Chitwan National Park, the Real thing

I had the opportunity to visit Disney World’s Animal Kingdom recently in Orlando, Florida, United States of America. The park has a lot of attractions spread out in various sections, viz Africa, Asia, Discovery Island, and Dinoland U.S.A. I began by going on the Kilimanjaro Safari Ride in the Africa section. I had to wait a pretty long time (about an hour or so) to board the ride, a train of wooden seats pulled by an ancient looking but sturdy truck. Almost immediately after we started off, we began to see wild animals, such as different types of deer, hippopotamuses, rhinoceroses, giraffes, zebras, elephants, crocodiles, etc., as well as a couple of lions resting majestically on a rocky outcrop. But, more than the animals, it was the track we were riding on that was really interesting. 

The track has presumably been made to look and feel like a genuine jungle track in Africa, with parts of it being water logged, and more than a few bumps along the way. The lady driver also served as the guide, giving a running commentary that was pretty informative and fascinating. The site is designed as a lush African savannah, with plenty of long grass and scattered trees. One tree, in particular, stood out from the rest: the Baobab, which is also called the upside-down tree because the branches, when bare of leaves, look like roots sticking up into the air. The ride took around half-an-hour, and was a good way to start the Animal Kingdom adventure. 

Now, here, I would like to compare this with our own jungle safari in Chitwan National Park in Chitwan, Narayani, Nepal. I have also taken that trip, and let me tell you, it was one of the best experiences of my life. Doubtless, unlike in in Animal Kingdom, where you get to see more animals, you get to see less wildlife in Chitwan. That’s because Chitwan’s wildlife is really in the wild, while Animal Kingdom is a well-designed and conceptualized park with wildlife in enclosures, cleverly concealed, to give the impression that they are in the wild. One cannot but be appreciative of the designers’ ingenuity. However, nothing can make up for going around real jungle tracks on top of a big elephant, as I did in Chitwan. Let me say this: the Chitwan safari is the real thing, while the Animal Kingdom thing is an enjoyable sojourn around a creatively designed wildlife park.

Definitely, the real thing has to be more thrilling. Riding a truck pales in comparison to riding an elephant that trudges onwards heavily on the narrow paths, and up and down muddy river banks, demonstrating fantastic balance; another thing is, you never know when you’ll be seeing some of the 700 species of exotic wildlife (68 of which are mammals), especially the magnificent royal Bengal tiger, the endangered one-horned rhino, and the rare snout-nosed gharials, a smaller, and much rarer, cousin of the crocodile. (By the way, some of the crocs in Animal Kingdom were pretty huge, fearsome creatures.) You’ll have to be indeed very lucky in Chitwan National Park to spot animals like leopard, sloth bear, wild boar, flying squirrel, smooth coated otter, honey badger, Bengal fox, striped hyena, golden jackal, jungle cat, civet, porcupine, and other such animals that are quite shy of public attention. 

As you travel deeper into the lush jungle, keeping a sharp lookout from your perch on top of the massive elephant, you begin to spot quite a few deer, and many varieties of birds (there are supposed to be almost 600 species inside the park). The flora also is pretty impressive; the jungle is thick with densely-leaved trees, and many a time your elephant will be making its way forcefully through thick shrubs and tall grass on paths unseen to you. It’s all a very exciting affair, the tall grass, known as elephant grass, may be hiding a fierce tiger or two; this is never far from your mind. At some points, your mahout (the elephant driver) will probably ask you to keep dead quiet, since he’s spotted some tiger tracks on the path, or fresh elephant dung that shows that there are wild elephants nearby. Your heart will start thumping, and you’ll keep quiet, I promise you!   

A trip around the jungle also includes a ride on a dugout canoe on the Narayani River that meanders through the large 360 sq km park that was established in 1973 and subsequently designated a UNESCO world heritage site in 1984. The canoes are small things, riding along very close to the river surface, and as you ride onwards, you may be lucky to see some snout-nosed gharials sunning on the banks. The average adult gharial is only 11 to 15 ft in size and has extremely long, thin jaws. The male has a distinctive boss at the end of the snout. You’ll also get to see the gharial breeding center inside the park, where you’ll learn about efforts to save this critically endangered animal from extinction. 

Oh yes, the Chitwan National Park in Chitwan, Nepal, is the real thing as far as a thrilling adventure in the wild is concerned. An experience that is sure to bring excitement into your life. And, yes, it must be noted that there is really nothing to rival a tall glass of ice cold beer after an exciting ride around the hot and humid jungle. Heavenly pleasure, indeed! 

P.S. I’ll be describing the Everest Expedition in Disney World in the coming blog. It’s famous as the Everest Ride, and it’s thrilling to the extreme.

World’s Highest Marathon

The 14th Edition of the Tenzing Hillary Everest Marathon was held on May 29 this year. The first such marathon was organized in May 19, 2003, to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the first successful ascent of Mt. Everest by Tenzing Norgay Sherpa and Edmund Hillary in 1953. The next edition is scheduled for May 29, 2017. 

