Discover New Wonders in Lalitpur
No matter how little time you have, do not miss visiting Patan Industrial Estate when in Lalitpur; it’s a proper hotbed of artistic splendor.
When you are visiting Patan, do not—I repeat, do not—miss out on a tour of the Patan Industrial Estate. It is a large sprawling area with hundreds of handicraft establishments where you’ll be able to see the fabled artisans of this “City of the Arts” practicing their ancient crafts. You’ll see stonecarvers chipping away at mammoth blocks of stones to bring them to life in the form of sacred deities, many of which, when finished, will need the help of huge cranes to be transported to their destined sites—perhaps a high hilltop? perhaps a meditation retreat? You’ll see woodcarvers focused totally on carving intricate designs on massive wooden windows destined for some exotic destination—perhaps a hotel in Lhasa? in Beijing? And, you’ll see metalsmiths crouched over huge 100 kg bronze bells, etching out elaborate patterns around the rims; all of them ordained to become a major part of temples and shrines all over the country.
Sometimes, time is of the essence, and a bit of luck comes in handy as well, since you can’t always predict when you’ll be in Nepal, and by the time you are in Patan Industrial Estate, somebody may inform that you about a huge work of art that has been moved just the other day to some far-off site that could be days away. Take, for example, the case of the 3000 kg bronze bell that used to hang next to the doorway of the famous maker of bells, Nepal Dhalaut Udhyog. Well, even today, if you ask for directions to the establishment, most people around will tell you that there’s a massive bell hanging out front. If you go by their words, you’ll be searching forever, because it isn’t there anymore; it was moved some months back to the Muktinath Temple in Bhaktapur. Anyway, aside from all that, imagine what a boost this temple must have got with a 3000 kg bell out front!
The famous bell makers also make other metal sculptures; if you go now, you’ll see a couple of enormous lion-heads made in the Chinese style; you know, the kind you see during those elaborate Chinese festivals, except in this case, they are made of bronze and weigh 500 kg each! Generally, the bells displayed around the place are of three sizes: 25 kg, 50 kg, and 100 kg. It should interest you to know that most of the metal craft are made by craftspeople of Okubahal, a locality near Patan Durbar Square, which, for generations, has spawned the most accomplished metalsmiths of Kathmandu Valley. Actually, this is a unique feature of the “City of the Arts”—each of the old localities is renowned for some particular craft.
Sundhara and Bhinchebahal being two such localities that have most of the remaining 15 or so families involved in stone carving, some of whom you’ll find chipping away at blocks of stones more than 10 feet high at Arnico Stone Carving in Patan Industrial Estate. Now, if size is your thing, as it’s for most ordinary folks, then don’t waste time; they’re in the process of sculpting a 32-ft 40-ton Shakyamuni Buddha statue for a monastery in Mustang of western Nepal. The head alone is going to be six-feet-tall! It’s a commission that has been going on for more than a year already, and will probably take another year or so to be completed. Still, it’s a wondrous experience to see those tough stone carvers chiseling away at the lifeless and implacable blocks of limestone, not knowing how successful they will be in carving out the correct proportions at the end of it all.
However, one can be fairly confident that it’s going to be a great work of art, going by the finished 18-ft tall 10-ton statue of Ganesha that stands out in front. It’s a fantastic work of art, no one can doubt that. In fact, one gets the feeling that it is just waiting for somebody really knowledgeable, and with clout in the world of art, to declare it a ‘masterpiece’. The proportions are lovely, and the aura this colossal Ganesha imparts is such as to make one stare at it in awe for quite some time. But, be warned again, time is of the essence, because it will soon be travelling to far off Tansen, and then there goes your chance to see a modern day masterpiece in stone, the kind Michelangelo would have been proud of. Remember, also, that stone carving is the toughest and most demanding of all crafts, so the number of stonecarvers is on a steady decline. All the more reason to make a beeline for Arnico Stone Carving at the earliest possible opportunity!
Now, about those windows meant to decorate some hoity-toity hotels in Lhasa, and maybe Beijing; well a score and more woodcarvers at Purna Woodcarving Industries are hard at work on carving out a complete set, meaning, maybe a score or so really large-sized wooden carved windows. You’ve seen plenty of such Newari style windows all over the valley; in many hotels, houses, temples, and so on. But, take it from me, you might not have seen the kind they’re making here, certainly not such huge ones. One can only imagine how immense must be the size of the hotel they are being built for! The carvings are, as expected, top-notch, and how couldn’t they be? After all, most of the woodcarvers are from Bungamati, a small nearby village where almost each and every household has been involved in the woodcarving business from time immemorial.
With so much ancient skills handed down through the generations, in stone, in metal, in wood, is it any wonder that the Patan Durbar Square—where many of the best examples of such work are on perpetual display—is a world heritage monument? Which is very fine and all that, but why not take that extra step and grab the opportunity to see the very creation of such magnificence, such splendors?
Nepali Topi, Mark of the Nepali Man
Whether in the cities’ bazaars, or in the countryside’s paddy fields; whether on the trekking routes, or in immigration counters and government offices, the one thing you cannot miss is the sight of the Nepali topi on many heads.
Perhaps the most distinguishing feature that sets a Nepali man apart from all others is the cloth cap that he wears on his head. They may be in varied hues; they may be crumpled, or they may be sharply ironed, with knife-edge creases; they be of different types of fabrics (usually two types); they may be worn in different ways, some wear it crested arrogantly like a Himalayan peak, while some take great care to have the creases just exactly right, and then there are many who don’t really care a hoot; they just crumple it over their head.
Once upon a time, not many decades ago, wearing a Nepali topi (Nepali cap) was mandatory at many official functions and for gaining access to most government offices. Maybe this has not been completely done away with in some places, at least, but with the collapse of royalist power and rise of people power, along with drastic changes in the very structure of the country, the Nepali topi, once the most unifying factor among the country’s 100 and more different ethnicities, now has very little importance as a commonality to bind the people into one nationality.
However, even if the Nepali topi has less of a role in the political scenario, it is still dearly loved by millions and millions of Nepalis all over the country. What make it such a popular part of attire? Simplicity—could be the first response. Unlike the flamboyant hats of other countries (think sombrero, think 8-gallon cowboy hat, to name just two), the Nepali topi perfectly symbolizes the very nature of the typical Nepali man. One who is simple and naïve to the extreme, one who trusts without any hesitance, one who will let you know exactly what he thinks, even if you’ve never met him before. And so on and so forth. And, yes, one whose lifestyle is so simple and basic that he has no time for convoluted thoughts and shrewd maneuverings. Well, actually, if you take a Nepali topi in your hand and think about all this, you’ll probably agree that there couldn’t be a simpler mode of headwear in the whole wide world. And, if you have been here for even a short time, you’ll agree that there couldn’t be a simpler people as well!
Talking about the Nepali topi, there are, in fact, two kinds—the most popular is the Palpale Dhaka topi, while the other is the more traditional, and known as the Bhadgaunle topi. Let’s talk about the latter first, since it carries the weight of seniority. It is named after Bhadgaun, which is what present day Bhaktapur was once called. It is almost always black in color, and has quite a distinctive texture and pattern. If you happen be at a photography exhibition in town, you’ll be sure to see lots of very old black and white shots of scenes around the valley, and most certainly, all the men in those photos will be wearing Bhadgaunle topis. In fact, the Bhandgaunle was, for many years, part of the national attire, capping off, as it were, the debonair daura suruwal and the jazzy waistcoat. In today’s times, however, the Bhadgaunle can be seen mostly only on the heads of people of Bhaktapur and thereabouts. And, interestingly, it is still only made in Bhaktapur. Nowhere else!
The main reason for its decline was the rise of the Palpale Dhaka topi, which is available in a large variety of colors and patterns, so that one can choose the perfect match for the dress worn for the occasion, whatever it may be. Of course, that is not to say that the stately Bhadgaunle is not a show stopper; in fact, because of its solid black color and intricate design, it is a fitting tribute to the status of any man, be it a diplomat or a bureaucrat, a soldier or an officer of the army, a politician or a businessman. Nevertheless, one has to go with the times, and the Palpale Dhka topi is now the Nepali topi in vogue.
