellent, and had the authentic Cantonese taste and flavor. The Kong Pao Chicken and Sweet and Sour Fish, too, received her high commendations. We ended our nutritious and tasty meal with delicious ice cream. The Executive chef and the manager, in the meantime, had bid us adieu, and we two sat for a long, long time in the cozy restaurant, just mulling over things in general, feeling sated and relaxed. 

The next day, we went to Hotel Yak & Yeti in Durbar Marg, at the invitation of Associate Director (Marketing) Mr. Surendra Singh Thakuri, for a Chinese lunch. He received us warmly and introduced us to the head chef, who explained that they had all the raw ingredients prepared and ready for cooking. This time, we had left it totally to the hotel to decide on the selection. We were taken to the kitchen, where Jin Jin and I surveyed the neatly cut vegetables, meat, and other ingredients. The head chef asked us if we would like to watch the cooking, and we did so for some minutes, before excusing ourselves to go back to our table where we enjoyed some cool drinks in the restaurant adjoining the lobby.

The food arrived shortly; there were quite a few varieties, and all looked appetizing. As we started tasting the different dishes, including noodles and rice (again, long grained), the general manager joined us. He is an interesting character with an international flair, having come from overseas a year ago to manage the five start hotel. The food was delicious, with the different dishes having distinct flavors. The pork dish was particularly outstanding, in my view, while Jin Jin loved the pickled cucumber side dish. She was happy with the other offerings, as well, and perhaps gave the most suitable compliment by saying that she felt like she was eating in some restaurant in China. (She used the chopsticks more often this time, and tried very sincerely to teach me how to use them, saying that it was ‘simply physics’.) After the meal, the two of us took a stroll around the garden behind the hotel, and visited the organic garden there, which actually wasn’t much. We thought that what we saw grown there would fall far short of the hotel’s daily demands. Anyway, all those delicately prepared Chinese dishes gave us a pleasant glow for a long time afterwards.

We could visit Hotel Annpaurna, also in Durbar Marg, for dinner only after a few days, on account of the Nepal bandh over two consecutive days. The marketing officer, Ms. Suarpana Shah, welcomed us with a warm smile and led us into the Arniko Room, a restaurant with an oriental décor in which the color red predominates. The table setting was exquisite, with elegant looking chopsticks inside paper coverings. Ms. Shah introduced us to the restaurant manager, who presented us with sophisticated looking menus. He suggested fresh strawberry juice to start off with, while Jin Jin cast an expert glance through the menu. However, she decided to ask for the manager’s advice, and he suggested Runner Beans, Who Fish Fried, and Singapore Chicken, along with steamed rice.   

Another marketing lady joined us, and soon, we had a pleasant conversation going, with the focus being on relationships (three women at the table, remember? and a guy always on the lookout for newer relationships!). Anyway, it was enjoyable. The food arrived soon enough, and the fish looked especially impressive, but Jin Jin, our Chinese cuisine expert, said that it didn’t look to be a Chinese dish. Ms. Shah explained that the Arniko Room actually served more of oriental fare, rather than strictly Chinese. It didn’t matter much to me, since I found it to be pretty tasty stuff. 

At the end of the fulfilling meal, we ordered iced litchi for dessert, which was of course fantastic. To the query as to which dish she had liked best, Jin Jin took a few moments to ponder before answering that the Running Beans was what had pleased her the most. Elaborating on this, she explained that she had liked its freshness, that it was not oily, and that it had been only slightly cooked, which made it very nutritious. Her choice made us all think, I think. I doubt if I would have chosen a vegetable over meat and fish, if I had to make a similar choice. 

So, all said and done, Jin Jin was quite happy with the Chinese cuisine at all the three hotels. As for me, it was great to have had the opportunity to be a gourmet of exotic cuisine with such a pretty and knowledgeable expert at my side. She will be writing her reviews in the Chinese edition of ECS NEPAL.

10 Days in Kathmandu with Jin Jin Cheung

2nd part of ‘Two Chinese Girls in Kathmandu’

Having seen off Sun Yang (Emily) on Saturday, Jin Jin was back early in the office the next day. She was pretty perked up, but did have a look of some concern on her bright face; she was probably wondering how fruitful her 10-day extension in Kathmandu would be. Well, as it turned out, it went on to become perhaps the busiest 10-days of her young life, and certainly one of the most interesting. I am glad that I had a big role to play in that.