This year, the first three places of the full marathon were won by Bed Bahadur Sunuwar, Bhim Bhadur Gurung, and Suman Kulung. There were 146 runners participating. The half marathon was won by Tenzing Christopher Dolmans of Holland, while the 60 kilometer ultra marathon was won by Tirtha Bahadur Tamang. 

The Tenzing Hillary Everest Marathon is a unique event, organized at the foot of the world’s highest peak, Mount Everest. It starts at Gorakshep (5,184 m) and ends at Namche Bazaar (3,446 m), thus it is the highest marathon in the world. The highest elevation of the race is at Kalapattha (5,545 m). The rough terrain of the high Himalayas adds to the rigors of running at such high altitudes. 

Participants are advised to be in Nepal three weeks before the start of the race, so that they get enough time for acclimatization to the high altitudes. Even though the marathon is mostly downhill, there are two steep uphill sections that can challenge the fittest runner, and the chances of there being snow and ice on the upper part are high, so participants should have some knowledge and experience of trekking at high altitudes. 

The full marathon is 42.195 km long. A half-marathon is 21 km long, and the ultra marathon is 60 kilometers. The marathon runs through some of the highest glaciers and moraines in the world for a stretch of about 10-15 km, and across the historical route to Everest taken by Hillary and Tenzing in 1953. 

Marathoners will come across monasteries, chortens, suspension bridges, and of course, jaw dropping landscape that includes beautiful natural scenery, rhododendron forests, and orchid groves. The rhododendron is the national flower of Nepal. They bloom from early March till April and May, so you may be lucky to see entire hills of red. What’s more, the trail meanders along pristine Sherpa villages, such as Lobuje, Pheriche, Dingboche, Thyangboche, Khumjung, Khunde, and Namche Bazaar. 

Organizers generally plan a three-week itinerary that includes sightseeing in Kathmandu Valley, and a trek at high altitude, which ensures that all participants are adequately acclimatized. They could also combine all this with a climb of Island Peak (6,189 m). 

Kali’s Valley

The black river under the brooding sky, gushing its way mightily from far off Muktinath, and cutting its way through Baglung district, seemed to be holding many a black secret. The heavy black clouds, the black silt and sand, and the blackness of the Kaligandaki River reminded one of black hearts, black promises, and black death.

However, the abundant green mountains encasing the immediate vicinity managed to salvage some of the foreboding picture. There were some gold diggers on the banks, as hopeful as the Californian gold diggers of the 1800s, and as dirty. Gold and copper and fossils were to be found in the deep confines of the Kaligandaki. But, if one looked into its black viscera, one got the eerie feeling that the murky depths must be hiding many black and mysterious secrets. 

As the bus rolled along the sides of the Kaligandaki, the big green and brown rocky mountains appeared to be desperately seeking our attention as well. Nevertheless, for the duration of the journey that the smooth road paralleled the black river, one’s attention was completely absorbed by it. And why not? For this is the valley ruled by the mysterious Kaligandaki. 

It was certainly not so before Kaligandaki had come into view. For a major part of the 72-km journey from Pokhara to Baglung, picturesque scenes of burbling brooks, scattered white frothy waterfalls, lush greenery, high hills, and compact and picture postcard villages constantly brought out sighs of wonder from the soul. Often, one had to forcefully remind oneself that this magnificence of nature’s bounty was in Nepal, and not in some exotic foreign locale.

The soul had already been stirred the night before in Pokhara, when a full two hours had been given to gazing at the gentle and serene Fewa Tal. I had not been able to pull myself away until the last boats had come ashore, their bellies disgorging sated nature lovers, and the lights had started to twinkle in far away hills.

The soul had been so stirred that I had taken the five-kilometer walk from Baidam in Lakeside to Mahendrapul in town. My decision to do so was proven to be devastatingly wise when I came across all sorts of lovely resting houses (calling them simply hotels would be doing them injustice), and equally lovely eating places (again, not restaurants, for the same reason), with their designer lights and manicured gardens, all of which I would probably have missed if I had taken a taxi. The lovelier ones were nestled in tiny gardens in the side streets. 

Baidam and Pardi in Lakeside reminded me at once of a bride in all her bridal finery, glowing and expectant, awaiting the arrival of the groom’s procession. Pray she is not disappointed. The atmosphere was not exactly one of joy, however, the season still not having taken off. 

Dhulikhel, a Most Refreshing Break

In addition to superb mountain scenery, a varied ecology, and diverse cultures, Nepal also has some really fine resorts in some charming locations. You don’t have to go far from the capital to spend a few days at such a resort; just take the 45-minute drive to Dhulikhel along the Arniko Highway. This pretty town is an ancient settlement that was once an important trading center on the commercial route between Nepal and Tibet. 

Dhulikhel has lush mountains, picturesque terraced fields, agreeable weather, and spectacular views of the Himalayan peaks. Not to mention, some wonderful resorts. From its location on a lofty hill, you’ll see serene rivers flowing down to the valley below, and because of the verdant forest to the east, the area is appealing throughout the year. The wide expanse of green fields all around adds allure to Dhulikhel, and the panoramic views of the Himalayas attracts hundreds of thousands of tourists every year. 