Palpali Dhaka topi is made out of a textile known as Dhaka that originated in Palpa in western Nepal, which is mostly inhabited by Newars who had migrated from Kathmandu Valley ages ago. Skilled artisans that they are, they established Palpa as a center of excellence in many types of handicrafts, including handlooms like Dhaka. Creative to the extreme, these Newars have introduced so many textures, so many lovely subtle colors, and so many sophisticated patterns in the Dhaka that the Palpale Dhaka topi has become, in actuality, a pretty posh part of the Nepali man’s attire. If you have attended typical Nepali wedding, you may have noticed the groom dressed in a daura suruwal made entirely of Dhaka, and with a matching Palpale Dhaka topi, to boot. You’ll be hard put to find a more debonair groom, is what we say!
Just as you’ll be hard put to find a more happy-go-lucky man than the one bending his strong back when plowing his field, the ubiquitous Nepali topi pulled tight over his head, stopping the sweat from getting into his eyes. Once in a while, he’ll straighten up, take the cap off his head, and wipe his face with it. Then, the short break over, the topi is back where it belongs, and even from afar, anyone can see that it is a Nepali man.
Boosting Hindu Pilgrimage Tours in Nepal
Nepal was once the only Hindu Kingdom in the world, No more can it be said to be so, however, it is still the world’s leading country for Hindu pilgrimage tours.
In the last six months, one South Asian leader who has been grabbing accolades by the bushel is India’s Prime Minister Narendra Modi. In a short earlier visit to Kathmandu, his first order of business was to pay respect to Lord Shiva at Pashupatinath Temple. Those in the tourist business here say that, since then, there has been a dramatic increase in visits to this famous temple by Hindu devotees, particularly those from India. “For Indian tourists, a visit has now become mandatory,” says one travel operator. Of course, this most magnificent of pagoda style temples, and Nepal’s holiest Hindu shrine, has always drawn a continuous stream of devotees, but now, as they say, the stakes have doubled!
Well, the charismatic leader is coming back once again, this time to attend the SAARC Summit later this month, which is being held in Kathmandu. But trust him to do something news-grabbing once again! This time, he has announced that he will be coming by road, and that he wishes to visit Janakpur first before flying on to the capital. Janakpur is the birthplace of Goddess Sita (a.k.a. Janaki, daughter of King Janak). Janakpur, or Janakpurdham, was once the capital of the Mithila kingdom, and it is about 400 km from Kathmandu. The Janaki Temple is the focal point of the town, and the white plastered three-storied temple’s design is a mix of Muslim and Rajput architecture. It was made in 1910 by General Amar Singh Thapa.
Janakpurdham features prominently in Ramayana, one of the two most popular epics of Hinduism, the other being Mahabharata. This was where many princes once gathered from far and wide to try and win the beautiful Princess Sita’s hand. King Janak threw down the challenge that only the prince who could lift and string the legendary ‘Shiva’s Dhanush (bow)’ would be the one worthy of being his daughter’s husband. None of the strongly built powerful princes could as much as even nudge the fabled bow from its resting place. Finally, only the dashing young Lord Ram of Ayodhyaya remained. Not only did he lift it and string it without much effort, so strong was he that the bow broke into two as he was stringing it. Janakpurdham has many more such fantastic stories that have become part of the local culture. Well, not that it is not already a major site for pilgrims on a Hindu pilgrimage tour to Nepal, but expect it to get substantially added mileage now after Mr. Modi’s visit!
There’s more. After the Summit, he will be visiting Lumbini, birthplace of Lord Buddha, and then the equally revered Muktinath Temple in Mustang district. Now, Lumbini has developed into an international Buddhist pilgrimage site, with scores of Buddhist countries vying with each other to create the most beautiful stupas possible. Interestingly, it was PM Modi himself, who, by publicly stating in the Nepal Parliament that Lord Buddha was born in Lumbini, laid to final rest the controversy about Buddha being born in some other place in India. With this settled, efforts have magnified a hundredfold now to make Lumbini the world’s focal point of Buddhism.
As for his tryst with Muktinath in Mustang district, sad to say, tragic news has preceded his planned visit, the district having witnessed its most terrible loss of lives, both national and international, in an unprecedented blizzard in October this year that resulted in at least 39 deaths of trekkers, guides, and porters trekking on the popular Annapurna Circuit, of which Muktinath Temple is a part. Sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists, Muktinath has been touted for its three ‘wondrous miracles’. First, the ever-flowing icy cold water that is believed to originate from the sacred Lake Mansarovar in Mount Kailash that is channeled through 108 carved spigots behind the Vishnu Temple within the complex. All pilgrims take a running shower under all the 108 spigots to cleanse themselves of sins committed in their lifetimes. Should be a great TV opportunity when PM Modi does the same!
The other ‘miracle’ is the presence of saligram fossils, which are regarded as sacred representations of Lord Vishnu by Hindus, and as the serpent deity, Gawo Jogpa, by Tibetan Buddhists. Saligrams are black ammonite fossils that date back more than 165 million years, when the Tethys Sea covered this entire area, and eons before the Himalayas were formed. The miracle is that such ancient sea-creature encrusted fossils are found so high in the Himalayan region. Hindus say that where there is a saligram, there will be Lord Vishnu. The third ‘miracle’ is the presence of two small fires in Jwalamukhi Temple, south of Vishnu Temple, that appear to burn naturally and continuously. One burns from the earth, while the other burns inside a tiny spring of water.
Before, one had to walk many days to witness these ‘wondrous miracle’, but now one can drive right down to Muktinath from Jomsom, so it’s become very popular with both young and old, the fit and the not-so-fit. After all, one is absolved and gets mukti (liberty) from all sins committed by going there, so why shouldn’t everybody? And, now with the TV channels most probably preparing to show the ruggedly built PM Modi taking the ritual showers, Muktinath will be getting a pretty stupendous fillip, that’s for sure! By the way, who knows, all those cold showers might invigorate him so much that he might even go on to have a dip in the frigid waters of Damodar Kund that’s situated high up at some 5000 meters and has an interesting part to play in the story of Lord Krishna. I wouldn’t put it past the robust Mr. Modi to zip up there in a helicopter and take a brave dip, even if it’s only for a second or so!
Kartik Naach, Many Nights of Rousing Performance
An ancient dance/drama with few equals, the many tales enacted during the Kartik Naach by vigorous dancers keep spectators entranced and spellbound for hours at a time.
In Kathmandu Valley, the Malla Era (A.D. 1200-1769) was a period of great accomplishments in art, architecture, and culture. Besides the creation of many beautiful monuments, dance and drama, too, received a tremendous boost, and, dabalis (raised platforms for public performance of dance and drama) became the norm in many courtyards and squares around the valley. The contributions of King Pratap Malla (A.D. 1641-1674) were especially great, and his patronage of dance and drama was above the ordinary. In fact, legend has it that the king once had a dream about an epic battle between three goddesses and hordes of terrifying demons. It was such a wonderful dream that he wanted to share it with everybody. So, he ordered that his dream be enacted through a dance/drama performance which could be performed year after year for one and all. Thus was born the Mahakali dance, which enacts the tale of the goddesses Mahakali, Mahalaxmi, and Kumari and their valiant battle with demons. This famous dance is performed during the week-long Indrajatra festival in Kathmandu Durbar Square.
However, before Pratap Malla’s time, King Siddinarsingh Malla of Lalitpur (Patan) was an ardent patron of the arts as well, as were all the Malla rulers of the era. In A.D. 1641, he began the tradition of holding an annual dance/drama that would last eight days in the month of Kartik (Oct/Nov). Religious in nature, the Kartik Naach (Kartik Dance) would portray, through dance, the story of Narsimha (an incarnation of Lord Vishnu) as described in the Vishnu Puran. In 1723, his son King Sriniwas Malla added a week to the eight-day-dance by including comic portrayals titled ’Batha’ (‘Clever Man’) describing the antics of three cunning brothers, Gu daju, Sama daju, and Batha kija, with the last being the cleverest one of all. ‘Batha’ depicted the social realities of the times and had moral overtones.
Later still, Sriniwas’s son, King Yognarendra Malla, extended the days further so that now the Kartik Naach went on for the whole month of Kartik, except for three days of Tihar (one of the biggest festivals of Nepal, which also falls in Kartik). How was the extension made possible? Well, following his father’s lead, he, too, added a couple of new dramas, and these were pretty lengthy love classics. The month-long schedule was followed right till 1949, but from 1950, with drastic changes in the political system, it became just a two-day affair. However, in 1982, it again reverted to its original period, that is, eight days. Currently, efforts are being made to extend it to a month-long program, and this year, it is being held for 12 days (Oct 26-Nov 6). Certainly, this historic dance has a tremendous history, even if it’s a bit convoluted!