We planned on visiting some of the Valley’s most accomplished proponents of traditional art and craft. This was something I had to do anyway, since I was working on a book about them for an organization. Jin Jin—as smart as they come, and not one to waste a good opportunity when she sees one—was ever-ready and willing to go wherever and whenever with me. However, before starting on our traditional art and craft odyssey, she wanted to visit the famous Hotel Shanker, a result of her reading some of my articles extolling its many virtues.

The next morning found us driving down the hotel’s long driveway, and then after parking my bike, we carried on to the magnificent Kailash Hall where some NGO program was about to begin. As was her bent, Jin Jin wanted to meet the organizers and ask some questions, which she did. I had to drag her away to meet the hotel manager, Mr. Bijay Krishna Shrestha, in the adjoining banquet area, which also served as a restaurant. He invited us to partake of the munificent breakfast buffet set out on a dozen long tables. 

I should point out here that Hotel Shanker offers complimentary breakfast to all its guests. The genial head chef, Mr. Keshav, joined us, and asserted “Our hotel’s breakfast fare is the best among all hotels here; I take special care to ensure that there’s a lot of variety.” After having tasty morsels of a range of delicacies, we were given a tour of the hotel; some repair works were being undertaken in some parts. However, there was plenty to see, and Jin Jin was enchanted. A stroll in its expansive garden ended our tour of the day in the famous hotel. (We came back later, on a nice evening, to have a great dinner of Chinese cuisine; Jin Jin was doing a review feature of Chinese food in Kathmandu’s hotels for the Chinese edition of ECS NEPAL. More on this later.) 

That evening onwards, we visited the homes and workshops of some of Kathmandu Valley’s greatest artists and craftspeople. We met paubha: painters, repousse artists, stone and metal sculptors, and teachers of traditional art. We spent plenty of time with each, for they were after all the masters of their crafts. Jin Jin never stopped asking questions—Why? How? What? Where?—with Why? being her favorite. So much so, that I started calling her Jin Jin Why? She took careful notes in her exquisite handwriting (Chinese and English), and photos of each and everything. Not only is she one smart cookie, she is a meticulous one, too!

Here are some of the masters we visited: 

Stone sculptor Dharma Raj Shakya, maker of the famous Dharma Raj Shakya lions guarding Basantpur Durbar Square, at his establishment, Arnico Stone Carving, in Patan Industrial Estate. 
Repousse artist, metal sculptor, and trainer of traditional art, Mr. Prachanda Shakya, at his school, Nepal Traditional Handicrafts Training Center, located just below Akheswor Mahavihar in Pulchowk. 
Paubha: painter Lok Chitrakar, whose unbelievably intricate paubhas: are a source of joy here and around the world, at his studio/school, Simrik Atelier in Patan Dhoka. 
Silver repousse artist and trophy-maker Chinikaji Tamrakar, who designed the country’s highest award, Nepal Ratna, at his home/workshop in Maru right behind Kasthmandap. 
Bust and statue maker Bal Krishna Tuladhar, who with his father made the busts of the four martyrs and King Tribhuvan installed at Shahid Gate, in his home cum workshop in Bafal Chowk, Tahachal. 
Metal sculptor Kalu Kumale, who is renowned for his wrathful deity figures, especially Megh Sambhar, at his spacious home cum workshop in Haatiban. 

What’s more, at the invitation of the chairperson of Handicraft Design and Development Center (HANDECEN), Mr. Dharma Raj Shakya, Jin Jin and I also attended a meeting at the organization’s office in Thapathali, where many celebrated artists and craftspeople were present. 

Well, Jin Jin certainly can now claim to be more proficient in Nepal’s traditional art and craft, having spent so many hours with some of the leading lights of the country. Hope she will use her newfound knowledge to promote Nepal’s amazing art and craft in her own country. Let me add that she was most Jin Jin ‘How?’ at Mr. Kalu Kumale’s workshop, where she wanted to know all the how’s of making metal statues through the lost wax method that’s used by most metal sculptors in the valley.

You are probably thinking that, indeed, it seems to have been a busy 10 days, but really, there’s much more we managed to do during this time. For instance, we visited the oldest mari (Newari bread) shops in Maru, where Jin Jin tasted genuine Newari sweetmeats; we sat in Snowman’s Café in Freak Street, digging into its fantastic apple pies and chocolate banana cakes (still exactly same as in those glory days when it was one of the most popular hangouts of hippies high on hashish and marijuana); and yes, we went around town to review the Chinese cuisine at different hotels. You’ll read about it in the next blog. Huítóu jiàn! Zài jiàn! One of them got be right—I meant to say, “See you again, soon”. Maybe I’ll ask Jin Jin.