Dhulikhel is an ideal gateway from the hustle and bustle of city life. From its many vantage points, you can feast your eyes on the wonderful sight of over 20 regal Himalayan peaks, including Lhotse (8,516 m), Annapurna (8,091 m), Ganesh Himal (7,429 m), Langtang (7,234 m), Gaurishanker (7,134 m), and Phuribichyachu (6,637 m). Also, while in Dhulikhel, have the unforgettable experience of one of the loveliest sunrises in the world. Kali Temple, located at the top of the southeast hill, is the best place to see it from. 

And, you don’t need to miss out on any of the amenities of modern life that you are used to, because the town has some 24 world class resorts catering to all types of tourists. Many have Newari architectural elements; this is because Dhulikhel is inhabited mainly by Newars, a community known for its artistic, architectural, and craftsmanship skills. The intricately carved woodene doors and windows at some of the resorts should catch your attention. 

Dhulikhel is also strong on culture. There are quite a few temples that are testimony to the aforementioned skills of the inhabitants. Two of the landmarks here are the Harisiddhi Temple and Narayan Temple in the main square. Another popular temple, Bhagwati Mandir, is located at the northwest part of the town, from where the view of the surrounding mountain scenery is spectacular. The Gaukhureshwor Mahadev Temple is located about a 20-minute walk to the east of the town, while the Bhagwati (Kali) Temple is a half-hour uphill trek. 

Religion plays an important role at every stage in people’s lives, and functions like nwaran, annaprasasan, e:hi, ba:ra, bratabandh, bibah, janku, etc. are popular celebrations marking such stages like birth, coming of age, marriage, old age, etc.  They are socially significant and very enjoyable occasions. Dashain, Tihar, Gai Jatra, Bisket Jatra, and Nav Durga Jatra are the major festivals here.  

Nagarkot, Nature at its Best

Most visitors go gaga over the lovely scenery around Kathmandu Valley, and their appreciation becomes all the more pronounced when traveling to Nagarkot (2,100 m), and spending a night or two there. Nagarkot is a mere 32-km east of the capital. As the road starts climbing from Bhaktapur, you’ll surely be in for a thrilling ride. It’s a lovely drive through verdant hillside forests, but it can also be a bit scary at times, especially when a bus is coming your way, hogging most of the narrow road. Still, all said and done, you’ll likely be exclaiming, “This is it. This is what I came to Nepal for!” You might well come back with the fond wish that you could have a personal retreat there, so wonderful are the surroundings.

On reaching Nagarkot, you are assured of spectacular panoramic views of majestic ice-capped Himalayan peaks. There are many attractive resorts, some of them located on hilltops, their backdrops being rolling hills that change color with the distance. Nagarkot gets a lot of visitors every day because of its proximity to Bhaktapur and Kathmandu, and also because of the many amenities available there. In case you are the sort looking for a more secluded retreat, you could go hiking on fine isolated trails that will take you across quiet villages where you’ll meet simple village folk going about the same everyday tasks as they have done for ages. In other words, you’ll find the lifestyle pretty laidback, and perhaps that should be to your liking.

You have the option of choosing from quite a few back tracks around Nagarkot, all of which give you the opportunity to experience rural life up close. For example, one trail takes you to a place called Telkot, a matter of a few kilometers only, but you’ll be surprised at how different it is from the touristy Nagarkot. From tranquil Telkot, you can walk to the nearby dam, or to Changunarayan village, which is some distance further. There’s a lookout point in Telkot from where the views are, of course, just splendid. The sunset from here, the gradual fading of colors in the sky from orange to blue, is a special treat. Far below, dark green pines and brown terracotta homes mesh together in an artistic tapestry.  Another pleasant trek, the one going to the Muhan waterfalls, should take one hour or so. The trail goes up and down steep slopes and through lovely forests. On the way you’ll come across some nice picnic spots, meaning, you can hike at your own pace, taking as many breaks as you want to enjoy the beautiful country scenery. 

Hiking is no doubt the most popular way to explore the countryside, but you can also go mountain biking, since the trails make for excellent biking tracks. When driving up to Nagarkot, you’ll probably come across some mountain-biking enthusiasts making their way uphill to Nagarkot from Kathmandu (4-5 hours). Such bikers often ride along the back trails around Nagarkot to secluded villages and return via stone-back roads to Kathmandu. Oh yes, Nagarkot has plenty to keep you refreshingly occupied for a few days, and there’s always those lovely resorts to relax in between all the hiking and the biking. Stay a night or two, because you don’t want to miss the sunrise, the early morning sky changing its hues from black to purple to different shades of red and orange behind the magnificent Himalayan peaks. It’s something else altogether! 

Pokhara, a Paradise on Earth

In May 2002, Junko Tabei, the first woman to summit Mount Everest (May 16, 1975) inaugurated the soft opening of the International Mountaineering Museum (IMM) in Pokhara along with Appa Sherpa (who had by then climbed Everest a dozen times). The museum complex, which covers an area of around five hectares, is themed as ‘Man, Mountain, and Mountain Activities’. It consists of the Mountain People Gallery (exhibiting culture and lifestyle of mountain people); Mountain Gallery (exhibiting geological facts about the origin of world mountain systems); Mountain Activities Gallery (chronicling historical ascents, explorations, and trekking exploits); Associates' Gallery (highlighting INGO and NGO activities in mountain areas); Library; and Audio Visual Hall. The museum is no doubt a grand addition to the other charms of the “City of the Lakes”.