In the first chapter of the Kartik Naach, ‘Bhakti Surdas’, dancers enact the story of Surdas, the blind devotee of Lord Krishna, who gets blessed with sight, but fails the test of continued devotion by falling for an attractive maiden called Mohini. Finally, coming to his senses, he returns the gift of sight because he realizes that it is not needed to remain fervent in his commitment to the Lord.
The second chapter, ‘Sudama’, tells the story Lord Krishna’s childhood friend Sudama, who, after growing up, remains poor, while his friend moves into a palace. In desperation, one day, Sudama’s wife Sushila asks him to request his powerful friend’s help in getting out of their poverty. Reluctantly, at her insistent request, he goes to the palace and offers Krishna some chipped rice as a gift, which the latter eats with relish. When Sudama returns home, he finds that his hut has been transformed into a mansion, with many riches inside.
Following these chapters, the dancers enact various comic stories of the three cunning brothers (‘Bathas’): namely, ‘The Unfaithful Wife’, ‘Price of a Goat’, ‘Tricking the Brahmin’, ‘Selling the Earrings’, ‘Unfortunate Bathas’, ‘The Greatest Fool’, and ‘Crossing the River’ They are all folksy in nature and with a moral message at their end. And, of course, they are pretty funny. For instance, in the first story, the three brothers are forced to look for shelter one evening when on a journey. They enter the house of a man called Lanake, and pretending to be his relatives, manage to stay the night. The next day, when Lanake is in the fields, they espy a man called Matin kaji entering the house and dallying with their host’s wife, Punavati. Unfortunately for her, Lanake returns sooner than usual, and she rolls her lover in a carpet. And then follows a series of comic antics of the three brothers, who finally succeed in unraveling his wife’s unfaithfulness to Lanake.
One would think that these funny episodes are an interlude to the main story, which is that of utmost religious sentiment. But, hold on, there’s some love stories next (added by King Yognarendra): the first is ‘Madhavanal’, which relates the classic love story of Madhavanal and Kamukundala written by a renowned Indian poet, Gopal Kayestha. The second is titled ‘Usha Haran’, portraying the love story of Usha, granddaughter of King Bali, and Anirudra, grandson of Lord Krishna. Now, after the interlude of comic and love stories, its back to the original dance as devised during King Siddhinarsingh’s time: ‘Jala Sayan’ first, then ‘Varah Avatar’, and finally, ‘Narasimha Avatar’.
One thing to be noted is that the final three chapters of Kartik Naach must be performed on three specified days of the lunar calendar, that is, Ekadashi, Duadashi, and Triyadashi (three very auspicious days in Kartik). Incidentally, the first of these three days is the only time when the doors of the famous Char Narayan Temple in front of the royal palace are opened for devotees, of which you’ll see quite a large number queuing up to pay their respects. The dabali in front of it is known as the Kartik Dabali, and this is where the Kartik Naach is performed every night from 7:00 p.m. onwards for about three or four hours.
Anyway, coming back to the dances, all the three mentioned above are about Lord Vishnu’s wiliness in battles with demons who had been granted immortality by the gods themselves, namely, he himself and Lord Brahma. ‘Jala Sayan’ depicts the story of his victory, with the help of Maha Maya (a goddess with amazing powers), over two powerful antagonists, Madhu and Kaithba. ‘Varah Avatar’, similarly, is about how he vanquishes another powerful demon, Hiranyaksha, son of Hiranyakshyapa, by taking on the form of a wild boar (varah), since that animal had not been among those mentioned as not having any powers to harm the villain.
‘Narasimha Avatar’ is about how Hiranyakshapa, angered at Vishnu’s killing of his son, goes into such deep meditation seeking Lord Brahma’s favor, that the god is compelled to grant him his wish: that he cannot be killed by man or animal; in the day or at night; in heaven or on earth; and neither by any weapon or other instruments. Ironically, his other son, Prahlad, is an ardent devotee of Lord Vishnu, and he makes many attempts to have him killed. Finally, Lord Vishnu comes up with a solution to do away with the demonic king. He takes on the form of Narasimha (who is half man and half lion), and one day, at the exact time of sunset, accosts Hiranyakshapa under a doorway of his palace, puts him on his lap, and rips his entrails out with his claw-like nails. Well, you’ll surly agree that it’s as rousing an ending to an epic performance as one could imagine!
Actually, there are three more chapters left: the ‘Vastra Haran Lila’, the ‘Dadhi Lila’, and the ‘Bouddha Lila’. The first two are to do with the romantic flirtations of Lord Krishna, first with his admirers, the ‘Gopinis’, and the next with his lover, Radha, while ‘Bouddha Lila’ recounts Lord Buddha’s appeal to his followers to refrain from animal sacrifice. Finally, all that’s left to say is that it is up to the skills of the dancers to do justice to so fantastic a dance/drama as Kartik Naach, and in this, one can say that the 70 or so dancers who take part are well versed in the art, since they have been doing this for ages. While most branches of the Newar community can be performers, the Chitrakars are the one who usually perform the part of the deities, while Narasimha is generally the prerogative of Rajopadhyas.
And, yes, there’s one more interesting thing that must be disclosed here: on the night of the ‘Narasimha Avatar’ dance, the golden window of the palace facing the dabali has to be kept open. Why? Well, that’s because King Siddhinarsingh Malla himself, the founder of the Kartik Naach, will be watching from that window—should surely put more spirit into the dancers’ performances!
Bungamati Bahi-Vihar Jatra
Bungamati is synonymous with woodcarving, because this ancient Newar village is full of highly skilled woodcarvers. What’s more, they have some interesting festivals, too!
Another sunny Saturday afternoon in October-end in Kathmandu valley, most definitely not a time to be staying indoors. The warmth of the day was inviting me to go and explore the nooks and corners of the valley once more. So, off I went on my trusty Honda towards the big city from the small village of Thaiba, about four kilometers from Satdobato in Patan, where I was ensconced. I had half a mind to pay a long overdue visit to Kathmandu Durbar Square (a.k.a. Hanuman Dhoka); my mind savoring plonking down on the steps of one its ancient temples, watching the world go by.
However, trust Lalitpur to be the temptress that just won’t let you go, so fatal are its numerous charms. I had just crossed Satdobato and was entering Lagankhel when I had to stop in front of the big stupa (chaitya), one of the four massive stupas built by Emperor Ashoka at the four corners of Patan city during his sojourn here centuries ago. A long procession of men and women, mostly young or middle-aged, and with women predominating, was making its way through the gateway of the mahavihar (as big stupas and the premises surrounding them are called). Young volunteers were calling the shots, stopping traffic on both sides of the road. Trust curious me to promptly park my bike and start asking around about the what’s, where’s, how’s, when’s, and why’s of this unexpected (for me) but welcome spectacle.
One of the energetic volunteers was eager enough to do so, and said, “We are from Bungamati, and we are celebrating the Bahi-Vihar jatra (festival) which comes once every 12 years.” To elaborate on this a little, Bungamati is a Newari village that’s some six kilometers from the ring road out of Jawalakhel. It’s famous for its many skilled woodcarvers. Chances are, quite a few of the elaborate windows and doors you see around Patan were made by Bungamati woodcarvers. Anyway, the volunteer went on to say, “It’s a lot like the Dipankar Yatra that’s held in Patan once every 12 years; we have to visit all the important bahis/bahals (those small courtyards you see all around the valley, with a small stupa at the center) as well as the bigger vihars.” So, how many people were participating? “I think there must be five to six thousand; most are from Bungamati while some are from other villages like Thejo, Lele, and so on.”
I could see that, among the women, there were small groups who were similarly attired in dresses made of handloom fabrics. All the participants had name tags hanging round their necks; on closer scrutiny, I saw that some had names of sponsors; woodcarving companies, of course! So, my guess was that the similarly attired groups were probably representing the establishment where they worked. Soon enough, the procession, after circumambulating the stupa, was on its way towards Lagankhel. I approach another young volunteer with some more questions. She, too, was pretty happy to speak to me. She said, “We have to visit about 70 bahis and vihars. We started at five in the morning and have already visited most of them (the time was around 2:30 p.m. now). Next, we’ll be going to Ga:bahal, and then, Ta: bahal, both near Mangal Bazaar. After that we’ll be going back to Bungamati by bus.”