Charms that include the serene Fewa Tal, the dark and dank Mahendra Gufa, and Devi’s Falls. Fewa Tal is a large-sized lake that’s really beautiful to look at. Boat riding on the lake is a great pleasure; it’s a lot of exercise as well, what with all the paddling. However, paddle to the other side, and you’ll find a row of nice eateries awaiting you with chilled beer and fried fish. The famous Bindabasini Temple on the lake is also worth a visit. Entering the dark depths of Mahendra Gufa, a cave in the mountainside, can be quite a thrilling experience, especially as the dim lights along the walls inside may shut down suddenly sometimes. Thrilling, what? As for Devi Falls with its cascading waterfalls, the closer you get to it (and you can get quite close), the more terrifying it becomes. 

Actually, all said and done, it has to be admitted that Pokhara doesn’t have too many of such landmarks. Yet, this lovely city is by far the most favored destination for many tourists from around the country, and around the globe. The reason it is so is because of its fabulous scenic beauty. This is the one unique selling point of Pokhara that few other cities can rival. The early morning sight of sunlight glinting off the face of Machhapuchchhre Himal (Fishtail Mountain), which towers over the city, is something that is sure to give a fantastic start to your day, every day. Another thing about Pokhara that sets it apart from the pack is the traditional stone architecture of the place which gives a distinct identity to the city. All this makes Pokhara a city that inspires even the laziest to be out and about, whether hiking, biking, or boating. It’s a city for the adventurous at heart. And, really, who wouldn’t be in such a setting? 

Talking about adventure, you can look forward to some great adventure activities like paragliding, parasailing, and ultra flight, besides both short and long treks around the area, and boating to your heart’s content on the lovely Fewa Tal. In fact, one of the country’s most popular paragliding sites is here in a hill called Sarangkot (1,592 m). Need it be said that soaring high above the city is an experience you are not likely to forget in your lifetime? It’s all pretty much of an adrenaline rush. And, to help you relax and rejuvenate, Pokhara has plenty of hotels and restaurants suitable for both high-end and budget travelers, many of which are situated on the famous Lakeside area. There’s no better way to wind down after a hectic day of adventure than by taking a leisurely stroll down Lakeside, and then sitting down at one of the many restaurants with a refreshing bottle of beer in hand.    

Pokhara has much to offer, that’s for sure, and new experiences for you to try your hand out on. So, welcome to Pokhara, welcome to adventure. 

Asian Safari Destination Nepal

Nepal’s amazing biodiversity, on account of the fact that the elevation ranges from 70 meters above sea level in the Terai to 8,848 meters (Mt. Everest), and that this range is within less than 400 kilometers distance, assures a wealth of different fauna within areas that aren’t very far from each other. 

Nepal is rich in bird species, with Shivpuri, Pokhara, Chitwan, Lumbini, and Koshi Tappu being the prime locations to view more than 870 species of birds. Koshi Tappu, the first Ramsar (wetland) site to be developed in the country, is a birdwatcher’s paradise, and on a two-week tour, you may see a many as 300 species. Along with the wetlands, the Sapta Koshi River provides refuge for many migratory birds and waterfowls, including the elegant white Ibis. 

Nepal has around 20 globally endangered bird species, which include the lesser Adjutant Storshoi, but at the same time, specie like the barn owl, which is in the danger list in many countries due to rampant use of harmful chemicals, is pretty safe here. Also safe is the Eurasian large owl. However, the Terai’s white rumped vulture is not safe. Many have died because of indiscriminate use of the pain-killer Diclofenac Sodium (which has a toxic effect on the kidneys) on livestock, the carcasses of which vultures gorge on.

The Eurasian Griffon, black kite (of Mustang), and the Lammergeuer (an eagle with a three-meter wing span that soars over the Himalayan valley and is known as the protector of the Himalayas), are particularly interesting bird species found in Nepal. The Sarus crane of Lumbini, among the large variety of cranes, and tallest of flying birds, is believed to be the harbinger of bumper harvests and a happy conjugal life. During the second week of October, one may see the Demoiselle crane (karyang kurung), a migratory bird that travels from Dar E Salaam, over the Himalayas, and on to Gujarat and Rajasthan. As for the butterfly; experts state that Nepal has about 650 species. It’s an amazing number or such a small country. 

Coming to four legged creatures, the Suklaphanta Reserve has the largest herd of swamp deer (Bara Singhe), while other deer like chital and hog deer are found aplenty throughout the country. The Blue Bull, largest antelope of the sub continent is also found in Nepal, as is found the fierce arna (ancestors of the domestic buffaloes) although they number only a few hundreds, if that. The Gaur bison, the world’s biggest wild cattle, is to be found in the Churiya hills, although many have succumbed to foot and mouth disease. 