I carried on to Lagankhel— that really, really crowded place with scores of buses and minibuses in the bus park, most of them perennially on the move, whether coming or going, and the vegetable market surrounding it, besides the many other shops selling everything under the sun all over the place. On top of which, even though numerous little shops ply on the footpaths, and many on the sides of the street going to Mangal Bazaar, no one has dared to ban vehicles from running in the area, and so what you have is a constant cacophony of noise, crowds of shoppers thronging the narrow street, and general mayhem all together.
Now, imagine if you will, a procession some 5000-strong moving through this chaotic arena, and what you get is a bazaar like none you may have seen anywhere else. However, take it from me, it’s a pretty orderly bazaar, even then, since nobody’s bothered, and everybody seems to take it all with equanimity. As I was watching all this, I asked a shopkeeper about where all these shoppers were coming from, and was it always like this? “Well, this bazaar is always crowded, and you should be here during Dashain and Tihar! People come from all over Lalitpur district. Those buses ply to some hundred places.” His small shop (not exactly one, since his wares were displayed on the sidewalk) had woolen items, as had many other similar ‘shops’: gloves, shawls, pullovers, socks, trousers, and so on. And, right, you guessed it, all imported from China, that great big friendly giant on the other side.
I sidled up to a middle-aged man who was part of the procession and badgered him with a few questions. The long and short of our conversation was that this particular festival, the Bungamati Bahi-Vihar festival was a prelude to the great big Bungamati Mela being held in the coming year. “It is held once every 12 years in honor of Rato Matsyendranath, and will go on for four months. So, before it begins, all of us at Bungamati pay a visit to the bahis and vihars in Patan to pay our respects and ask blessings for a successful mela,” he informed me. Lest you are not so well informed, let me tell you that the Rato Matsyendranath festival is a month-long affair that’s held every year in Patan. It’s to honor Lord Matsyendranath for bringing rain to the valley (the why’s, what’s, and how’s, when’s of this very vigorous festival is another story).
For now, let’s look forward to the grand Bungamati Mela which will begin pretty soon in the village of Nepal’s finest woodcarvers. For your information, you can drive down there on a fairly good road and should take you not more than 25 minutes or so. In fact, you don’t even need to wait or the mela, anytime you go is a worthwhile outing, since you’ll be experiencing the ancient way of life even this close to the capital, and going through some really great scenery on the way. Take a substantial bag along, you might want to pick up a few fantastic woodcarvings when there!
History and Culture of Kathmandu Durbar Square
Kathmandu Durbar Square (a.k.a. Hanuman Dhoka) is one of Kathmandu Valley’s most important world heritage monuments, and it is where history and culture abound. Besides, it is as ‘living’ a ‘museum’ as one would find anywhere.
The eight-day-long Indra Jatra festival in honor of Indra, the ‘god of rain’, is held every year in August/September (September 23 this year). It heralds the coming of Nepal’s biggest festival, the ten-day-long Dashain, soon after, which is a time to get together with family and have lavish feasts throughout. Dashain becomes all the more enjoyable if the preceding harvest had been good, which is, of course, dependent upon bountiful rains. Indra Jatra festival is held to thank the ‘god of rain’ for just that, and to keep him in a good mood so he blesses the valley with as good rains the following year too. During this colorful festival, Kumari (the Living Goddess), Lord Ganesha, and Lord Bhairabh are paraded around the city on chariots.
As colorful as the festival is, what makes it even more interesting is that it is held in a world heritage monument, that is, Kathmandu Durbar Square (a.k.a. Hanuman Dhoka). The royal palace in this fantastic square was the seat of power of the Malla and Shah Kings of yore. King Pratap Malla (1641-74), one of the brightest firmaments of the Malla Period (12th-18th centuries), is credited with the construction of the Hanuman Dhoka Palace. You can see his statue atop a tall pillar facing the Taleju Temple in the square. Another renowned site in the square, the Kumari Ghar, the abode of the Living Goddess, was built in the 1750s by King Jaya Prakash Malla.
In 1768, King Prithvi Narayan Shah, ruler of the tiny kingdom of Gorkha, conquered the Kathmandu valley during his bid to unify the country. Thus began the rule of the Shah Kings (1768-2008) from the Hanuman Dhoka Palace. As was usually the case in those days, as far as royalty was concerned, Prithvi Narayan’s death in 1775 was followed by succession struggles highlighted by assassinations and intrigue. In 1846, a Chettri nobleman, Jung Bahadur, organized what is infamously known as the Kot Massacre, during which the elite of the Shah durbar were killed in their hundreds while assembled in a kot (courtyard) adjoining Kathmandu Durbar Square. This horrendous act brought the Ranas into power, with Jung Bahadur becoming, first, Prime Minister, and then Maharajah, a title that was given hereditary status. The Shah Kings remained mere figureheads for a century and more.
Indeed, a tour of the Kathmandu Durbar Square is a tour of the country’s history, and its culture, as well. The historic square is where, on the seventh day of Dashain, that is, Fulpati, jamara (barley sprouts having ritual significance) and other ritual items are brought in from Gorkha in a stately procession, carried in a covered palanquin by Brahmins, and escorted by musket-carrying soldiers dressed in uniforms of the bygone era. On the eighth day (Maha Asthami), Kathmandu Durbar Square is where numerous animals (goats, buffaloes, ducks, and pigeons) are sacrificed to Goddess Kali. On the ninth day (Maha Nawami), the Taleju Temple is opened for the public, which is the only time it is done so, while in the kot (courtyard) of Hanuman Dhoka, army men slaughter more sacrificial animals with khukuris in front of a high profile audience of officers in full dress regalia and other dignitaries. It is a spectacular event, with brass band, cannons sounding off big bangs, et al.
Kathmandu Durbar Square’s cultural significance is also obvious from the numerous ancient shrines and temples in and around its premises, including those dedicated to various gods of the Hindu pantheon like Ganesh, Shiva-Parvati, Bhagwati, Saraswoti, Krishna, etc., besides Taleju and Kumari Ghar. Close to the famous square is a temple from which Kathmandu’s name is said to be derived, that is, Kasthamandap Temple (mandap: pavilion, kastha: wood). The wood of a single tree is said to have been used to construct it.
Speaking of constructions and such, here’s some modern history to do with this world famous square—King Birendra Bir Bikram Shah was proclaimed King on Jan 31, 1972, after his father’s death, but the formal coronation ceremony was held only on February 24, 1975. During the three years in between, the first restoration works in the valley began, and it started with restoration of the Hanuman Dhoka Palace, where the main ceremonies of the coronation would be held. Funded by UNDP, an UNESCO consultant, Architect John Sanday, was put in charge of the project. Although the project went on five years, involving some 300 hundred workers (including 50 wood carvers), Sanday managed to complete quite a lot of work, especially restoration of the façade and the main courtyard, in time for the historic coronation, a lavish spectacle attended by royalty and dignitaries from all over the world.
In 2000, a comprehensive plan for restoration of the temples at Kathmandu Durbar Square was launched as the ‘Kathmandu Durbar Initiative’. Funded by the U.S. Ambassador's Fund for Cultural Preservation, it was conducted by Kathmandu Valley Preservation Trust (KVPT) under Architect Dr. Rohit Ranjitkar. Its major beneficiaries were the Kal Bhairav Shrine, Kageshwar Mahadev Temple, and Lakshmi Narayan Temple. No doubt, Kathmandu Durbar Square has benefitted immensely from such attention, but at the same time, it must be said that there is so much of ancient artifacts that remain as solid as they were hundreds of years ago, that even without any embellishment they are attractions that continue to captivate the senses.
Without doubt, Kathmandu Durbar Square lives up to its high status as a UNESCO designated world heritage monument, and the fantastic thing about it is that it continues to play such an important role in the lives of all dwellers of the enchanted valley of Kathmandu.
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Hidden Gems of Patan
Patan (Lalitpur), the ‘City of the Arts’, is chock-a-block with treasures at every nook and cranny. There are also many fascinating but lesser known places that can pique your curiosity and sense of adventure.
You’ve heard about Patan’s world heritage monument, the Durbar Square, with its many fascinating monuments, including temples of many different architectural styles. You’ve also probably heard about the restorations completed in recent times, such as that of Tusha Hiti, as well as ongoing restorations at sites such as the Bhaideval Temple. Patan Museum inside the former royal palace is one of the more famous renovation projects, a successfully completed Nepal-Austrian joint venture with architect Gotz Hagmueller (also responsible for ‘Garden of Dreams’ in Keshar Mahal in Thamel) at the helm. However, most other restoration/renovation works around the locality are the efforts of an organization called Kathmandu Valley Preservation Trust (KVPT).
Kathmandu Valley Preservation Trust
Many renowned restorers/architects are part of this trust, which was also responsible for the making of the famous Baber Mahal Revisited, an extensive renovation of what was once just a cowshed that was part of a 250-room palace called Baber Mahal, one of nine neo-classical palaces built by Prime Minister Chandra S.J.B. Rana in 1901-1929. Baber Mahal Revisited is one of KPVT’s most visible accomplishments, but there are many more important works to their credit. Now, if you’re in Nepal, make it a point to visit their office, located in an old building in one corner of the Patan Durbar Square.
Besides its architectural offices, there’s also a library with a collection of some pretty interesting hard-to-find photographs, old drawings, and historical books. The top floor is a guest quarter with tasteful and comfortable ethnic interiors where you could spend a night or two. The small veranda has a sweeping view of the durbar square, and really, sitting there watching the activities below throughout the day, you’ll realize why we keep on talking about ‘living culture’ all the time.
Birth-to-death Shop
There’s a shop on the ground floor of the same building that’s referred to by locals as the ‘Birth-to-death Shop” (real name: Hem Narsingh ko Pasal). Ask, and the shopkeeper will show you a file full of lists pertaining to items needed for rituals ranging from birth to death for the Newar community, as well as for parbates (hill people), and Buddhists. The shop’s reputation is based on the precinct that it will have available, at all times, even the smallest item needed. The shop also sells the rare Matsyendranath flower that’s meant for offering at the sacred Matsyendranath Temple, and root-like herbs called sadewa and sadewi (male-female in English) that are said to have the power to make anyone besotted to you if you just touch them with it.
Dare if you want to, but know that the one besotted will be after you forever and more, and if the love is unrequited, you’ll be in serious trouble! Among the shop’s regular clients are shamans who come shopping for such things, as well as for bear’s hair, tiger’s whisker, etc. for their tantric practices. So, visit the ‘Birth-to-Death-Shop’ and browse around for some truly exotic souvenirs.
Jyotishis and shamans
Although there are plenty of excellent hospitals in Patan, jyotisis (astrologers) and shamans, too, have thriving practices, with many clients seeking out-of-the-world cures for various ailments. Here’s a typical scene at one: Time: evening. The jyotishi: a man in his 70s who sits on a sofa behind a table full of parchments, scrolls, and a brass plate containing raw rice. The client: a well-dressed middle-aged woman. The conversation: “My husband is an important government official. Things are not going well for him; a promotion is overdue.” She hands over her husband’s janma patra (document showing planetary positions at time of birth). The jyotishi studies it for some time, and does some calculations. “Your husband’s graha dasha (planetary configuration) is not favorable for the next six months. I will give you a mantra (Vedic incantation). Ask him to repeat it 100,000 times. He should also wear a coral Ganesh ring. Things will start getting better.”
You don’t need a janma patra; your birthday and year will also do if you want to have your fortune told and want a cure for some bad karma. Look around for signboards, you’ll find quite a few around the area known as Prayag Pokhari, as well as in Satdobato. You’ll also find jyotishis in well-known tantric shrines like the Baglamukhi and Bhairabhnath temples.
What bout shamans? Well, here’s what I observed at Buddhi Kumar ‘Gurujyu’’s place of work in Kutisawagal, a 15-minute-walk from Patan Durbar Square, A ‘Shiva tantric’, he sat under a canopy of colorful wooden snakes. Shelves held deity figures as well as plastic bags containing herbs and vials of so-called ‘Himalayan Oil’. A woman and a frail-looking boy of about five sat cross-legged facing him across a brass topped counter.
The woman said, “He keeps on crying all the time. Don’t know why.” She handed over a plastic bag of rice. Gurujyu poured the rice on a brass plate, picked up a few, and then let them fall on the plate. He repeated this procedure a couple of times, and then declared, “Runche bimari (crybaby syndrome)”. He offered some rice to one of the deities, and then flicked some on the child. Next, he blew forcefully on the boy’s face. The young mother murmured, “Doctor said...pneumonia…” The shaman again flicked some grains at the child, waved a black-feathered broom over his head, and blew forcefully twice more on his face. “He will be all right now,” he said. The woman thanked him, and bowing respectfully, went out with her son.
Next, a young woman entered and handed over 10 rupees. In return, Gurujyu handed over a small plastic bag with some herb inside. “They are ‘karne paat’ (a variety of leaf),” he said, adding, “They can only be collected at midnight in the jungle.” Apparently, it is a cure for alcoholics and the woman is a regular customer. One can assume that she must be administering the cure in a surreptitious manner to her husband. If you are interested in shamanism, do visit the Gurujyu. He’s a robust middle-aged man with an open and forthcoming manner. Among his clients are many women who come to look for a cure to prevent their husbands from deserting them. He also claims to communicate with spirits, especially for patients suffering from acute depression.
Fire temple
Another fascinating but less well-known site in Patan is a fire shrine called Agnishala Temple that’s located at the end of a lane opposite Kumaripatti (where Patan’s Living Goddess Kumari give audience during big festivals) in Kumaripati Road near Jawalakhel. As far as anybody knows, a fire has been kept burning at one or more of its five fire altars for the last 4000 years or so. According to the priests here, it may perhaps be the only fire temple in the world with five kundas (fire altars), most of the others making do with only one. These are called Vishnu Kunda, Brahma Kunda, Shiva Kunda, Surya Kunda, and Savya Kunda. The first is the largest and most important while the last is meant for end-of-life rites. Homs (fire rites) are conducted for those wanting to negate the impacts of bad graha dashas or to enhance their fortune by appeasing various gods/goddesses as well as the planets. Birthdays are special days, when visitors have a hom done to please their planetary ruler/s as determined by their birth charts.
Sacred pear tree
There’s something else about this unique temple that is worth knowing about. On its premises are some tall dense trees, the likes of which are not to be found anywhere else in the country. Called Barun Brikshyas (Barun: god of water; brikshya: tree), it is said that water will never dry out in wells around its locality. Scientifically named Crateava religiosa, they are also called ‘sacred garlic pear trees’. Myth has it that sages in ancient times ate one of these pears to stave off hunger for a whole month of meditation. You might be lucky to get one too!
Well, there you have it. These are but a few of the many hidden gems of Patan that are pretty fascinating; and you should not only make it a point to visit them, but also make the effort to discover more during your Nepal tour. Oh yes, you can rest assured that there’s plenty more!
Hiking in and around Kathmandu Valley
While Nepal is famous as a trekking destination, there are also some shorter hikes, especially around Kathmandu Valley, that are refreshing to the extreme.
Legend has it that the Kathmandu valley was once a gigantic lake called Nagadaha inhabited by innumerable snakes (nagas). How did it come to be a valley fit to be lived in by humans? Well, according to the most popular myth, there was once a revered Buddhist sage called Bodhisatva Manjushree who came upon the giant lake during one of his travels. He decided to make it inhabitable for humans, and with a single massive stroke of his so-called ‘Sword of Wisdom’ sliced out an enormous gorge in a place called Chobar in Kirtipur, that’s some six kilometers southwest of Kathmandu. Water immediately began to gush out of the huge lake, and in due time, it was drained completely.
This gorge is one of the places that you will come across when visiting Kirtipur during your hike in and around Kathmandu Valley. Beside its fabled history, there is something else that should be of interest. There’s a suspension bridge spanning the gorge that was made in Scotland (Aberdeen) in 1903 and carried into the valley, a part at a time, since there was no road to speak of then connecting with the outside world. A herculean feat, no less! You’ll also find numerous caves in the cliffs around the gorge. Nearby is the Taudaha Lake, a natural lake that’s a wetland site for quite a few bird species.