Regarding the endangered one-horned rhino, although the scenario was bleak during the 1950s and 1960s, conservation efforts have paid good dividends, and now there is quite a good growth in their number. In addition to this rare species of wildlife, the presence of royal Bengla tigers, sloth bear, Himalayan black bear, brown bear, wild boar, common leopard, clouded leopard, snow leopard, red pandas, jharal (himalayan mountain goat), bharal (blue sheep), etc. justify Nepal’s claim as an Asian safari destination. 

Trek to Ghalegaun Village

The Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) trek is a very popular trek; most trekkers put it right up there with the best in the world. However, this time around, let’s take the route northwest of the main ABC trek trail, and visit a lovely little village called Ghalegaun (2,016 m). This short trek is also very popular, especially for those pressed for time, since you can do it in a matter of just three to four days.

It all begins by driving down from Kathmandu to a bustling town called Besisahar; should take around six to seven hours. From there, the trail goes alongside the Marsyangdi River to Khudi (2,493 m), and then meanders along the Khudi River, before climbing steeply for four to five hours. Once you are at the top, you’ll get to see awesome sunsets and sunrises over the lofty Annapurna and Manaslu ranges. That aside, you’ll be coming across lovely waterfalls on the way, and walking across swinging suspension bridges, besides hiking through some very charming villages that are made all the more picturesque by the surrounding terraced paddy fields, bamboo groves, and rhododendron forests.

It will take you some seven hours to reach Ghalegaun from Khudi, but what a seven hours it’s going to be! Stunning views of ice-capped Himalayan peaks will certainly mesmerize you. And, these are really tall peaks, such as, Annapurna I (8,091m), Annapurna II (7,939 m), Annapurna IV (7,525 m), Bouddha Himal (6,974 m), Himalchuli (6,747 m), and Machhapuchchhre (6,693 m). Just so you know, Annapurna I is the 10th highest peak in the world. 

Ghalegaun, snuggled in the midst of green hills and surrounded by majestic Himalayan peaks, is home to the Gurungs, who have earned name and fame for their martial prowess. They are one of the major ethnicities that go to make the fearsome Gurkhas. However, away from the battlefield, they are some of the most hospitable, polite, jocular, and friendly people you’ll find anywhere. This, you’ll see for yourself when you are in Ghalegaun, more so, because you’ll be most probably staying in a homestay, meaning that you’ll be living with a local family in their home, and sharing meals and experiences. 

The homestay arrangements have been fine tuned in Ghalegaun, whereby, even if you are living with a family, you are assured of complete privacy and most modern amenities. A walk through the village in the evening takes you along cobblestoned paths between traditionally made houses huddled close together. You’ll get plenty of people to talk to you, and dodging lots of chickens on the way. A night’s stay is often rewarded with a cultural program, where you’ll be treated to traditional songs and dances performed with youthful vigor.

Back in your home, a nice dinner awaits you: customary dishes like dhindo (a porridge-like food made from a mixture of maize and wheat) and kukhura ko masu (chicken curry) with vegetable, spinach, pickle, and so on. You’ll also find the setting to be quite agreeable: sitting on the floor with the glow of the cooking fire providing light, and pleasant light-hearted conversation all around. You go to bed quite early. You don’t want to miss out on one of the primary highlights of your trek, that is, watching the fabulous sunrise over the lofty peaks, and to view these peaks in the early morning light when the view is the cleanest. So, at the crack of dawn, you’ll be up on the tower on the nearby hill with a hot mug of tea in your hand. Don’t blink now, because sunrise is an event that occurs without warning, and you’ll find the dark sky suffused with sunlight in an instant.  

Savor the moment; savor the feeling of tranquility that falls upon your senses as you watch the breaking of a new dawn. Soon enough, everything—the mountains, the valley, the rivers, Ghalegaun village—present themselves to your sight, all at their pristine best. It’s a fantastic experience. You’ll also see far-off Besisahar, from where you started your trek, so clear is the air, and thus, the view. After you have captured memories for a lifetime in your camera, you walk back to your home, where there’s some serious breakfast waiting for you. Again, delight in traditional Gurung fare like kodo ko sel (round shaped bread made of barley) and rajma ko tarkari (bean curry), along with plenty of steaming hot tea.

Having fortified yourself, you are ready to make a more thorough exploration of Ghalegaun, where you’ll discover ancient shrines and even a dhunge dhara (stone spout). On the hills around, you’ll come across grazing donkeys and horses. You’ll be delighted, no doubt, to know that the village also has a museum, where you can see traditional wear of the Gurungs, ancient and not so ancient tools used in agriculture, photographs of mud houses that once served as their homes, and so on. You will also be surprised to see a large sized tea garden that’s situated some distance away from the village. 

After your pleasant sojourn in this lovely village, you might want to extend your trek, to Ghanapokhara, which is a one-hour walk, and Bhujung (two-and-a-half-hours). The trail then goes uphill for some three hours to Khumre Danda (2,000 m), before descending to the Mandi River, and then to Pakhrikot (6 hours). From there, you walk to Thusmsikot and take a ride to Pokhara.