Kirtipur, a short distance away, is an ancient Newari town with a fascinating history. During the time when King Prithvi Narayan Shah (1723-1775) was on his mission to unify the many states of the country into a unified Nepal, he attacked Kirtipur twice, and was soundly repelled both times. The third time around, he managed to do so, but that was due to a huge stroke of good luck. The story goes that during the battle, a Kirtipur soldier had the king at his mercy, and was on the verge of chopping off the royal head. However, a rock stood in the way between the king’s head and the soldier’s khukuri, and so the king escaped certain death. Apparently, even today, people spit on that very same rock as they pass it by, and so they should, considering what happened after Kirtipur’s fall. The enraged king ordered the noses and lips of all local males to be cut off, and these cut off parts weighed 80 pounds at the end of the bloody frenzy! So, keep an eye out for this infamous rock during your hike.
About 15 km away from this historic town is a very famous temple of the valley, that is, Dakshinkali Temple. Dedicated to Goddess Kali, the rituals here are tantric in nature, with animal sacrifices conducted on Saturdays, as also during festivals like Dashain. Your hike to these places begins from the ring road and takes you across the sprawling grounds of Nepal’s premier university, Tribhuvan University, on a well-maintained road that gradually goes up. All in all, it’s a most pleasant hiking experience. Another hike you will like is the one that takes you to the villages of Bungamati and Khokana.
Bungamati is a Newari village in the traditional mold that dates back to the 16th century and is located about 10 km south of Kathmandu. Full of brick houses and flagstone-paved lanes, it is famous for two things: first, as the winter residence of Rato Matsyendranath, in whose honor a major month-long festival is held every year in Patan (Lalitpur), and second, as the village with the best woodcarvers in the valley, perhaps in the country. Speaking about the first, the sandalwood idol of Rato Matsyendranath is kept here in a temple for six months, and some weeks prior to the beginning of the festival, it is taken to Lagankhel (in Patan), where it is given a holy bath followed by certain rituals, such as repainting of its face.
After taking the one-hour drive from Kathmandu to Bungamati, you begin your explorations on foot, and start exploring the quaint village at your leisure. When doing so, you’ll observe quite a few woodcarvers busily carving objects such as wooden windows, doors, and so forth; veritable objects de’ art, you’ll agree on looking at the end results. Indeed, such are their skills that Bungamati’s woodcarvers are much sought after in many handicraft industries around the valley. From this village of Rato Matsyendranath and skilled woodcarvers, you next walk to another classical one that’s quite close by, walking through lovely scenery and in pretty good weather, especially in the October-December season.
The village you’ll be hiking to is called Khokana, and it, too, is inhabited by Newars. However, this village is famous for a completely different thing, and that is, the production of mustard oil. Well, what’s so great about mustard oil? You may well be asking. Right, but Khokana’s mustard oil is the kind that you might not get anywhere else but here, made as it is using methods that are as ancient as is the valley’s history. You’ll understand this when you come across oil-pressing mills around the village with their ancient-looking implements, and when you see how the oil is pressed. Khokana’s mustard oil is in high demand throughout the valley, and while walking around Kathmandu’s bazaars, if you see men with weathered faces shouldering heavy tin cans hanging on both sides from a bamboo staff, chances are good that they have come to sell mustard oil from Khokana.
Well, now you know why these hikes are highly recommended when visiting Nepal. You’ll get a pretty good experience of life as it has been for centuries. A far cry from what you are used to, surely. You’ll probably be amazed at how laidback the lifestyle is in areas around Kathmandu city, despite being in such close proximity with the capital’s hustle and bustle. What’s more, you can even spend a night or two, if so inclined, at a homestay in Bungamati, where living with a local family allows you to absorb more of this blessed lifestyle.
Nepal’s Masala Culture
Nepalis love spices (masala) and use them to the hilt when conjuring up their delicious cuisine. What’s more, Nepal is also a global leader in production of some spices!
Spices (masala) are indispensable to the Nepali way of life, and that’s a good thing is what we say! Spices contain valuable oils with health-enhancing properties, and contain a fair amount of vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. While no Nepali cuisine can be complete without a number of spices being used, demand spikes during festive occasions like Dashain and Tihar, as well as during the wedding season. One of the most commonly used is garam masala, especially in meat dishes, of which most Nepalis can be said to be connoisseurs. It’s a mixture of a dozen spices, viz. coriander (dhania), cumin seeds (jeera), turmeric (besar), methi (fenugreek), black pepper (marich), cinnamon (dal chini), bay leaf (tejpat), mace (saipatri), nutmeg (jaifal), clove (luang), large cardamom (alainchi), and green cardamom (sukmel).
These different spices are the ones that generally go to make up the usual range of spices used in Nepali cuisine. Of course, different dishes require different combinations. For example, the better informed use only dhaniya, besar, and garlic (lahsun) when making fish curry; the less adept use everything possible to make it spicy, which may be how they like it, but it does reduce the taste of the fish itself. This only goes to highlight the fact that spices are to be used sparingly because their function is to enhance flavor, not dominate it. And, while people all over the country use the same range of spices, different communities use them in different ways. The people of the high hills and mountainous regions, such as the Sherpas, also use wild spices such as koma and zimbu. Some other spices used all over, beside those mentioned above, are ajowan (jwano), fennel seeds (saunf), basil (tulsi), mint (pudina), and of course, the all-prevalent chili peppers (khursani).
Now, the last mentioned might not be so desirable for many tourists, but for those who like it hot and fiery, it gives a real zing to any dish. Anyway, you might like to know that you can minimize chili’s fiery effect by removing the seeds and white inner membrane, which actually contains most of the capsaicin. However, it’s in capsaicin where the health benefits of chili lie, such as inhibiting inflammation. Speaking about health and spices, here’s a brief review: Jeera helps digestion and prevents bloating. Dhaniya helps to reduce fever and reduce excessive menstrual flow, while freshly dried coriander helps in conjunctivitis. Hariyo dhaniya (green coriander) promotes digestion and is said to be a mild aphrodisiac. Besar has ant-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, besides containing antioxidants; its paste is a popular home remedy for sunburn.
Kalo marich boosts digestion and increases appetite. Jwano is good for building up resistance, and for curing indigestion, ear aches, and toe nail fungus infection. It also helps to bring phlegm out, besides being an antispasmodic. Lahsun has antibacterial and antifungal properties and helps to lowers blood pressure (crushed garlic is what is recommended; add it towards the end of cooking, more potent that way). Aduwa (ginger) reduces gas and alleviates travel sickness and hangovers; and it, too, is a mild aphrodisiac. Pudina soothes the digestive tract and tea made out of it will ease irritable bowel syndrome discomfort. Tulsi helps in relieving bowel inflammation and rheumatoid arthritis. Sukmel stimulates digestion and relieves flatulence, and its fragrance covers bad breath. Dalchini relieves pain and improves circulation, aside from providing relief for intestinal gas. Luang is an effective panacea for toothaches because of its anti inflammatory and pain relieving properties. Saunf helps to reduce coughing bouts.
So, you see, even this very brief mention of some of spices’ health benefits should make it clear that spicy food is not such a bad thing after all! Of course, like said before, there has to be a balance, since taste can be compromised if too much spice is used. While most people today go for the packaged stuff, there are plenty of places around Kathmandu Valley where you’ll get freshly ground spices, and really, in this day and age of massive food adulteration, that’s the best way to go. If you go to Ason Bazaar, that ancient market in the center of Kathmandu, you’ll find many spice shops, some of which have been there for ages. In fact, there’s one called Shanka Pasal, whose founder, Bhai Ratna Bajracharya, is said to have first started the spice trade here. At such shops, you’ll also get whole spices that you can have ground later on.
There’s another thing about the word ‘masala’—the Nepali word for spices. It can also refer to dry fruits, and this is something that is at its highest demand during Tihar. Also, there’s a mixture called ‘sutkeri masala’ that’s a popular supplement for nursing mothers. It’s a mixture of both spices and dry fruits, specifically, edible gum (gund), batisa (mixture of 32 herbs), jwano, methi , saunf , and dry fruits. It’s a potent mixture that contains all the essential nutrients. Similarly, infants are traditionally fed a mixture of cashew nuts, pistachio, almonds, nutmegs, and dates as a nutrition-packed supplement. Dry fruits make up an important part of any celebration in Nepal, and some like the coconut are considered to be an auspicious offering to the gods.