Conquering Everest

There are some dates in history that have become landmarks in the passage of time of our world. One such date is Friday, May 29, 1953. This was when man stepped for the first time atop the highest point on earth, Mount Everest (8,848 m), a.k.a. Sagarmatha, in Nepal. Actually, it was not one man, but two, Tenzing Sherpa, 39, and Edmund Hillary, 33, who have the credit, jointly, for being the first to conquer Everest. It was a long time in coming, since Everest had been identified as the highest peak on earth way back in 1852. 

In the six decades since (1953-2013), a total of 5099 ascents have been recorded, with 3144 climbers from 83 countries succeeding in achieving this singular feat, while 227 climbers perished during the expeditions. Successful climbers have included a fair number of women, along with a few physically challenged climbers, octogenarians, and teenagers. With the passage of time, climbing equipment and techniques have improved considerably, routes have been well defined, and conditions better understood and analyzed, with the result that critics have been forced to say that climbing Everest is no more the great challenge it once used to be.

So it is understandable that the Nepal government has issued a directive that anyone wishing to climb Everest will have to prove their experience in climbing high altitude mountains before attempting a summit of the highest peak in the world. The last couple of years have not been good years for climbing Everest, with a record number of deaths, and the devastating earthquake this year on April 25. A Japanese climber, aiming to be the first to summit this year after the earthquake, failed to do so, and had to abandon the ascent. 

Looking back again to history, there were some serious attempts made by the British to summit Everest since 1852. The eighth attempt, in 1953, was made by a Royal Geographical Society Alpine Club team led by John Hunt. The expedition included 13 climbers and 35 Sherpa guides, and 350 porters to carry 18 tons of food and climbing equipment. On May 26, 1953, Tom Bourdillon and Charles Evans almost reached the peak, but had to turn back just 300 feet short of the summit due to the failure of one of their oxygen masks. Three days later, Tenzing and Hillary achieved the feat, becoming the first two to conquer Everest. 

On May 23, 1956, Swiss climbers Ernst Schmied and Juerge Marmet posted their names in history as the third and fourth summiteers to climb Everest, and on May 25, 1960, three Chinese mountaineers, Wang Fu Chou, Konbu, and Chu Ying Hua, reached the summit from its more difficult northern side for the first time. Nawang Gombu of India, the 10th summitteer to conquer Everest, was the first man to do it twice, in 1963 and 1965. In 1973, Sambhu Tamang, 18, became the youngest climber to summit Everest, and in 1978, Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler became the first to do so without the use of bottled oxygen. 

On May 16, 1975, Junko Tabei of Japan became the first woman to reach the summit, and in April 22, 1993, Pasang Lhamu Sherpa became the first Nepali woman to reach top of the world, but tragically, she died on the way down. In 2000, Pemba Doma Sherpa became the first Nepali woman to climb Everest via its north face, and she went on to climb it a record six times, the last one in 2007. Unfortunately, she lost her life when she fell from a height of 8,000 m while climbing Lhotse later. The first woman to climb Everest from both sides is Maya Sherpa, while Ming Kipa Sherpa became the world’s youngest woman to conquer Everest, on May 24, 2003, at the age of fifteen. Her 31-year-old sister, Lhakpa Chiri, who had already summitted in 2001, accompanied her. On May 30, 2005, Moni Mulepati, 24, became the first non-Sherpa Nepali woman to climb Everest. InMay 2008, the ‘First Inclusive Women Sagarmatha Expedition 2008 Spring’ (Sushmita Maskey, Maya Gurung, Usha Bisht, Chunu Shrestha, Shailee Basnet, Pemadiki Sherpa, Nawang Phutti Sherpa, Nimdoma Sherpa, and Asha Kumari Singh Chaudhary).succeeded in reaching the summit. And, Churrim Sherpa became the first woman to summit Everest twice within a single season (May 12 and 19, 2012). 

Well, it’s been a long time since that day man first stepped on the highest point on earth, and the pioneers, Tenzing Norgay Sherpa and Edmund Hillary, have already passed away (on May 9, 1986, at 72, and in 2008 at 88, respectively), but Everest still holds a formidable challenge to men and women everywhere, notwithstanding modern developments in climbing.

Many Good Reasons for Visiting Tansen

Visitors to Nepal become familiar with a water-bearing snout-nosed bronze vessel called a karuwa sooner rather than later. It is a ubiquitous presence in any restaurant claiming to be ethnic (plenty of these in the capital, Kathmandu); on display as decoratives in lobbies and rooms of hotels; on the shelves of tasteful drawing rooms; in showcases in souvenir shops; and in most Nepalis’ homes. The karuwa is not only a utilitarian utensil for pouring water, but a work of art in itself, with lovely curves and beautiful etchings. Yes, you’ll come across a karuwa somewhere or the other during your visit to Nepal. And, if you want to see the biggest karuwa in the country, and no doubt in the world, you’ll have to go to a lovely little town called Tansen in Palpa district of western Nepal. 

This town is akin to a hill station, with pleasant weather all year around, and with the typical characteristics of any town located in the hills of Nepal. That is to say, you’ll find lots of winding stone-paved lanes and alleys and stone steps meandering through the town; a central market area where is held a ‘haat bazaar’ where people from adjoining hills villages converge to sell their produce once a week; hardy and smiling men and women living simple hardworking lives; and so on. You get the picture. And, yes, not to forget, beautiful scenery all around.