All in all, Nepal is a masala-loving country, that’s for sure, with their use being both traditional and obligatory in many instances. And, that’s not all; it’s also a matter of pride that the country can claim to be among the world’s leading producers of some spices. In 2010, Nepal was declared to be the global leader in producing large cardamom (alainchi), the quantity being a whopping 6,647 tons. The country also produces large quantities of ginger. Great going, right? So, here’s a big hurrah for Nepal and its masala culture!
The Historic Durbars of Kathmandu
The Rana Period (1846-1951) was witness to a great many historic events, not least being the building of durbars on a scale not seen before in Nepal.
A former Nepali diplomat is the proud owner of a house in Tinchule, near Bouddha of Kathmandu, that once belonged to Juddha Shumsher Jung Bahadur Rana, one of the more famous Rana prime ministers of the country. More than 150 years old, it was the prime minister’s summer house, and it is a property that anybody would cherish. However, it is only a small legacy compared to the great architectural legacies of the Ranas during the Rana Period (1846-1951), principally, the magnificent durbars that are strewn all over Kathmandu.
What sets them apart, aside from their huge sizes, is their completely different style of architecture from the hereto traditional styles of the Newars and the Shahs. The Ranas, indeed, introduced as radical a change as was possible in both scale and design from the existing architecture in Kathmandu. Built in neo-classical or Baroque style, these grand durbars were generally white-plastered and with arresting French windows. Grecian columns were everywhere, and they came in different sizes, the more imposing ones adorning the spacious porticos.
The Narayanhiti Durbar is, of course, what first comes to mind when talking about Rana Period architecture. Prime Minister Jung Bahadur Rana built it in 1847 as a gift for his brother Rana Uddip Singh. Originally, the style was totally neo-classical, but after it became the royal palace of the Shah Kings, renovations and remodelling followed in 1889, along with quite a bit of expansion. Later still, in 1969, King Mahendra Bir Bikram Shah constructed a more modern-style palace.
Today, the Shah Kings have become part of history, and the royal palace is now a museum, with one part taken over by the Foreign Ministry. For himself, Jung Bahadur built another grand durbar, the Thapathali Durbar, besides the Bagmati River in Thapathali. This one was primarily designed in the colonial style, and with the passage of time, much of it has been demolished. However, the main part remains to remind us of what was once Jung Bahadur’ grand durbar. Today, Nepal Rastra Bank’s Currency Management Department has its offices there.
The earliest durbar to be converted into a hotel was Bahadur Bhawan in Kantipath, near the former royal palace. Constructed in 1889, it was later refurbished into what is believed to be the first hotel in the country, and appropriately enough, it was named the Royal Hotel. For reasons unknown, the hotel closed down later, and today, the durbar is home to the Election Commission. Another durbar that went on to become a hotel was Lal Durbar near Durbar Marg, which was built by Prime Minister Bir Sumsher In 1890. Much later, extensive renovations were made to a part of this impressive durbar to convert it into the famous Hotel Yak & Yeti, a luxurious five-star property.
Bir Shumsher was also responsible for making the Seto Durbar on Durbar Marg in 1893, as well as the Phora Durbar in front of the royal palace in 1895. Unfortunatly, during the great earthquake of 1934, fire broke out, and most of Seto Durbar was destroyed, leaving only a small wing intact. Phora Durbar was famous for its lovely gardens and its many beautiful fountains. Today, it is a club for Americans in Nepal. Around the time Phora Durbar was built, another durbar was built nearby around a courtyard with beautiful gardens and water bodies. It was named Keshar Mahal, and today, besides the Ministry of Education and the Keshar Library, which are lodged there, the garden has been lovingly renovated into what is now called the ‘Garden of Dreams’. .
In 1903, the biggest durbar of them all was built by Chandra Shumsher. He called it Singha Durbar, and it was where he set up his residence. Arranged around seven quadrangles were more than a thousand rooms. So large was the durbar that it ranked high amongt the largest buildings in South Asia. Then, in 1973, a fire raged through the durbar, and except for the front wing, everything else was destroyed.
Today, Singha Durbar is the focal point of governance in the country, with the parliament and many ministeries inside its premises, which also houses the Nepal Television and Nepal Planning Commission establishments. Another historic durbar to sustain extensive damages during the great earthquale of 1934 was Sital Niwas in Maharajgunj. The construction of the original durbar was completed in 1923, and after the earthquake, much of it had to be rebuilt. Today, it houses the President of Nepal and is known as Rastrapati Bhawan.
And, finally, how can an article on durbars be complete without mentioning the 120-year-old Agni Bhawan in Lazimpat, which was built by General Jit Shumsher Rana, brother of Jung Bahadur Rana, in 1894? Furnished with the finest accessories imported from Europe, Agni Bhawan was one of the most elegant of all durbars in Kathmandu. In due time, it became the property of General Agni Shumsher Rana, son of Juddha Shumsher JB Rana, and grandfather of the late Queen Aishwarya, former Queen Komal, and the late Princess Prekshya, who were all born here. Historical to the extreme, it was taken over in 1964 by an enterprising hotelier, the late Mr. Ram Shanker Shrestha, who converted it into the country’s premier heritage hotel—Hotel Shanker—by keeping its unique identity intact even while ensuring most modern amenities to its guests.
Well, there’s a lot to be said for the Rana years, not everything was good, of course. However, one cannot deny that the durbars they built were truly fitting tributes to their high ambitions and love for the grandiose.
Buddhist Pilgrimage in Nepal
A Buddhist pilgrimage starts from Lumbini, the birthplace the Buddha. At the same time, one cannot miss visiting some other sacred Buddhist sites within the country, as well.
LUMBINI
Lumbini is where it all began. Circa 563 B.C., in a place called Lumbini in mid-western Nepal, Queen Mayadevi of Kapilvastu gave birth to a child she named Siddhartha Gautam—a child who went on to be revered as Lord Gautam Buddha, the ‘Apostle of Peace’. After living in Lumbini for the first 29 years of his life, he began seeking the true meaning of life, and in doing so, attained enlightenment. His teachings gave directions to a new way of life for mankind, and eventually became one of the world’s great religions—Buddhism. His birthplace, Lumbini, is thus the most sacred site for Buddhist pilgrims from around the globe. To give it its due and make it worthy of an international pilgrimage site, in 1978, renowned Japanese architect Kenzo Tange was given the responsibility of making a master plan for what is known as the Lumbini Development Trust Area.
Accordingly, Lumbini was segregated as Sacred Garden Zone, Monastic Zone, and Educational and Culture Zone. The centerpiece of the garden is the Mayadevi Temple, with its stone image of the queen giving birth to Siddhartha, and near to it is the Puskarini Pond, where the divine infant was given his first bath. Nearby, too, is the famous Ashoka Pillar. Erected in 249 B.C.E. by Emperor Ashoka, it marks the Buddha’s birthplace. The Monastic Zone is divided into the East and West Zones. In the former are to be found monasteries built by followers of Theravat Buddhism, while in the latter are those built by followers of Mahayana Buddhism, as well as by those of Tibetan Buddhism. Inscribed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1997, Lumbini is a six-hour drive (about 265 km) from Kathmandu, and a 30-minute drive from Siddharthanagar (formerly called Bhairahawa), from where the Gautam Buddha Airport is three kilometers away.
Lumbini is, however, just the beginning of a Buddhist pilgrimage tour in Nepal. There are two other world heritage monuments, Boudhanath Stupa and Swyambhunath Stupa, both in Kathmandu, which are very important pilgrimage sites as well. Not only that, there are many other sacred Buddhist pilgrimage sites in Nepal that make the pilgrimage an extremely fulfilling one—sites such as Hiranyavarna Mahavihar, Kopan Monastery, Namobuddha, Seto Gumba, Dharmakirti Vihar, and so on.
Photos of Lumbini (below)
BOUDHANATH STUPA
Boudhanath Stupa, the most holy Buddhist site in the country, is said to be one of the world’s largest stupas, measuring about 100 m in diameter and about 40 m in height. The massive dome, with Buddha’s eyes gazing in all directions, sits on a three-layered base, around which are 108 deity figures and hundreds of brass prayer wheels that are spun by devotees when circumambulating the shrine. Within the Boudhanath premises are a number of monasteries of Mahayana Buddhism, and the remains of the past Buddha Kashyapa are said to be enshrined within the stupa. This fascinating site is visited by Buddhists from far and near, and more so, by Buddhists from Tibet.
SWOYAMBHUNATH STUPA
Swoyambhunath Stupa, located on top of a conical hill, has a lofty white dome, around which are the eyes of the Buddha (each pair having a third eye above them), and a glittering golden spire. One of the most ancient shrines in the valley, Swoyambhunath is believed to have been a revered Buddhist pilgrimage site since the 5th century. Losar (Tibetan New Year), Buddha Jayanti (Buddha’s birthday), and Gunla (a month-long Newari Buddhist festival) are some festivals that are celebrated with gusto here, when thousands of devotees reach the shrine either by climbing 365 steps up the hill, or by a winding road winding on the other side.
ANANDAKUTI VIHAR
Anandakuti Vihar, which is on the way to Swayambhunath, was established in 1943 by monks from Sri Lanka who follow the school of Theravada Buddhism. In 1945, they made a precious gift to the Vihar—three of the Buddha’s teeth. These sacred relics are put on view for the public once every year on the day of Buddha Jayanti. The late Bikchhu Amritananda Mahasthavir established a school, Anandakuti Vidyapeeth, in January 1952 as a Buddhist boarding high school under the Vihar’s jurisdiction.
HIRANYAVARNA MAHAVIHAR
Hiranyavarna Mahavihar (a.k.a. the Golden Temple), situated in Kwabahal of Patan, is a three-roofed pagoda-style temple housing a large silver figure of Shakyamuni Buddha. Famed for its beautiful architecture, there’s a smaller temple in front that is as beautiful as the main one, with a gilt roof and copper patakas (metal banners descending from the top). It is said that visiting the Golden Temple does away with the need for visiting other temples, since one will find shrines of most of the major temples of the valley here, including a lovely silver replica of Swayambhunath. A Dharma Dhatu Mandala with a large vajra is set on a double lotus podium up front, while around the courtyard are various deity figures. There’s a gumba (prayer hall) within the precinct, where monks gather in front of a fascinating figure of Amoghapasa Lokeswor (eight-handed Buddha).
KOPAN MONASTERY
Kopan Monastery, located north of Boudhanath, is a major center for the study and practice of Mahayana Buddhism based on the Tibetan Gelug tradition of Lama Tsong Khapa. It was founded by Lama Thubten Yeshe and Lama Zopa Rinpoche, with the first community of 25 monks making it their home in 1972. Today, the community numbers about 360, which include monks and lamas, besides other workers. Initially, the monastery also housed nuns, but later, a nunnery, Khachoe Ghakyil Ling, was built for them nearby in 1994, and it has now more than 300 nuns living there.
SETO GUMBA (DRUK AMITABH MOUNTAIN MONASTERY)
Seto Gumba (Druk Amitabh Mountain Monastery) was established in 1989 by His Holiness the Gyalwang Drukpa on a hill some three kilometers from Swoyambhunath Stupa. The Druk Gawa Khilwa Nunnery, with about 300 nuns, is housed here. The Tibetan style architecture is splendid, and there are many beautiful statues and paintings all over the place. With a lovely garden area, the whole atmosphere is refreshing, and quite a number of people take the two-hour hike to the site on weekends.
NAMOBUDDHA
Namobuddha is located 10 km from Panauti, an ancient Newar town that’s about 32 km from Kathmandu. The shrine here is dedicated to a prince’s supreme act of sacrifice. According to the legend, Prince Mahasatwo of Panauti once had gone to the jungle of Namobuddha for hunting. There he encountered a starving tigress and her cubs; they were so weak from hunger that they did not even move when he approached them. The prince was deeply moved, and there and then started to cut his own body parts to feed them. A festival is held every year in April/May to commemorate this extraordinary event.
DHARMAKIRTI VIHAR
Dharmakirti Vihar, in Naghal of Kathmandu was established in 1965 by followers of Theravada Buddhism to propagate its tenets. It has 20 lifetime ordained nuns (anagarikas) living there, who conduct Buddha Puja and Dharma Desana (preaching Dharma) five days a month. On special occasions, such as during Gunla (a month-long festival in July/August), pujas are held daily. It also runs the Dharmakriti Sikshya Sadan to impart moral education to preschoolers. Myanmar´s Aung San Suu Kyi was once a student at the Vihar for three months.
Well, these are some of the more fascinating Buddhist pilgrimage sites around Nepal, and one daresay, for Buddhist pilgrims from around the world, these are must-visit places when on a pilgrimage tour here.
‘Namaste’, a Most Gracious Greeting
‘Namaste’, the customary form of greeting in Nepal, is one of the most humble, respectful, and gracious forms of greeting found anywhere around the world.
The traditional Nepali greeting of putting palms together and saying “Namaste” has taken on a new dimension.
Ever since it was disclosed that one of the precautions against being infected with swine flu was to avoid shaking hands, I have made it a point to avoid shaking anybody’s hand. That’s also because it is being increasingly accepted that it’s best not to be too touchy-touchy if you want to avoid getting any sort of germs transferred. Nowadays, the big talk is about the importance of hand-washing, especially in this part of the world, where the hands are used for everything. So, the traditional Nepali greeting of putting both palms together and saying ‘Namaste’ has taken on a new dimension.
Namaste Meaning
Not that ‘Namaste’ was any less important, and any less significant, at any other point in time. It has always been one of the gentlest, and politest, forms of greeting anybody. It’s elegant, too. In fact, the meaning of the word itself says a lot about the culture here. ‘Namaste’ is a word derived from the ancient Sanskrit script, according to which it means, ‘I bow to the divine in you’. In a country where the culture dictates that guests are to be regarded as gods, it is apt that our greeting should be in sync with that dictum.
When you are traveling to Nepal, you’ll probably first experience this greeting when boarding your plane, when the pretty air hostess welcomes with a warm smile and a graceful ‘Namaste’. You’ll probably return the greeting similarly, and continue to repeat the process at different times during your stay here. You can’t help it, since it’s the kind of greeting that calls for an equally gracious response, and none is more gracious than a ‘Namaste’! Anyway, aside from that, it’s a fine way to start absorbing some of the ancient culture of Nepal. A ‘Namaste’, accompanied with a smile, will take you miles. At the least, it will endear you to the locals you come across, and make you more welcome anywhere you go. A proper ‘Namaste’ can unlock many doors, and open hearts, too. So, go ahead, practice a couple of ‘Namaste’s’ even before you embark on your journey to this Himalayan country.
A ‘Dhanyabad’ (thank you) accompanied by a ‘Namaste’ gesture is sure to be pretty well appreciated.
Leave the strong and hearty handshake behind, although nowadays, you’ll meet plenty of folks out here who’ll prefer to push their hand forward to receive one. A sign of the times, but all said and done, they’ll still be likely to give you a ‘Namaste’ before doing so. So deeply ingrained are Nepalis in the culture of their land. A ‘Namaste’ is not only used for greeting and welcoming, it’s also used for farewells, and for demonstrating your gratitude too. A ‘Dhanyabad’ (thank you) accompanied by a ‘Namaste’ gesture is sure to be pretty well appreciated. An all-in-one-greeting, that’s what a ‘Namaste’ is. Whatever the case may be—greeting, welcoming, goodbye, or demonstrating thanks—one cannot go wrong with a ‘Namaste’ since it is such a humble gesture that anybody will appreciate it heartily.
What’s the proper way of doing a ‘Namaste’, you may ask? Well, here’s what you do—first you bring your hands together, the palms pressed against each other; then you place them just below your chin; now, slightly bowing your head, you bring a gentle smile to your lips (and your eyes, too, for that matter), and say, ‘Namaste’ in a polite voice. Some people have their eyes downcast when doing so, while some look into your eyes; it doesn’t matter all that much what you do.
Your humility-signifying folded hands, the warm smile on your face, well, that’s more than enough to convey your warmth and respect for the one you are saying ‘Namaste’ to.
Yes, in the final analysis, that’s what a ‘Namaste’ signifies—respect. Respect for the god in others, respect for their inherent goodness. And, humility, that’s what the person saying ‘Namaste’ is displaying. Well, anybody would want to reciprocate such beautiful feelings, wouldn’t you say? How do you do that? By doing likewise, of course, which means giving an equally heartfelt ‘Namaste’ in return.
This trek is specially designed to reach the Everest Base Camp including Kala Pattar which is the best view point to view the sunrise over the high Himalayas including the Mt. Everest. This trek requires 13 days.
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