Well, while many things are similar among all towns and villages of the hills, there are also bound to be some unique characteristics, Tansen has quite a few, one of them being Taksar Tole. This is where the biggest karuwa in the world was born, specifically, in the ‘Palpali Karuwa Udyhog’, one of many such establishments in this site famous for manufacturing a plethora of bronze products used in the everyday life of various communities, and particularly more so of Newari households. While many such products are for common use (mostly in the kitchen), there are as many meant for religious purposes. You might like to know who made the biggest karuwa; well it was the work of Mr. Suresh Man Bajracharya, as skilled a metal-smith as any found in Taksar Tole.

When you go to Tansen, which is actually not far from Lumbini, the birthplace of the Buddha, you’ll of course be visiting this place. You’ll surely enjoy looking at the adept hands of the Newari metal-smiths at work, and of course you’ll buy a couple of bronze souvenirs, even if they may be a bit of a heavy purchase, in the literal sense. Other souvenirs you must also buy are clothing made out of Dhaka fabric, a fabric unique to Nepal that’s made in Tansen. It’s another thing that you have already become very familiar with, having seen it adorning numerous heads in the form of a Dhaka Nepali topi (cap) all over the country, more so in villages and more traditional parts of towns and cities. The immigration officer at the airport probably had one on. The Dhaka Nepali cap is one of the unique identifying features of Nepal and Nepalis; a national symbol, as evident from the fact that the President, the Prime Minister, ministers, etc. will never be seen without one. 

So, you see, there are already some very good reasons for visiting Tansen. You should also know that it is pretty historical, and the presence of a royal durbar (est. 1927) in the center of the town validates this claim. It was the capital of the Magar kingdom Tanahun, a powerful regional principality once upon a time (before the country was unified), and at no time was it more powerful than in the 16th century under King Mukunda Sen, when it nearly conquered even Kathmandu. Although so far from the principal Newari settlement of Kathmandu Valley, you’ll find plenty of Newars in Tansen, their forefathers having migrated from the Valley sometime in the 18th century, seeking their fortune. . 

In more recent times, Tansen was a prime target for the Maoists during their 10-year insurgency (1996-2006), at the fag end of which, they set fire to the historic royal palace. Conservationists were pretty upset, it must be said, but with funds arranged from here and there, they set about restoring this monument to history. So, when you are in Tansen, you’ll no doubt take a tour of the palace. It’s only a five-minute walk from Taksar Tole to the market square known as Sitalpati where the place is located. The square around the palace is a pretty interesting place to laze around on a sunny afternoon. You’ll come cross villagers selling dried river fish and pure ghee (clarified butter) that are must buys for most domestic tourists.

Some places of interest around Tansen are also worth visiting. There’s a hilltop site called Srinagar Danda nearby from where the best views are to be had, including panoramic ones of Himalaya peaks like Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, Kanjiroba, Mansiri, Macchapuchre, Ganesh Himal, and Langtang. Then there’s Ranighat, a Rana-period palace situated on the bank of the Kaligandaki River, and a sacred site called Rid Bazaar at the confluence of the Kalingandaki and Ridi Rivers that sees hordes of pilgrims around mid January every year when the Maghe Sankranti festival is held. As a matter of interest, about one mile east of the town center is the 160-bed United Mission Hospital that was established way back in 1954, the first project in the country of the United Mission to Nepal (UMN), a missionary organization of the Christian faith.  

As said before, there are indeed many good reasons for visiting Tansen.

Sindhupalchok Sojourn

This year, Nepal has been in the world headlines for a pretty bad reason—the destructive 7.8 M earthquake of April 25, 2015, that left thousands dead and hundreds of thousands homeless, besides destroying precious heritage monuments, quite a few of which were situated in world heritage monument zones. More than three months later, the news is that all of the zones have been opened to the public, and that rebuilding is going on in a big way in all the earthquake affected districts.

Some 14 of the country’s 75 districts, all in the central region in the proximity of Kathmandu valley, were the ones to bear the most severe brunt of the catastrophic quake. Among these, too, it is the Sindhupalchok district that has witnessed the most devastation, both in terms of lives and property. The fact that it is a mere 85 km to the north-east of Kathmandu Valley makes the catastrophic situation there all the more real to the capital dwellers, which means, also, the government as well as numerous national and international NGOs based in Kathmandu. 

Relief efforts were quick to reach the district, and now reconstruction is being undertaken with a view to at least provide some sort of temporary shelter to the homeless to protect them from the elements, particularly the monsoon rains. No doubt, it will take some time before some semblance of normalcy returns to the area, but let’s hope it does sooner rather than later, because this district has so many possibilities for tourists looking out for adventure and excitement when in Nepal. Sindhupalchok has some great treks on offer, and spectacular scenery and interesting culture. 

The 2,542 sq km district is surrounded by Nuwakot, Kathmandu, Kavre, Rasuwa, and Dolakha districts, as well as by China (Tibet), which add to the diversity of the region. While Chautara, its district headquarters, is a bustling municipality, places like Helambu, Tatopani, Bhairav Kunda, Panch Pokhari, Palanchok Bhagwati, etc. are attractive tourist destinations, with most of them having religious significance. 

Helambu is home to the Hyolmo (Yolmo) people, who are also sometimes referred to as the Helambu Sherpas, to differentiate them from the Sherpas of Solukhumbu, and is famous for its apples, as well as for its lovely monasteries. The Helambu Trek is quite popular with tourists without the luxury of too much time to spend in Nepal. The starting point is generally Sundarijal, which you can reach by bus from Boudhanath in Kathmandu. Nagarkot, Kakani, and Sankhu could be other starting points as well. The route goes from Sundarijal to Chisopani, Kutumsng, Tharepati, Tarkeghyang, Sermanthang, and Melamchi Pul, and you’ll be generally hiking for some five-six hours every day through beautiful scenery. 

Eastern Nepal for an Exhilarating Experience

I read in a newspaper recently that a committee had been formed to celebrate 2016 as Visit Eastern Nepal Year. That’s a great idea, and one that has been a long time in the coming, for eastern Nepal is full of great natural beauty and extremely hospitable people. Unlike the far-west, there is no far-east in the country, but the further east you go, the better is everything, including the weather. You get good rains here, and so the forests are verdant, the paddy fields are lush green, and the rolling tea estates are very pleasant to look at. 

While Ilam, where most of Nepal’s tea estates are, and Taplejung get a fair amount of tourists, there’s a district called Sankhuwasabha that is also pretty fetching, and where the best khukuris are made. Yes, the very same khukuris that the Gurkhas made so famous in the two Great Wars. The prima donna of eastern Nepal, however, is Kangchenjunga, which at 8,586 m, is the third highest peak in the world. It’s not only for its height that it is so well known, it is also one of the best looking mountains in the Himalayan range, equal to Machhapuchchhre of Pokhara in beauty. It borders India, and is the highlight of Darjeeling—a most iconic backdrop to the queen of hill stations. Another famous peak in this region is Jannu (or Kumbakarna), which is 7,710 meters tall, and which used to be once called “Mystery Peak”. 

Then, there is also the Makalu-Barun National Park here, established as an extension of Sagarmatha National Park (world’s highest national park) in 1992. It sprawls for some 1,500 km2 across Solukhumbu and Sankhuwasabha districts, and has Makalau (at 8,463 m, world’s 5th highest peak), Chamalangu (7,319 m), Baruntse (7,129 m), and Mera (6,654 m) within its precinct. This park has amazing elevation, with the Arun River valley (344-377 m) in the southeast arising to 8,463 m at the apex of Makalu. The park has many diverse species of fauna, including exotic ones like snow leopard, clouded leopard, red panda, Himalayan tahr, etc., with the Asian golden cat being one of the rarest. Plenty of bird species, too, including the rare rose-ringed parakeet, Blyth’s kingfisher, deep-blue kingfisher, blue-naped pitta, sultan tit, white-naped vuhina, and so on. 

Now, you can trek through this area on your way to Makalu base camp. Generally, you start off by taking a 40-minute flight from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar (457 m). From here, you take a one-hour drive to Khandbari (1,036 m), the district headquarter, from where your trekking adventure begins. Here is where you’ll find people making the best khukuris. After a halt for the night in a lodge or homestay, the next morning you begin walking to Chichilla (1,920 m), about a five-hour hike. There’s a place called Chhyankuti Chhyankuti on the way, 10 km to the north of Khandbari that has spectacular views all around, including that of the magnificent Himalayan peaks. At Chichilla, you get comfortable lodgings for the night. Come the dawn, and you are again on the trail, this time to Mude (2,060 m), which will require about 5-6 hours. Along the route, you’ll be treated to some really rugged mountain landscapes. 

After a night of rejuvenating sleep, you should be ready next day to take the 3-4 hour walk to Saduwa, which is in fact the last village before entering the Makalu-Barun National Park. Your hike will first take you steeply downhill, before again going steeply uphill. The next day, you trek to Tashigaon, stay in a teahouse, and enjoy the local culture. Your guides will usually allow you a day of rest and recuperation at Tashigaon. And, you will appreciate this, because the next day you walk up, up, and up for 6-8 hours to reach Khongma (3,400 m). Early the following morning, you go to Dobate, or Mombuk, (3,540 m), walking for some 4-5 hours. You got to start early so as to avoid landslides risks further in the day.  

The coming days, you’ll be first hiking to Yangle, or Nhe Kharka, (3, 750 m, 4-5 h), then to Langmale, or Shersong (4,600 m, 6 h), before finally reaching the Makalu base camp which is at a height of 4,800 meters. There’s a lovely glacial lake called Dudh Pokhari that will mesmerize you with its serene beauty. The return trip is along the same route, and you’ll be back in Khandbari in 5-6 days time from the base camp. There are some other routes on this trek as well, and it’s up to you which one you choose. However, no matter which route you opt for, it will be one of the most exhilarating times of your entire life, that much can be assured!  So, what say, do we now plan a trek in beautiful eastern Nepal?